Ferret54

IIRC this compressor uses a SWASH plate ( VARIABLE DISPLACEMENT, CONSTANT PRESSURE pumps ). There is no clutch. They move the angle of the swash plate to increase or decrease the freon pressure/flow thru the condenser or evaporator. Many newer cars are using this system.

I have had 2 timing belts break. a 98 DOHC Forester we bought for our daughter in college. On way from sale from owner, engine died. Got home and disassembled. Yeah broken belt. I did plan to take it apart for head gaskets, but this had me send them out for resurfacing and 6 valves. All on drivers side head. After that repair, she then had that for 6 more trouble free years. Also MY04 Forester, Going on interstate, engine just died. No loud sounds, dashboard just kit up. I had just replaced the timing belt about 20K earlier with about 130K on odometer. Had it towed home ( yes AAA and was 110 miles from home, slight charge ). similar to 98 .... 4 bent valves, all on drivers side again. Reason I THINK for failure, 5 speed has 'keeper' above crank sprocket, and I DO know SOMEONE made the clearance a little too tight thinking it would prevent it from jumping BETTER is car was pushed backward in gear. TOUGH LESSON TO LEARN. In any case, sent out heads for resurfacing and valve replacement. After rebuild I drove until 260K and then sold it. My $.02 and experiences. If it's a good car, and worth the $$$ to invest, I would. If not, look for a replacement and find someone mechanical to sell this to.

Possibly Neutral Switch. Had them go intermittent or bad, but my 5 speeds were NOT drive by wire, so would call out idle control solenoid. Just a thought since we can't see, touch or hear your car.

Is it a 5 speed? If so the Keeper above the crank shaft may have been mis adjusted ( saw this more than once ). If it was other than a Subaru belt, YES I have seen those fail also. Quite a few years ago even Gates went to a Cheap Thinner belt. The original coming off, even worn, felt sturdier than the Gates and others new going on. Had seen about a half dozen with broken belts. Sent heads out for valve replacement, Put back together with Subaru Water pump, pullies and belt and ran for MANY more miles.

It would be easier to ADD a relay, SPST. If you try to energize the installed relay, you will have to isolate it with a pair of diodes to avoid turning on other electrical items when you open the door. I have done similar with MANY of my Subaru's so I can operate the windows in ACC instead of just the ON key position. Connect the contact points to an ALWAYS on power source like the power window fuse or Circuit breaker, the other side to the power feed wire going to the power window switch. Then attach one side of the coil to your ALWAYS on you just used on the contact point and attach the other side of the coil to the door switch which will ground and energize the relay when the door is opened. This way there is NO feedback of power to any other devices when you open the door. These are the relays I used ....... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KH17YKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As far as I researched and newer systems control many functions, HVAC, and other options that they did away with the physical buttons now controlling via CAN bus. MAYBE 2016,17 or 18 depending on the model you can upgrade. For this I would go to Crutchfield and see what they suggest. Out son had a 2008 Lexus IS and wanted a radio with more OOMPH .... but the factory radio did a lot more and was not recommended to be replaced.

Of the 13 Subaru's i've owned, 8 were EJxxx engines. Mostly 5 speeds. I can't deny I replaced Head gaskets on every one of those. As well as Timing belts, water pumps, separated damper pulley etc. Still have a factory wrench to hold the damper pulley for removal. And replacing Clutches, broken clutch forks and Snout Kits for worn transmissions. Being a mechanic since my teens and soon to be 70, Labor was always cheap. I also understand why people stayed away from them because they were NOT mechanically inclined and these repairs become expensive very quickly. For this reason I also helped many neighbors who could not afford dealer or garage repairs. I REALLY Love my Subarus. They always started and got me through some bad weather and driving conditions. But recent purchases ( in the last 10 years ) brought the FB motor and CVT to ALL Subarus. And I was just relaying our experiences with these newer Subarus. But like politics, religion, oil discussions etc, to each their own. Ask 10 people and you will get 10 different answers. And everyone IS correct ...... for them.

Our daughter has the power tailgate on her 2016 because it's a Touring model. I personally don't like it. On the 2023 models it's standard on the Limited and Touring models. Also on the newer models, and update firmware 11" screens, when you start the car, the screen comes up with options including to DISABLE Start/Stop mode. Then goes to the regular 3 information display sections ( Top is widgets you pick like temp, date, MPG, miles to empty etc, Center is infotainment information including Navigation if ordered, music, apple carplay etc, and bottom is HVAC including dual zone temps etc ) there are buttons for individual temps, Defrost etc. Also some respond to voice commands to keep your eyes on the road. The Crosstrek we have on order does not offer power tailgate ( I'm glad, daughters drives me NUTS ), and I plan to turn off a lot of eyesight options ( can't turn off Forward Collision ) and enable each as I MAY get used to them. Or NOT AT ALL as my wife said when she drives the car,

I know others here don't like the FB engine or CVT, but our family has had good service from them. MY14 Impreza currently at 185K, other than replacing all 4 wheel bearings, has been trouble free. Our daughter has a 2016 Forester at 105K also trouble free. Currently have a 2024 Crosstrek on order, our 14th Subaru ..... I know first year for a new model .... but everything on it is NOT new to Subaru, but new to the Crosstrek, which never had that option before. Only NEW thing is on all 2024 and up Subaru's, Gen 4 Eyesight. Of Those 14.we had 2 that were not up to expectations. A 2002 Forester 5 speed, ate 8 front Oxygen sensors in the 1st year. It would backfire on deceleration and POP ..... CEL .... another Oxygen sensor. Subaru couldn't fix, so they gave me a deal on a 2004 Forester ..... Had that 10 trouble free years. Other was 2011 Outback, Our daughter was in Construction single lane in Pa during Covid 2020, Blew top off radiator. She couldn't pull over ( no place to and next exit 4 or 5 miles down the road. Engine was destroyed, more importantly she was OK. Other 11 gave us great service .... which is why I have bought Subaru's since 1978. My opinion and experiences ...... NEXT poster

Same as Intermotor HVAC Relay RY56 ...... and they are available as a replacement part.

When we had this code on our daughters 2001 Outback ( 2.5L ), it was 10 years old. No exhaust leaks. Tried rear Oxygen sensor, still P0420. So I purchased an extender. Had to drill out the center for the Oxygen sensor to fit, then installed it. Takes rear sensor out of the flow. No more P0420. It was still on the car when we sold it 2 years later.

Cables..... Manual had cables for Temp and Function ( Def, Dash, floor ). Auto had 2 14 or 16 pin connectors as well as motors for Temp and Function. Also blower motor on Manual had blower resistor, The Auto had Blower with speed control electronics on the base of the motor. Also different connectors. Edit... As I think of it, The X model was manual controls, The XS had Auto Controls. I had both ..... long ago

Probably a bad ( dead battery ) in one or more of your TPMS sensors in the tires. you need a TPMS tool to diagnose and bead breaker if you want to do your own repair. Or you can go to any tire store and have them do it for you. Cheaper than the dealer, I have replaced 2 in MY14 Impreza to date. Both last year. Just did oil change 172,500 on it today.

Also check for 14.2 volts at battery with engine running .... Could be alternator diode(s0 gone bad.

There are 2 parts to that actuator. The motor that moves the door, and a variable resistor to feed back how open the acutator is. Since you tried another panel ( controller ) and the motor moves when you apply power, then I would still replace the actuator as I suspect the variable resistor inside is defective. It's simply a slider on a carbon path that does wear out over time. Replaced many of these on all different makes of vehicles. They all seem to work the same, just with different controllers or panels.

Does this have manual heater controls? or Auto? ..... If it's the Auto controls, maybe the control or the cabin temp sensor is malfunctioning. Or maybe when failing, you could feel or check the temp of the supply and return hoses under the hood by the firewall to determine if hot water is flowing.... I know a shot in the dark.

Section 11 of your owners manual has show to syncronize the key fob after battery replacement. Here's a copy and paste, the symbols for lock and unlock did not copy. After the battery is replaced, the transmitter must be synchronized with the remote keyless entry system’s control unit. Press either the “ lock” or unlock“ ” button six times to synchronize the unit

Be SURE BOTH low beam elements in the headlights are good..I had a 2004 Forester for 11 years. and heading home from upstate NY one night I LOST my low beams. Fogs didn't work either. Turned out BOTH low beam elements were burned out in the headlights. I didn't notice when 1 was out, but when both went, Nothing. Came home with high beams before diagnosing problem. On those Subaru's, the foglight relay is triggered by the low beam and when both were out, the relay didn't close. Other thing that comes to mind is IIRC, there is a low beam fuse in the under hood fuse box. That may cause the same symptoms. Just remembered this morning, at a later date, sometimes the low beams flickered when I was switching from High to Low with the light stalk. It eventually went bad and I had to replace the stalk. Another culprit to consider. Easy and inexpensive to replace.

Is it a standard? I know the neutral switch on the M/T causes this error. Seen it many times in the past.

I agree with the diagnoses above, but don't forget the EGR ..... overlooked many times for multiple misfires. Sometimes stuck open all the time, other times very SLOW to close, so after engine warms up, you get the low rough idle condition as well as multiple misfires.

If this is a manual trans, I would suspect the neutral switch ..... YES Subaru stick shifts have a neutral switch. It tells the ECU to control the idle. I have had this on 3 previous Subarus with manual trans.

I 'played' with MY14 Impreza and came to the following conclusion. The oil level float/reed switch CLOSES ( grounds ) to turn the indicator ON. I unplugged mine and with the engine running touched a ground to the engine harness, the indicator came on AND stays on even after I removed the ground. I SUPPPOSE this is to keep the indicator ON and not just a quick flash when it first senses the oil low, maybe from low and a hard corner. Next key Off / On engine running, indicator was still OFF with the connector unplugged. Since mine seems to be operating correctly, I just replugged the connector. Hope this helps you .... If unplugged, you are fully relying on manually checking the level via the dipstick like we've done for so many years.

From the wiring section of the FSM, electrically it's a single wired reed switch with ground provided by one of the mounting bolts. What I don't know is it 'open' or 'closed' to keep the light off. Haven't had to cross that 'bridge' yet. But the single wire connector is easy to access. Look at front of engine just below the oil filter. You see the small single white connector with the wire to the sensor disappearing below the engine by the water pump. May be as simple as unplug it, OR ground it to overcome the sensor and light. Replacing this sensor alone, to me, is not enough to make me do that much work to extinguish a light cars never had for years. The Dipstick still works for me. Maybe if I was pulling the engine for another reason, THEN I would replace it. ...... us 'old' guys think alike ........ I'll be 70 soon..... and working around gas stations or for dealers off and on since I was 15.

I would HOPE you never have to replace the oil level switch as this was a many questioned part in early FB engines when the oil USAGE was high. There were some threads on other boards that suggested customers who used Non Synthetic oil could have CLOGGED or caused problems with the sensor, but I never saw one of those myself. I also have a 2014 Impreza and if you have to replace it, YES it does come out with 2 small bolts, Yes the dealer price is under $100, BUT to get to it is a nightmare. If you crawl under your jacked up car, look straight up beyond the oil drain plug. You will see it there bolted into the cast UPPER or Middle oil pan. However the motor mount is right in the way. And to get that out of the way, you have to remove the steering rack OR lift the engine out of the car to remove that motor mount. The FSM has you lift the engine a few inches AND remove the steerling rack. If this happened to me with an 8 year old car with 155K on it ( my car ) , I might just unplug or find a way AROUND the light coming on and just check the oil level monthly or during every long trip as we used to do before we had so many indicators. As I check tire pressure regularly because TPMS usually come on when pressure is too low. Guess I'm just an old time mechanic with old habits ...... Still have a dwell meter, vacuum gauge and other old still working tools ......

Front Cap 7.2 ft lbs ( 10Nm ) , Center and Rear 14.5 ft lbs ( 20 Nm )