Bad Brat84

As the former owner, I'll share some more history. The dist. is in the current position as it was rotated to the position at which the brat would run the best. The distributor has been out and checked for bearings, etc and everything looked good. It is super easy to check the timing so use a light to play with it some. What I found with it getting worse when warmed up is what you've noticed. It can be fully warmed up but until the heat get through all the engine it can run OK. If you turn it off, let it sit for like 10 mins and start it you can duplicate the problem easily. I honestly don't think it is internal to the carb as I played with the other carbs on the brat (the ones you have) and the problem was still there. In the for sale post you will notice someone commented about an air leak at the carb base and that was where I was focused but not successfully. If you want to play around some more on this try spraying something like starting fluid (or something less flammable) around the base area (after warmed up) and you will see a change in RPM. I looked at the throttle shaft area also. Maybe a small crack in the intake manifold? Try everything else you can though but here is a little more history for the others.

Every time I went to the Pull-N-Save I would look for some good ones. Maybe you can try something like that or find someone on here that has some spares or will get you some. Mine are gone.

If you replaced the gasket I'm sure you noticed how the coolant goes to the base of the carb so it would be possible to leak in to the manifold. Sounds like a lot though to come from that spot but I guess a vacuum condition could suck it in. I'm sure others that have blown the HG will have more to say.

I had a similiar problem with my brat. It ran fine but one day it started the same symptoms for no apparent reason. It was related to heat and a vacuum/air leak. It was at the base of the carb at the manifold gasket. Somehow the manifold was no longer flat and when the aluminum heated up it created the gap. I confirmed this by spraying carb cleaner and starter fluid to the base of the carb and seeing an increase in engine RPM. It was hard to find as I went through the carb changeout and still no change. It might be easier to carefully spray around the carb base to see if there is any change. Try it hot and cold. It should also help identify the location of the leak.

I guess nobody knows. I suspected a problem with the module on mine and went to the pullnsave and snagged a few to test out. Seemed to fix the problem but never figured out how to trouble shoot it.

anybody? I know there have been alot of comments and suggestions on this before so I'll bump it back up.

it was worse with the shocks cranked to raise the front end but they are all the way back down now. I checked the suspension and noticed the ball joint is in the correct spot to affect the camber but felt like it was still tight. I know I saw some old post with someone who made changes at the top of the strut to give some adjustments. But what would change so much to make it necessary?

It is worn on the outside edge which seems typical for this vintage Subaru. It is visible to the eye why the tires wear on the outside \ / .

The camber on my 84 Brat is worse now and has worn through to the cords on the passenger side front tire. Driver side is bad but liveable. I know there is not any factory adjustment for this and I know it is a common issue. I know I'm not the first with the problem but I can't find any old post on this or anything in the USRM. Any suggestions before I replace the tires? It has adjustable shocks and they are all the way down.

now it won't even fire. I suspect timing is off caused by a bad distributor? It has spark at the plugs and gas in the carb/accel pump. It won't even sputter with a starting fluid. It will have to wait until I can get back on the troublshooting and I'll check the distributor alignment when #1 is at TDC. Before it quit it had 4psi for fuel pressure and good flow into a can.

Would the air suction valve cause problems like this? Too much air?

I swapped carbs and seems to be the same thing going on. Your statement "then it started to fall flat at 3000 rpm or if you get enough into the gas" describes it well. It goes flat and sputters, back off the gas and it revs again. But it seems related to the throttle position as once I load the engine (put it into gear, auto) it dies. I'll check the distributor, coil, etc. The sight gauge on the carb stays full of gas but I might try replacing both fuel filters again. I'm running out of ideas and time.

No, just out of the blue it started. I've been to busy lately for tinkering (the GL-10 was the tinker toy). It just stalled on my son on the way to school. It hasn't been the same since. I'll swap out carbs on sunday and see if it changes, get worse or stays the same.

I checked almost all the vacuum lines. It idles fine and at increasing rpm's; it just can't handle anything past part throttle. I'll check around the canister for loose hoses though. I pulled and cleaned the EGR valve but no changes. If I back off full throttle when in park the engine races up in rpm; back in the throttle it tries to stall.

The 84 Brat started acting up today. Basically when in park you can get the engine to whatever RPM you want but only with part throttle. If at say 2500 rpm and floor it the engine just literally sucks air. If you put it in gear it won't go; it just stalls out. The carb is a rebuilt from about 9 months ago and has been working great. I've had the top of the 2-barrel Hitachi off twice and no change. What about EGR or the air valve thing? I'm going out to put on the old carb and see what happens.