Basket_case

Well, thanks for the replies. I thought I had set up notification to replies, but maybe I didn't. Anyway, this was an opportunity that came my way. I wasn't actively looking for something. If I had been, I might have filtered out the automatics. The Forester in question already had the head gaskets done, so that's (hopefully) not something I have to worry about. I still have an Explorer with a manual transmission that Junior can learn on. The price was right on this Forester. It has minor issues that I can live with or fix cheaply. The transmission fluid looked clean so it looks like it got some loving, at least since the current owner had it. I did end up purchasing it, so we'll see. If things head south with the transmission, I'm hoping there is a supply of JDM parts but the supply starts drying up 20 years after production. I went JDM parts with my Accord. The engine has 90K since installation and the transmission about 60K and all is well so far. I pulled the valve cover recently to check valve clearance and not a single valve required adjustment. It was clean inside but I'm not one to let oil sit for long.

Yeah, I know it all depends on how well it's been maintained, but are there any bad years (or models) for automatic transmissions? For example, in the Honda world, the '98-'02 Accord transmissions were duds while the '91-'97 Accords had very reliable automatics. I'm thinking about buying a 2002 Forester. It's got an auto. Not my first choice but it's going to be for Junior to learn to drive while learning the basic skills. Once those are mastered, then we'll consider a manual. If the 2002 Forester doesn't work out, I might be looking for another Subaru due to wanting/needing AWD so other models and years might be a consideration. Thanks in advance.

Hot dang, man. Thanks. I wonder if just the incandescent bulb can be replaced or if it's one bulb/socket assembly? Those bulbs look a bit like the little bulbs used in the climate control panel in my Explorer. I've got a number of those on hand.

The stereo display backlighting doesn't work. Is there a fix for this? The google just has a lot of information on how to remove and replace the stereo or fix '05 - '09s, but nothing on how to fix a '98 display that isn't lit. My Ranger had the same problem and there was a tiny bulb that could be replaced. And other mid-90's to early 2000's Fords had a power board that had failures due to either cold solder joints or resistors. I can't find any information on '98 Legacy stereo displays. What's the scoop?

Yes and no. It worked in the sense that the clutch functioned, although the pedal had some freeplay in it that felt worse than it did two months ago. It didn't work in the sense that after the first time I cracked the bleeder, the master cylinder would not draw more fluid in no matter how many times I pumped the clutch pedal. Also, the pressure bleeder was unable to push fluid out. After loosening the nuts on the master cylinder, the master cylinder filled from the reservoir as expected. Two pumps of the clutch pedal was all it took to know that it was behaving properly. Last night, I adjusted the rod on the master cylinder and tightened the nuts and now it works as it should. It seems like sometimes you have to adjust mechanisms/linkages so that they function properly, not necessarily as per formal instructions. I usually follow procedures to a fault, but when things don't work after checking and checking some more, then it's time to experiment before replacing parts. I've had to do a similar thing on my Honda. I don't know the history of this car or what parts are on there. Maybe the linkage is worn to where it affects function, something is bent or there are non-OEM parts.

Before I go and do something that might cost me the progress I've made so far, someone double-check me on this. I can't get the clutch to bleed if I have the master cylinder tightened against the firewall. With the master cylinder against the firewall, the master cylinder won't draw in more fluid when the clutch pedal is returned to up. Yes, I close the bleeder before letting the clutch up. Even with a pressure bleeder hooked up, no flow comes out when the bleeder is opened. If I loosen the nuts that retain the master cylinder to almost the end of the studs on the firewall and leave them there, I can bleed the clutch just fine and the master cylinder draws fluid from the reservoir when the pedal is returned to the up position. This seems to indicate to me that the clutch needs to be adjusted so that the master cylinder rod is pulled further away from the master cylinder (i.e., towards the interior of the car) when the master cylinder is tightened against the firewall. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the reassurance. I probably wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't been staring at it before I put the engine back in. I bled the cooling system without any pressure on it without any leaks. I was going to take it on a test drive and didn't want all my efforts go up in smoke (or steam) once the system was hot and pressurized. After two short trips totaling 15 miles there are no leaks. I'll still be paranoid until I get more time on it, but I should sleep better now.

OK. Thanks. I guess I'll just try to accept it. Makes me nervous, though.

Is the OEM thermostat housing really plastic? I have a '98 Legacy GT wagon and I noticed the housing is plastic. I couldn't see any part numbers or manufacturer on it so I don't know if it's OEM or not. The thermostat housings I've seen in videos look like they're made of plastic, too. Anyway, I noticed that the housing flange and the flange on the waterpump don't meet in the middle when tightened down so that's got me a little concerned. It seems as though the plastic housing isn't stiff enough. I've tried a different gasket and still the same thing. I've used a Six Start thermostat and gasket and the OEM gasket. Has anyone else noticed this?

OK, GD, you got me. I used the term "rubber" generically, which would include the synthetics you mentioned, which are no doubt good stuff. Perhaps, I should have used the term "elastomer". Anyway, in my industry, we don't allow form-in-place gaskets. Everything is pre-formed packing. We're a bit fussy about details because we've all been burned at one time or another and that forever changes my outlook on other aspects of life. I can't even go ride my dirt bike without thinking I'm a single failure away from a long walk back to the truck. And I can think of more than one single failure that will do that. Ugh. Overthinking? Guilty as charged. In some ways, life was easier before I became aware of such things. But, I digress... As far as where would any excess goop go, I can imagine it ending up in all kinds of wrong places. The half moon plugs on my heads had gobs of goop on the inside. As far as I know, this was done at the factory. The previous owner, while no longer a self-wrencher, knows about car repair/maintenance and said no one had been inside the engine. Thanks, folks. The oil pan is on and I'm moving on to checking valve clearance.

Thanks. I hear you both. The reason I ask is that the one time I followed the instructions, I experienced a leak. It wasn't bad, but I don't like leaks. It was a different product (Ultra Black), but the instructions were the same. Or, I should say that the instructions on the tube were the same. The online instructions are different. Which leads to another pet peeve: conflicting information. I won't go down that bunny trail... I'd rather have rubber gaskets for things like oil pans. All I can find is cork. I've never had problems with rubber gaskets and it eliminates the worry of excess goop ending up where it shouldn't. I'm also a fan of Hylomar for certain applications where only paper gaskets are available.

I'm not intending to start a debate if Ultra Grey is better than product X, but it may be just as controversial. Anyway, here goes. I've seen a number of Youtube videos of people using Ultra Grey, but nobody seems to be following the instructions. One of the guys is a Subaru mechanic down in AZ. They all just goop and immediately tighten all the way. The instructions say to finger tighten until the goop begins to squeeze out, then wait an hour and tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I see at least two problems: "Finger tight" can be difficult to gauge depending on bolt size, how clean the threads are, access to the bolt, etc. There's no regard for final torque I don't intend to expose the sealant to any oil, coolant, etc. for at least 24 hours, so that part of the instructions is not an issue. I'm probably overthinking this, but I'm just curious what others do and how it's turned out. I tend to follow instructions to a fault, but the Ultra Grey instructions seem a bit fuzzy. If you have used Ultra Grey, did you follow the instructions with respect to finger tighten/wait an hour? What were the results?

Thanks for the info. I'll be doing a little research. I've learned that walking into, or calling, the dealer and ordering parts has a premium. If I would have ordered via parts.subaru.com, the price would have been $16 for one of the heater hoses that I recently bought, but from the dealer, it's almost $23. When I asked the dealer parts guy why, he just told me that's the way it is. Honda is the same way. Parts prices are most expensive at the dealer counter (or via phone), cheaper if you order online through Honda via hondapartsonline.com and cheaper still if you order online from someone like hondapartsnow.com (or similar). I just need to find the hondapartsnow.com equivalent for Subaru parts. The odd thing about ordering through parts.subaru.com (or hondapartsonline.com) is that the parts aren't actually ordered. The local dealer has to put your online order into the system. So, if they're not paying attention to online orders, your order can sit for days. This has happened twice to me.

Thanks for asking and thanks for all the tips from the others. Business hasn't gone yet. I learned once again that life doesn't stop happening just because you have an engine apart. The local dealer didn't order my parts for a few days so I lost a weekend. I got a mis-marked aftermarket heater hose (twice) from an online source (not their fault) and then had to go back to the dealer. Then, I had to visit an aging (almost 96 years old) relative the following weekend. This weekend, something came up and I have to go in to work. I've lost three weekend since I started this task. I'm just full of excuses, aren't I? It took me 5 weeks total elapsed time to R&R my Accord engine. It's looking like I won't be breaking my record this time with the Subaru, even though pulling the engine is a breeze compare to the Accord. I've been picking off little things in the evening when I can - cleaning the block, replacing the separator plate, replacing the throwout bearing, resealing the oil pan, etc. but even then, other aspects of life take most of my evenings from me. I'll get there. I have hot spares in my fleet so I can afford to have the Legacy down for a while.

Thanks. Now, off to the garage to take care of business.

I have a '98 Legacy GT and I'm doing head gaskets. I've got some questions about the non-integrated tensioner. I have a feeling I'll create a poop storm by asking, so before you chastise me, I have searched online and also looked at the factory manual. I've seen a lot of videos of timing belts but none of them were with the non-integrated tensioner. None of the links to USMB posts work for me. The factory manual only covers the integrated tensioner. On to my questions: Are there any tricks to doing the timing belt properly with the non-integrated tensioner? I noticed the mounting holes are slotted somewhat. Do I push the tensioner tight up against the pulley and tighten it down before pulling the pin? Does it matter where the tensioner is located? Also, the bolts for the tensioner are smaller than the pulley bolts. What's the torque for the tensioner bolts? If the information I need is out there somewhere, just point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.

I posted this in that "other" Subaru forum but I thought I'd seek some second (or third) opinions. I'm in the midst of a head gasket job and I've been ordering a lot of parts, both OEM and aftermarket. I ordered my OEM parts online via parts.subaru.com, which was processed by a local dealer. The dealer sat on the order for a couple days and now I can't do the work I had planned this weekend. The following weekend I can't work on the car so the dealer's inaction set me back two weeks. Anyway, I'm wondering if there are online OEM sources that respond quickly to orders. Sources closer to the upper left corner of the lower 48 would be preferred to minimize shipping time. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I've tried a number of links in the sticky and the pages don't load. All I get is a blank page. I've tried both Firefox and IE and get the same result. I also tried copying the link and pasting it into the address bar. No luck. Is there a trick? I should mention that pages external to the USMB load. Also, if it matters, the links in question were in the New Gen FAQ sticky.

OK. Thanks. The links in the sticky haven't been working for me. I'll try again. I wasn't sure about some of these online manuals given the forum rules and such for what I assume were once (still?) copyrighted publications. That's why I usually just pay for the manuals. I don't want to run afoul of anyone.

Ah, OK. The perils of buying used. I know how that goes. Do you suppose the previous owner put in oil with a viscosity rating one or two up from recommended? On my older vehicles (which is nearly all of them) with lots of miles, I sometimes run 10W40 and I've noticed how quiet the motor seems compared to when I use 5W30.

Has anyone bought the downloadable PDF version of the factory service manuals from eBay? I see hard copies listed for north of $500 and the downloadable version runs around $15. I usually buy hard copies, but I haven't ever seen hard copies this expensive for a 20 year old car. I have a '98 Legacy. The claim is that these downloadable manuals are the same that the dealers use. I don't know which is more surprising to me - the extremely low price of the electronic version or the ridiculous price of the hard copies. I just might go with the electronic version if it's legitimate, but it seems too good to be true (and you know how the expression goes). Just a few examples of the electronic version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-LEGACY-1995-1996-1997-1998-1999-WORKSHOP-SERVICE-REPAIR-FACTORY-MANUAL/123300229858?fits=Year%3A1998|Model%3ALegacy&hash=item1cb54432e2:g:KLcAAOSwKRBbHLn~&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/OFFICIAL-WORKSHOP-SERVICE-Repair-MANUAL-SUBARU-LEGACY-1998-2004-WIRING/152804680243?hash=item2393de6233:g:H~EAAOSwc2FaG~dy&vxp=mtr

I'm curious how frequently the oil was changed on this. What's your oil change interval?

Pardon my ignorance of anything Subaru. And I do believe that there are indeed dumb questions, but I'll ask anyway so bear with me. I just got a new-to-me '98 Legacy GT and while I was ordering parts form Rock Auto for my other cars, I thought I would get a few oil filters for the Subaru. I got the Denso 150-2002 (or 1502002, seen it both ways). I figured if it's Japanese, it should be good. Right? Well, this small box shows up on my doorstep and I wondered where my oil filters were. When I opened the box, the filters were in there and I couldn't believe how small those filters are. I've seen bigger filters on 12 hp lawn tractors. I've never gotten the wrong part from Rock Auto. I cross-checked with other sites that also say the Denso 150-2002 is for my Subaru. Are the OEM filters really this small or is this Denso something smaller that just happens to fit? Has anybody used the Denso? I don't believe in extended oil change intervals so this thing won't be on there for long if I use it. It just seems so dang tiny as to be the wrong filter. The filter on my Accord is gargantuan in comparison. Please note that I do not intend to start a debate on which is the best oil and/or filter to use. I know where that will go.

Thanks. I look forward to learning about this new addition to my fleet. No twin turbos. I'm not a fan of turbos. I'm a simple guy who likes simple things. I remember the good old days when it was easy to work on cars. As far as I'm concerned, the less stuff under the hood, the better. I'm no luddite, but I don't like the tendency to make things more complicated just because technology makes it easier and cheaper. The timing belt and associated goodies are at the top of the list. I'm well aware that terrible things happen when two objects in motion try to occupy the same space at the same time.

Needless to say, I'm new to the forum and also new to Subaru. I've been mostly a Ford guy. Go ahead and joke, but Ford has been good to me. I must say that my Fords are pretty old by most standards (1995 - 2000) and Ford's current offerings don't appeal to me so my experience with Fords is not with anything that would be considered recent (unless you're old like me). I usually try to stick with cars/trucks that I'm familiar with to minimize the amount of time I spend on the learning curve. I wasn't looking for a Subaru, it found me. This Subaru ('98 Legacy GT 5 speed wagon) came to me at the great price of $0.00 with "only" 138k on the clock so it was hard to turn down. However, it does need work so I'll be getting dirty a lot more than I would normally be. My current fleet is in good running order and require only basic maintenance at this point. This Subaru will take some effort to get to decent running condition and I'm hoping I don't have the dreaded head gasket problem. I haven't looked into it far enough yet. Anyway, that's all for now.