Steptoe
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Posts posted by Steptoe
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I don't suppose Oscar Zerks middle name is Unijoint?
Funny how down under we show respect to the Welch brothers for their invention but northern hemisphere just call them freeze plugs
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Man, been through this with a few suppliers in the US by power of internet.
Must be a hoard of them waiting to be found in an old parts bin owned by a guy yet to discover, or care about the interweb.
If you get a reco one, likely to have original module not new
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Zerk?
Did this site insert crazy words as a substitute for words like nipple and cockroach?
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On 4/11/2020 at 12:26 PM, moosens said:
Oh , that’s an XT
Oh, does the code suggest XT?
I may have mixed up the manuals and covers
Pretty sure it was an old Brumby or EA81 auto sedan
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Doesn't an EJ conversion require a custom exhaust?
I tried my EJ20 Imp exhaust on the Brumby - something needs a bite out it
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Found this in an old owner manual handbook pouch
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If you have an ecm aka ecu, is it for some sort of fuel control of a carby? SPFi then? MPFi ??
My experience only lies with EA82T MPFi
They use a diagnostic LED built into the ECU which often tells the problem, sometimes nothing related to problem
You need to find how yours works
It may be flashing a code or just indicate a healthy O2 sensor?? Or you may need to do the step byy step to get it to spit some codes
I like Bennie's suggestion if timing belts, easiest check is dust cap off to see if rotor spins on cranking
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EA82T S1 are mounted on copper heatsink spacers
When new modules were available aftermarket, to hey we're claimed to be more heat protected
Been tossing whether to add more copper heatsinks to the underside
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Your KCM most likely mounted between glovebox and body.
They are in next to turbo model, EA82T and first series from 85 and following year share similar if not same four pin module
Must be heaps of unused, unloved S1 EA82T distributors just sitting in the US. I made a wanted call but nothing much came to fruition
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Maybe check integrity of the four pins and corresponding females. Squeeze females a little for tighter contact on the module pins
Make a new post with module wanted EA81T as title
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Theoretically....gosh that looks like a tidy ute....
A two pin module could work if hooked up to the correct two wires
I looked at doing this for emergency spark but stumbled on version 3 of the adaptor block I was making
The mounting holes of the four pin and two pin are not the same
Just had a change of plan for V4 just then...
A two pin may just work roughly bunged in rather than cleanly mounted
Two pin will not give knock control but should allow spark to drive it
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On the EA82 tailshaft/ prop shaft , listings for the uni joints suggests they are actually different between front half and rear half
Anyone replaced these staked babies on front half?
I have done a steering column staked in a Brumby but never tailshaft staked
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On 3/27/2020 at 10:53 AM, el_freddo said:
Be wary of swapping the Torsten bar setups between the wagon and the MV.
Apparently (I’ve only heard) the MV’s Torsten rating is higher than that of the wagon. This is the difference between load carrying and ride comfort.
While you’ve got the diff and driveshafts out, now is a good time to tackle the inner CV cups that are more than likely welded to the diff output shafts due to rust.
With full access you shouldn’t have too much trouble getting these apart. Lube up before reinstalling!
Cheers
Bennie
Torsten has corrupted your keyboard !
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i got the number from her son too !
and world gets smaller, as this was the Brumby an acquaintance found in the course of his day,
and it had been for sale, low kilometres
now withdrawn from sale
take care, and keep up the social distancing
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Caught up with another Brumby driver I had seen about.
Thought I had been getting a wave from a young blonde.
Turns out hair colour is more grey, and ....she is
about my dad's age !
Tinted windows ...
Still, I got her number
at the moment we have a COVID19 stand off distance of five feet....the Brumbys disregarded this rule
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I googled Ingalls but only got the heavy advertiser's I suppose they were, maybe should have looked a few pages on.
Ingalls engineering , think came up with catalogues...
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Meanwhile, think about all those who have converted EA81 to EJ
I doubt all have an EA81T tank or a surge tank
Keeping the fuel level up might help reduce problems but not practical for all applications
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the little black rubber weather proofing seal at the throttle end came off the outer cable and jambed up the throttle as a was zipping along
Required quick thinking to kill ignition, and glide across three lanes to roll up to the Mercedes dealer driveway
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A link or suggestions on search ideas appreciated
Only ones I found, to be nil stock were for Justy
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Thought I asked same question in last week, but has vanished.
Someone once said Mitsubishi vans known as L300 and Express in 4WD form had a Castor bar/ radius rod with threaded adjustment would work or fit our EA series
So, anyone ....
The two bolt holes for securing rod to lower control arm are going to be critical in the centre to centre measure
Looks like 39.5 - 40 mm centres from Fuji
I had a chance look at a plain old RWD Express van and it looks to be well....yes, threaded adjustable ends, just unable at this stage to measure the bolt centres
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I found that EA82 non XT run very similar top and bottom hoses
In order to keep reduced inventory suppliers often list same part number for top and bottom
And I think the number belongs to the bottom hose
I ran this EA82 spfi manifold in myEA81 Brumby and used bottom EA82 hose, possibly cut 10 mm off engine side
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I stumbled upon yet another EA81 oil pump in my shed the other day...
What do you guys do to them to toast them?
Yep, I have seen a broken one from hurried removal or install, and had problems getting one in on my last rebuild.
Never had problems before with putting new genuine seals and gaskets, done or supervised eight or nine
My rotating bits always measure up within spec and do not look marked.
Maybe it is time to do a head count of these babies and put up on eBay....
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Something I find with Subaru wiring is likely due to its earth switching
If I am going to tap into an existing power for say air horn compressor off coil horns I use the POS and neg sides of circuit to switch new devices relay
Being LPG only I don't use the fuel pump but recently used fuel pump connector pos and neg to supply engine running only power up circuit to drive my trailer LED lights as the rear indicators only have 8.6V not enough to drive 12V trailer lights.
Using pumps yep 12V supply gave no troubles
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My Brumby is positive switched when ignition first on for few seconds, then once engine is running
Old fuel ....do not even try to use it or its tank until you know tank is clean inside
Fuel is a complex makeup that when stale, chemicals have evaporated out if it into the air space in tank. Leaving a full fuel tank for years seems to be better than less
This changed fuel rots plastics and rubbers, causes gumming of intake valve stems....
I have cleaned each section of fuel pipes with compressed air and had some good crap rust coloured stuff low out resolving all similar issues
Once you wire up pump, run some new temporary hose to each end and see if it pumps it through from one safety approved container to another in a safe environment with an assistant and observer standing by...bench test the pump
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Hidden key code?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Oh, that manual also says L Series, so a bit odd it also included XT
I actually scored a LHS barrel and key from the US
My XT came sans key worky LHS, so the driver's door and ignition one key, LHS on its own in RHD world no biggy