GoudaWagon

I don't remember where I heard this but I tried it and its been gold so far... Take some XX fine (or anything close) steel wool and cram as much in between the shrouds and the pipe as you can. anywhere it rattles, usually where the separate pieces connect. I mean, really shove it in there with a chisel or crowbar or anything that fits that shape until you cant cram anymore in. As stated above, has worked wonders for me so far

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After doing a little research and common sense thinking.... I have my dash and instrument panel back in my 94 loyale wagon w AC. All works except the gauge cluster lights. It is my understanding that the headlight relays (under and to the left of the steering column) are connected to the instrument panel lights as well. I had to unplug them to get at the heater core and my method of documenting which order they went in failed me. So my questions are 1. Are these relays all the same - any of the four plugs can go into any of the 4 relays? if not, what order do they go in or 2. is there a way I can test them to find out what goes where?

Nice! unfortunately it says in the small print that it would ship in 1 to 3 MONTHS! I wish I had that much to time to wait for one... but alas, I do not. Thank you very much for looking it up though I will for sure! The one or two ive seen online look really nice. I hope to get it all back together real soon

Yessir, I'm going to do an LED dash bulb swap and wanted to ask (but didn't know if i would've needed to start another thread) but since it was mentioned... I was thinking of going with the bright white (like 5k Kelvin bc the 6500k looks a little too blue for my liking) does anyone have opinions? would the white be too bright? its a 168 size bulb for the bigger ones, if I'm not mistaken but haven't gotten the correct bulb # for the smaller ones yet. Pictures would be of much help if anyone has any. I don't have much in the way of reference. I cant seem to find many LED dash bulb swaps on many ea82's Thanks again!

Thanks a million fellas, greatly appreciate the assistance.

I'm not quite sure on fitment. But didnt the legacy's have EJ's in them? Mine's EA82 and from what i understand and the pics in the book have led me to believe they are different. Either way, I'd rather get a new one especially bc replaing this damn thing is a royal pain! I will research and get back to you thank you for the link! That will be helpful!

That's rad(iator) haha sorry the opportunity was too good. I was told to try this method but thought it would be much more expensive than trying to fit one with similar dimensions. Do you remember if it ended up being a reasonable price in the end? I would love to give a shop the core and have them do their magic

Hello good people of the USMB. I'm in a bind and definitely need some suggestions. I have a 94 Loyale wagon ea82 spfi w/ac. Heater core took a dump all over the pass floor a few months ago so when it finally started to get too cold to drive it in the morning, I parked it in the garage and tore the dash, steering wheel, and cluster out to finally retrieve the ol' heater core... This is where my predicament begins. I have called all major parts stores i.e. o Reilly's / AutoZone/ advanced Auto/ Napa/ motion auto etc etc. I even checked Amazon, eBay rockauto and anywhere else online that I could think of and nothing. I'm thinking that surely one of you fine gents (or ladies) know a trick or two to finagle a new core in there. Can I fit one from another make/model car? Do I just buy a generic size and put the plumbing from my old core on it? I tried testing the one that I pulled out of my car but couldn't really find a leak. Although I couldn't get a good seal to bring it up to any significant psi. But it was definitely leaking ALOT. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks y'all!

I got ahold of a diagram from an old service manual and I followed the power pin through the circuit. Not far into it i noticed that one of the resistors had burnt up. Went to the junkyard to hopefully get one out of a similar year/make / model but settled for an '87 sedan. although it did have spfi! which was really the only similarity other than it was a Subaru. If anything I figured i could solder in what i needed from the old one to the new. When I got home i figured "what the hell?" and stuck it under the dash, plugged it in and turned the key... BOOM! fired right up and has ran flawlessly ever since. A few questions though. Is it safe to be running this ecu out of another car so dissimilar from mine? - Do i run the risk of burning anything out or over working any specific components? - Check engine light came on for the first time ever since i've owned the car (I thought the bulb was burnt out) but dont see the led blinking... - Would it be a better idea for me to solder in the resistor that was burnt out on the old one with the good one from the new and just run that? Thanks for all the help gentlemen, its been quite a ride!

It hasn't blown again and i went out with a test light, found the power wire to the ECU and it lit right up. this is with the key off... I'm assuming thats normal since it would be in a sort of stand by mode while the car isnt running And again, I visually inspected all connectiors and wires that I could see but nothing out of the ordinary. The car is impressively unmolested as far as wiring and interior goes

So i went digging into the ol wagon last night trying to retrace the wires til i found power when i saw that a 15a fuse was blown! it was the ign/fuel slot. I thought i had it in the bag but, swapped it out, cranked it over and.... nothin. Anyways, still have some q's. how do i test for power at the ecu? No light blinking at all still. I seem to have power at the coil and fusible links then those wires go into the body panel by the wheel then into the fuse box? I'm assuming I just unplug the plugin off the ecu that contains the wire that supplies power then hook up a multi meter red side to that specific pin and the black side of the multimeter to a known ground? Apologies for my overly simple question, I want to be positive i'm doing all this correctly and not missing something due to user error Thanks y'all

Sorry for the delay gentlemen but I have a lot more info about my issue... I recently had a co-worker come over to check out the Gouda (He was a mechanic for many years and 'on"is much more knowledgeable than I). We started with the no spark problem at the plug and worked backwards, we got back to the coil and noticed both sides are getting power with key ? is this normal? and when we ran the test light from ground side of the battery to one set of coil wires the fuel pump would kick on like i had just turned the key from "acc" to "on". Also, I've been searching the Haynes book but cant seem to find what color the negative v positive wires are on the coil. theres a black and black with white stripe and then blue and green? The fuel pump would prime and click while grounding out the black and black with white stripe side, again , is this suppose to happen and if not, what could be causing that? In any case we went through as much as we could and came to the conclusion that since ive swapped out the disty with a known working one, coil with a brand new one and is in spec with respect to ohm resistance, the next place to trouble shoot would be the ecu. I removed it and cleaned up the connections but no change. I havet seen the led light up at all with the test connectors connected but im not positive im checking the codes correctly. anyone have a write up on how to check codes? Also, i had a good line on a ecu on craigslist up here (I talked to him about just buying the whole parts car, same year same options even same color!) but he has since officially ghosted and i haven't been able to get ahold of him. So im on the lookout for a working ecu to, if anything, check to see if thats the problem couple q's on the ecu; Can it be tested? If i get one out of another loyale, how close in model year, options etc. does it have to be...? How do i test for engine codes? Thanks again yall for all yalls help! Cam

All other electrical components seem to be working. Sprayed starter fluid but nothing, pulled plugs and they're bone dry. I do hear the fuel pump kick on and humm then click though... Although I did try plugging in the green test wires to no avail. No sound of solenoids cycling. No spark at plugs or distributor and checked if the rotor screw had backed out (first thing i checked since its happened to me in the past... Thank you for all your speedy recs! I am going out to check starter connections and engine grounds now

Hey ya'll hope to get some suggestions on my no spark no fuel condition on my 94 loyale with an ea82 SPFI, 301,xxx miles. Rebuilt engine 3k miles ago. I put it up in the air about a week ago to change out CV axles (I installed some aftermarket POS's and immediately regretted that decision) and also pulled off the valve covers to re-tighten the head bolts after the rebuild. Ever since then, I have this no spark no fuel condition. checked fuses, checked other connections, checked timing, looked at as much of the electrical wiring as i could as well as continuty testing, swapped out distributor with a known good one aaannnd.... nothing. I know I'm missing other info I should be exuding but its rather late and am a bit sleepy. Please help! I'm borrowing my dads car for now (which is a sweet little forrester) but I miss my little wagon!! and i cant use that car for too much longer I was pointed in the direction of an ECU? Im working on borrowing a working one from friend but im sure theres other things i should try first. I am not extremely versed on the mechanic side of things (I do fiberglass fab) but know my way around a toolbox and have patience and plenty of motivation to follow the suggestions i get from people on here who i assume are much more knowledgeable than I in this area. Thanks again for any help, Cam