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FerGloyale last won the day on June 15

FerGloyale had the most liked content!

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About FerGloyale

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    Subaru Fanatic!
  • Birthday 12/31/1977

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  • Location
    Corvallis, Oregon
  • Vehicles
    80 DL wagon 2wd, 84 GL 4wd sedan, 84 GL 4wd wagon,

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  1. FerGloyale

    '01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build

    Scalman, it's awesome to see your travel pictures. Lithuania looks very similar to the Pacific Northwest region of the USA. You ever come across any yummy Mushrooms? Regular edible kinds, like Morel (Morchella) Chanterelles, or Boletes? Looks like a good area for fungi.
  2. FerGloyale

    Brat jump seats for sale

    What happened to the handles?
  3. one of those sockets has a ground short, probably through a lot of corrosion to provide just enough resistance to not blow the fuse, but enough to draw the volts down.
  4. It's been hitting me pretty damn hard. My wrists are painfully, achingly pins and needles at night. But it doesn't go away with motion and circulation increase. It just friggin hurts all night. Still can rip things apart by hand, but I try now to use more tools instead of tough.
  5. Again, they all (up to 2004ish at least) use the same 4 per rotation pulse as the old reed switches in the EAs I really think it's a connector and ground issue more than anything. just inferring from my experience with swaps. Sounds like it's possible 12v to the 4EAT sensor is needed, but I would think the ECU would provide the 5v that is ultimate the signal voltage, and see the pulse as it was grounded. None of the FSM ECU pinout voltage charts make any distinction between AT/MT. Voltage on the VSS pin is always either 0 or 5 At any rate, it's probably easier, and certainly for a client, I would just recommend buying the correct VSS for the MT.
  6. yeah actually he'll need an exhaust Pre-cat section from a 95 2.2 or a 95-99 2.5 engine of some sort. Outback, early Forester or Leg GT the 94 y-pipe is all 1 piece with the front cat and won't directly fit the 96.
  7. t will only leak what's in the oil galleries. That will happen whether you drain the oil pan or not because the pressure sensor is on the pressure side of the pump, not submerged in the sump.
  8. I would go further and ask to remove the oil pan. I've seen more than one "good" engine for sale, only to have bearing material (lots of it) found int he bottom of the pan. I won't pay more than $50 bucks for an engine if I can't pull the oil pan to inspect.
  9. the later models with the "wrap around" exhaust can be difficult. I know after 2005 they started the altered oil pan and doubled back exhaust. Especially difficult in models without the oil cooler. The filter is surrounded by exhaust pipe heat shields. That being said, filter should still be tightened by hand only. Using a rag or blue shop towel to grip makes for better grip.
  10. the jog is meant to make it easier to know which gear you are in. If you can push shifter right, your in 3rd, and can drop to second. If you can't slide right, then you are either in D or in 2nd. Plus there is an indicator on the dash. To do the same in my 98 forester you have to press the button to get from 3rd to 2nd, with no indicator on the dash. I prefer the H6 gated shifter. (my wife has an 03 ll bean) Anyhow, my point was that what you are experiencing is a characteristic of the model, not a fault in your car. If you are moving too fast for 1st gear, the downshift won't engage if that's what you mean. (ie. engaging 1st would over rev the engine, the TCU will not engage 1st, or 2nd or 3rd for that matter if the TCU deems speed to be excessive for the gear.) How fast are you trying to jump out into traffic if you feel the need to grab 1st gear to get in front of someone? jk.....but really 1st gear is revved out by 15~20 mph. Second isn't fast enough? Maybe you need new spark plugs and premium gas (that's what it's supposed to get) PS, you are better off trying to jump into traffic in D than 2nd. When you start off, from a stop or near stop in "2" the TCU will start you in 2 rather than 1st. If you are in D, it will start you in 1st. Only use the downshift while moving to pass, or going down hill or into a corner to engine brake. Use 2 "hold" starting from a stop in very icy situations where you don't want wheel spin.
  11. Running a new main 12+ wire to the Circuit breaker at the window relay helps, a little. Also, check under the passenger side carpet for the red wire 5 way junction.....corrodes at the crimp joint. Right under passengers feet. Relay and breaker are under the seat itself. They were always slow.
  12. Yes use your existing strut tops. Make sure you order "legacy Outback" struts.....not "outback sport which are just imprezas with a paint job. There are no 2wd Outbacks. Fronts KYB # 339151/152 and Rears 335020/021 link to KYB page https://www.kyb.com/catalog/
  13. Either ECU has no problem dealing with a simple reed pulse from the old EA's when we do swaps. So how would they not be able to see the same sensor? Only the one wire with the pulse on it goes to the ECU?
  14. No. Turning off traction control will actually ensure you just have 2 full open diffs. Whichever wheel has less traction, will get all the power. Now, you WILL be better able to give it full throttle power to the wheels, but again, without X-mode or traction on you will have basic open diffs.
  15. get a set of 96-99 Outback struts. Forrester fronts will work, but will leave you saggy butt if you use the Forester rear struts due to a unibody difference in the For vs. Leg. it's also a good idea to swap rear trailing arm brakcets from said Outback or from 98-08 Forrester. not absolutely nessecary but will help center the rear wheels in the wells. Done. You can use your same springs.