Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


FerGloyale last won the day on January 6

FerGloyale had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

17 Good

About FerGloyale

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/31/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Corvallis, Oregon
  • Vehicles
    80 DL wagon 2wd, 84 GL 4wd sedan, 84 GL 4wd wagon,

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. dang it gotta remember to look at dates on these
  2. it's not a "neutral safety switch" Neutral switch on MT subarus HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH STARTING And to the OP......If part 30 in the upper diagrahm is broken, you are going to get stuck in 4wd at some point. Possibly even stuck in 4 low. That is the 4wd shift collar and has several interlock pins inside to grab and let go of the lo range rod. Happens when the 4wd shift rod rotates while being pushed in/out. Plan on needing to replace that fork.
  3. How are you verifying this? If the harness has power, then the ECU should have it too. Does the CEL light with Key on? Check the underhood fuse box. It is very unlikely that wiring up inside the harness suddenly seperated.
  4. Later OBD II harness is easier to trim. None of needed wires gtrghh SMJ so y can toss it. Hooking up CEL is EXCACTLY the same....1 wire. Fuel temp sensor is not ned to run engine. That said I have no problem running an OBD I harness/ecu in some of my swaps. OBD I and OBD II harness are completely NOT intaerchangable.
  5. I want maximum travel but not for speed just dealing with big terrain. As for the trailing arm bushing, the trailing arm is cast. so no modding it really unless I'm missing something. It's got the whole hub mount built into it. I suppose building a whole plate steel long arm with a heavy duty link could be done. But I am sticking to the stock so stock or upgrade aftermarket type bushings if there are any would be the only way to go. I think a balljoint type for the inner end link for the forward lower arm would be enough. I was thinking cut the outer ends off some legacy front control arms and weld them to the subframe so they sit right in front of the inner CV cups to make new inner front pivot points. And then using the solid, long camry links with a mount for a bolt on type newer legacy lower balljoint at the other end. My builds are always about recycling old subie parts and keeping the consumable replacement parts stream all Subaru if possible. Lots of scavenged used take off parts used to prototype, and once the design is dialed I MIGHT splurge and put a few brand new items in. But it's a wheeler, and gets hammered, so using "life left still" used parts is great for the budget.
  6. It will overheat again eventually. They pretty much all do Be prepared to do the HG job. I do the whole job out the door including new timing belt set for just under 2000. That is EVERYTHING resealed. Pistons pulled, new rings. Head surfaced. Japanese OE parts.
  7. Yeah...I had figured on making the front lower links same length as the rear arms. with an adjuster in each to fine tune the toe. What I was unsure of is what angle to make it? Parallel to the plane of the rear arm? steeper, shallower.....seems anything but parallel would bind, but the OE setup runs different angles soooo? I am just using bushings still for now. AlthoughI don't like how much the front link "twists" as the trailing arm pivots up and down, so I may switch to a balljoint on the inner end where I am making the subframe mod to hold the longer links. I looked at the forward link, I don't think removing it entirely would be a good idea. It's the only thing that really holds the toe. The large bushing at the front of the trailing arm has lots of flex and already is known for sliding to the outside edge of the mount. so you really need the front lower link and rear lower link to keep the toe static. I think. This car needs to be safe and roadworthy, as well as wheelable. Oh and I will have mismatched wheels/hubs for a bit......eventually swapping over to EJ front hubs and axles too. Not until I have the EJ rear e-brake cables all hooked up and operational. Until then I want to keep the front E-brakes.
  8. Ig relay is way up in the top corner of the dash, drivers side. In a bracket wit the fuel pump. I don't think that's your problem though, since you seem to have power to the ECU. The CEL does light with key on, correct?
  9. Have you verified the timing belt is intact? And not skipped time?
  10. Todd, I would like to know more about the longer links you plan to make. I will be using this same 00-04 rear suspension setup to replace the original torsion bar rear suspension and short axles in my EA81 body wagon. The old EA81 torsions are not holding up well, keep getting sagged out. And Axles keep breaking, and I can't buy more. Stubs break, so I'd like to switch to the newer internal mating type axles. My shocks will be custom after the subframe is mounted and travel figured. What I have been wondering is how long to make the longer lower links? Or do I even need to make both sets longer or just the forward super shorties. Whatever I make will be adjustable to help set toe correctly. (got some old 90's Camry rear links with with adjustable sections I can use with Suby ends welded on) I was starting in on the welding for this project before christmas, but a death in the family has put fun projects on hold while I tend to the wife and kids. I will try to get some pictures up. If you have any shots of your lower link setup or any other input that would be great.
  11. None of the ECU wires will be running separate from the wrapped harness. My guess is that's an old wire someone added in. (probably poorly). I would honestly ignore it unless you REALLY Think it's part of the factory wiring. At any rate you can test the ignition relay and power to ECU. First, does CEL light with key on? if so, the IG relay is working. and ECU has power. Test the Yellow wire at the Alternator for 12v with key on. If it has power, so does the rest of the injector harness and the ECU sensors. If that's all good and no start still I would look at the wires behind/under the throttle body. There are connectors there, 3 on a bracket. 3 pin crank sensor(gray) 3 pin Cam sensor (white) and 1 pin for knock sensor. Check the crank and cam sonsors particularly. ECU case does not need to be bolte to ground. it grounds through the wires on the intake. If CEL lights, ECU has ground.
  12. Would be way too long. Possibly too wide also. And way too heavy is an even bigger issue. The EA81 cars there is no real upgade for a strut/spring combo that would hold up to that weight. Even if you found something to work, the weight balance of the car would be WAAAAY off. It would be a hell of a stop light racer though....if you could keep the tires from spinning or the trans from breaking.
  13. FerGloyale

    LED light bars

    I do........with halogens. Save the light bar for the SxS
  14. FerGloyale

    Wheelin video. Small clip

    Now on Youtube.