FerGloyale

No. Turning off traction control will actually ensure you just have 2 full open diffs. Whichever wheel has less traction, will get all the power. Now, you WILL be better able to give it full throttle power to the wheels, but again, without X-mode or traction on you will have basic open diffs.

get a set of 96-99 Outback struts. Forrester fronts will work, but will leave you saggy butt if you use the Forester rear struts due to a unibody difference in the For vs. Leg. it's also a good idea to swap rear trailing arm brakcets from said Outback or from 98-08 Forrester. not absolutely nessecary but will help center the rear wheels in the wells. Done. You can use your same springs.

The H6 trans mapping is is setup to maximize the extra torque of the H6. Subaru compromised the fuel mapping and the shift mapping of the h6 cars to meet fuel economy standards. I would recommend either manually downshifting, or using a quick "stab" of the throttle to enter "power" mode (old subaru stuff, but still in the mapping, just no light to indicate) It's not about how far you push the pedal down, it's about how quickly. Stab it instead of "rolling" into the throttle. Or like I said, us the shifter to grab 3rd instead of staying in "D" and asking the TCU to do it.

I towed an 84 gl sedan, with no engine, behind my Forester using a tow bar. No problems.

it will screw into the same hole. I think one is 3 wire and one is 2 wire. Can't remember, but I think one of the wires in the 3 wire is just a shield grond so you could ignore it. Interesteed in what you find.

So i have finalized the rear suspension. IMG_3745 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Went back to stock length forward links. Though I made the inner mounts alot tougher than stock, and built some "sliders" as gaurds at the front of the block. IMG_3739 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3734 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Also redid sliders at the forward trailing arm link, tying into the front subframe. And redid the rear attachment of my tank gaurd. Need to buy more bolts and paint. IMG_3732 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr New tires. @ front are used Wild Country, 2 rear are new hercules MT all 31x10x15 Alignment is less than 1cm toe in at level. 1/2 cm toed out at full droop. So there is some change happening still, but less than with teh old EA setup and it's driving nicely. If tire wear shows a problem I have "some" adjustment at the rear lateral arms. normal ride height I've got 12" clearance. IMG_3741 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Also welded up a small crack above the chrome lip on the tailgate. The hole there would let water in while and when I opened the gate it would drip out eh latch hole onto my head. Hoping to have solved that. The rear gate will get the fern camo treatment before the chrome lip and latch handle go back in. IMG_3731 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3730 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

no. different connectors. Might be able to hack it.

you could make them work by drilling new holes in the old EA upper mounting plate. But it's not a direct fit.

Your right. I meant ACCEL MSD has a pretty solid track record. Although on an NA EJ18, it would not really do much if anything.

Yup. Wipe down with lacquer thinner, or spray with brake clean and let dry before installing gasket. I personally dislike the bristle discs. They are fast, but can damage block if used too aggressively. even the white ones. I am sure GD and hopefully his workers know how to use them correct, but since I do just one or 2 a month I go the slow, by hand route to clean.

So they had to change the front axles too? I can almost guaranty that the cheapo front axles are the problem. Get a set of good ones. Even used as long as they are OE subaru with the green inner cups. $60 axles NEVER work out. get the subaru remans, some HD type new, or a set of used OE.

The same stock coil type was used on 2.2 and 2.5 engines also. So I don't think there is any reason to think it's NOT working just fine igniting 20~40% less cylinder volumes worth of fuel in your engine. If it needs replaced (they can fail, seen it twice in like 1000 cars), replace it with a good, OE japanese original either new or used. Used is fine they fail so seldom. People like to bolt on goodies, and then feel like it's been a "performance" upgrade that they've accomplished. Most of these types of "upgrades" are worth little or even worse than nothing. "Cold air" intakes, "hi-Flow air filters" and "Performance" coils are among the 3 worst ideas to do to a car in general, and definitely to subaru. The "stock" setup already provides, cold, well filtered, water separated air and a nice hot, japanese made, Transistor driven coil pack provides the spark reliably. There is nothing to be gained other than spending money on "feels". Generic coil won't perform better and won't last as long...they never do. People used to want to put MSD yellows and silvers into EA cars and they crapped after a few years, while the stock hitachi's in the 80's cars mostly all still work great 30+ years. And don't even get me started on "hi flow" filters.....might as well throw a handful of dirt right down the throttle body. None of that stuff is necessary for a non-biuilt engine. If you've put high lift/duration cams, ported the heads, added forced induction, and addded larger injectors AND have the engine management to support all that, you might maybe see some gain from a true coil upgrade and opening up the intake and filtration. Even then, that's at the expense of long term wear on the engine. That stuff is for racing where engines get torn down and serviced or replaced regularly. Hope that sounds pragmatic, not personal. That's a damn good Loyale you got.

Nah, It's ussually external HG leaks. Not that there is anything "wrong" about it. If it's not overheating, it's okay to drive. But they WILL get worse, eventually.

Was the problem present before those axles?

What brand? I've seen many, many crappy cheapo axles. Just yesterday I replaced a "brand new" axle from Les Schwab (carquest) It was making terrible clicking. It was the second one schwab had put in, doing same thing. We took the inner boot off, and found 3 of the balls were down in the bottom of the cup, not the cage. Subaru Reman axles are about 175, and worth every penny. The new style HD sliding axles are decent too in my experience, although some have reported problems. I will not install cheapo parts store, "new" china axles.

Are you kidding? Yes, absolutely, they would deny that spoob like a catholic priest caught at a NAMBLA convention. Insurance validity is contingent on a legal vehicle. You would be totally boned if you caused an accident in an unregistered, or improperly registered car. read your CONTRACT.

94 LEGACY 2.2 will be solid followers, hydro lifters. 96 will be roller followers, hydro lifters. Both are Non-interference. 97 began roller follower, solid lifter, Interference timing belt. (bent valves if broken belt.) You will need to use the Impreza Intake. 94 Legacy intake wiring is different, but otherwise engines are interchangeable.

Should bolt right in. might have to swap the seatbelt buckles to match car.

the brown connector with 2 pins is the Coolant Temp Sensor that the ECU uses to determine engine temp/control fans. The single spade one is just for the Temp gauge. ECU doesn't see it.

very possible. Confirm by doing a compression and/or leakdown. A burnt valve will show immediately. There is a tendency in today's computer controlled world to forget about physical problems and the use of old fashion Mechanical testing to determine.

can you post a pic of the port at the back of the block?

Glad you got the starting problem figured out. codes 11 and 13 are "ghost codes" that occur when the ECU sees key on and then back off, without ever spinning the motor.

Alright. Got the Impreza calipers with brackets. $160 for both including the core charges I had to pay. Got the 242mm rotors Got the Pads to fit the IMP brackets Got the 23 spline Imp axles Got the Xt6 control arms goin to try a mock up this afternoon. Hopefully with Pics.

making more complicated than it needs to be. Your procedure will make one move thorough double the rotations. Subaru heads have a spot where neither cam is trying to open any valves.. That's the point to use. As the OP suspected, the with Subaru heads the point to adjust valves is when the ALL valves aree closed. There is a point int eh rotation for a subaru head wher hits happens. Just make sure the valve are NOT being pressed by the cam lobes. That's the pint to adjust.

crap. Brackets alone are NLA for the 13" wheel Imp calipers. Got a line on whole calipers/ brackets included. Autozone lists them. Gonna order a set today and hope they actually come in. Anybody need 2 brand new base model 93 Impreza front calipers? I just need the brackets I think.