Jump to content

FerGloyale

Members
  • Content count

    510
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    43

Everything posted by FerGloyale

  1. This seems really wrong. From the OWNERS manual? or in a "Chiltons" or Haynes type serivce book, I can't believe Subaru ever said to do that. I've read alot of the owners manuals, obviously not from every year, but I've on;y ever read abuot the fuse for Spare use and always read NEVER tow any The fuse is for the donut spare, not towing.
  2. I think the word you are looking for is Japanese. The other way you said it is often used as a slur, not likely to be appreciated here. Also, USDM is their LARGEST and most profitable single market, I doubt they "hate it" Much more likely that the single port is more to do with US emissions and efficiency regulation.
  3. The FWD fuse is not for towing. If you read it that way, you are misreading the Owners manual. Subaru does not advise that, as it's useless without a running motor to drive the AT pump. Never dolly tow any Subaru unless you remove the driveline. Flatbed only. It is there for Donut spare use. Put the Donut on the back and run 2 matching tires on Front. Never use the donut on the front. Manuals trans cars don't have it because they are not electronic, and the basically open center diff in the MT cars will accommodate the tire size difference for a few miles at a time. You can run FWD on the AT cars as much as you want, but it doesn't really help Fuel economy, maybe 1 MPG at most. You are still dragging the rear diff and all it's weight around. I have FWD run to a toggle for convenience, and so I can replace tires in pairs rather than in 4's. I run FWD and then toggle into AWD when on gravel or snow.
  4. Does the Temp gague on the dash seem to be working normally? The reason I ask, is that he 3 pin Temp sensor is traingular, and if it somehow connected rotated to the wrong side (shouldn't be possible, but the tabs get broken) Then the CTS temp signal would be off and give you the code. Or is it possible you have swapped connectors for the Crank and Cam sensor?
  5. USDM EJ22 in 96 went to single port heads. 95 is still dual port. Here, the 95 EJ22E, from an automatic car (with EGR) is the preferred direct swap for 96-99 EJ25D As for Hydro/solid and interference, the solid here started in 97 and were interference. It's hard to say really though, because I've seen JDM EJ20E heads that were roller follower, solid adjuster rockers. And that was definitely an early 90s engine and non-interference.
  6. FerGloyale

    Justy ej22 engine swap

    Not even close. Justy uses 3 cyl, transverse mounted. EJ22 is longitude mounted. MAYBE with lots of fab, EJ22 and a matching trans could be hooked up to Justy axles.
  7. So I had these pics posted in the "longtravel outbacks" thread. but I thought that since this is really an EA81 build, I would start my own thread. This is T-bone T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So here is the old EA 81 rear setup. Tired torsions and extra plateing and liftblocks, along with teh already low hanging EA81 diff, make the rump roast of this guy the biggest problem. Breakin axles and stubs....can't find any more good axles, so it's time to go. IMG_2594 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had thought about using an early Leggy or Forester setup.......but that would require full on strut mounts in teh back...which woud be lots of fab that there isn't room for. So I'm using the entire rear setup from an 03 Outback. Fitted with a Welded spider, 3.9 internal stub diff. Working on finding a VLSD for longer term road trip use. But for wheeling trips it's gotta be linclon locked for sure. IMG_3451 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I modified this subframe to have equal length lower arms....hopefully better travel range possible once I get the right shock setup. For now it will use stock 03 outback shocks. IMG_3455 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3445 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3442 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3461 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the projected "full stuffed" point. IMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the forward mounting of the subframe. Built mounting off of the old EA81 6" lift block (there is an EA81 torsion tube section between the body and the blocks) IMG_3486 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3487 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting near ride height with wheels on. IMG_3489 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is resting on it's own shocks. Literally it's just sitting on them....haven't actually made the shock mounts yet. Also need to finalize the Front trailing arm mounts and the sliders for them that will tie into the front/center subframe I have built. IMG_3491 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  8. Tap to 7/16th and install a 7/16th stud. Or helicoil. More work, more expensive, but then you retain metric stud if that's REALLY important to you. For the $40 price difference, less work, and leaves more material for later and stronger (no helicoil) I use 7/16th stud.
  9. FerGloyale

    03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

    S'more pics of the modified control arms. IMG_3856 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3857 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3859 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3860 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3863 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3870 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3868 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Making the brackets for the second shock mount. IMG_3864 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3866 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3867 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3867 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr There is still trimming the edges and grinding, smoothing out. IMG_3869 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here is a side by side of an old factory length EA82 arm, with my old second shock bracket on it. Note on the new, longer arm, that the shock mount is moved further forward so the axle doesn't hit the shock. I almost forgot and put it were the old one was, which I think wouldn't work with the balljoint/axle pushed forward. IMG_3871 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3872 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3873 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3874 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I need to get a new tank of Oxygen and Acetylene for my torch. I want to heat and bend before welding around the back side. Also need to plate and weld the bottoms of the shock area with a slider. Neat that it worked out the drop pieces from the square tube center reinforcement, made perfect braces for the lower shock mount and the coming plate. IMG_3875 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  10. FerGloyale

    03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

    Just had to share the ridiculousness of the day. Making a cardboard mock up of the control arm mods to visualize where/how to cut/weld/extend the XT6 arms. Didn't intend to make anything so funny or dirty, but once it happened, my wife and I could not stop laughing for the rest of the night. I spit out beer twice laughing so hard. IMG_3854 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr You're welcome.
  11. FerGloyale

    03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

    And now back to the main event. 5 lug knuckles, with Impreza brake rotors + brackets, swapped for EA slider upper slide pins. New Balljoints. AND the big reveal........Modified 2011 Outback front struts fitted with 03 Outback rear springs! The '11 fronts and the '03 outback rear shocks have the same travel, and distance from spring perch to top, so the springs should be just the right length, And the rump roast of the 03 is pretty heavy, should hold my little EJ22'd EA body pretty well. IMG_3833 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Close up of the spring perch clearance. It only works with the knuckles tipped all the way "out" on the camber bolts. Should be fine though as it's going on an EA81 body. In fact I may need to slot the mounting tabs to tip the wheel out away from the strut even more if there is too much negative camber. Either that or build adjustment into the new front lift blocks for the tophats. IMG_3838 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3834 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr If these springs don't handle the weight of being in front, I can at least now use narrower springs, there are options for 4 runners that should fit nicely. But I am hopeful these outback springs will be just about right. I don't want the front too stiff. IMG_3837 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Nextup, Lengthen and beefup XT6 front control arms!
  12. I would be skepticall of that diagnosis. The rear diffs almost never fail unless they were run dry. Rear wheel bearings are more likely. You ratio is either 3.9 or 4.11. Probably 4.11
  13. FerGloyale

    03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

    Hi-jacking my own thread again. Spent the day yesterday with what began as a brake pad swap, but turned into this. Sorry for bad pic IMG_3825 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had been wanting and gather parts for this little endeavor for quite a while. Lateral links swap, and spacer lift for the top of the struts. I had also been toying with the concept of a "rear end tuck" by using Standard legacy cradle in place of Forester. IMG_3826 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3827 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr 2 out of 3 goals accomplished. And for the third, the cradle swap, I discovered good info. I had thought like Leg Vs. Outback that there was a difference in the cradle height between Legacy and Forester. In Outbacks, there is a spacer, I had thought that spacers worth of height would be built into the Forester cradle. But Forester body must be built different and uses a nice, tucked up cradle no spacer, no extra height. Sadly, there is not in terms of height or much else. Diff rear bolts on both cradles are exactly 4-3/4" below the mounting point on the unibody rails. So there was no good cause to swap the cradles. I went ahead and just swapped the lateral arms. Since I had deleted the rear swaybar, the brackets on the Forester links were just hanging down for nothing. The rear 1st gen Legacy links are stronger and don't have anything hanging down. The front links from the legacy are also stronger than he stamped steel forward arm from the forester. Pics are Legacy cradle at bottom, Forester cradle at top. Painted black arms are 1st Gen Legacy in position comparing to the Forester counterparts. IMG_3828 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is the final result, after the "brake Job" was done. 1" Front lift spacer, 1-1/2" Rear spacer. IMG_3830 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3829 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  14. FerGloyale

    1981 Hatch DL 4WD EJ22 Swap

    Cutting and welding the back end is the way to go. Good job. So much extra sheetmetal gone. That thing is gonna wheel awesome with that much tire and no lift. Might have a low walkover, but otherwise it's gonna be sweet, no lift block weight, no blocks to rip or bend. I admire this build for simplicity. Let's go wheelin when it's done. Brown's camp?
  15. yes that's definitive fault in the Alternator
  16. Short answer is no. Long answer is possibly with some fabrication of adapters or modification to the bumper itself.
  17. FerGloyale

    03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

    Hi-jacking my own thread here. Finally got back to the XT6 project car I've been stalled on. IMG_3815 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Took advantage of a nice day to to fire it and drive it up into the shade for the rear diff swap. IMG_3817 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr The car started obviously with the ER27 6cyl. But I've replaced that with a fully rebuild from the crank out EJ251. I also used the matching 4.44 auto trans from the donor 01 Outback the EJ came from. Air suspension delete using Legacy front struts and XT4 rear shocks and springs. Cybrid electric steering replaced with conventional EJ25 steering pump. But I've been driving it around the yard in FWD, because I had not swapped in a 4.44 rear diff. So here it is. Had to swap the spider gears into the 4.44 diff, as that ratio never came with external bolt in stubs. Sorry no pics of the spider swap just filling hte diff and stamped 4.44 on the cover. IMG_3818 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3819 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Terrible picture of the dropped 3.7 stock diff. IMG_3821 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  18. Ignore the mark on the plastic cover to some extent. Instead, line the mark up with the Cam Case to Head seam. This will also be exactly 12 0'clock. It's common for the plastic covers to be off a bit, resulting lining up at about 11:58, to continue the o'clock analogy. Can you take a picture standing back a bit? So we can see a reference to the whole engine a bit? My guess is you are off one tooth. Did the belt you used have marks alignment marks on it? If so how did those line up when you installed?
  19. If you paid for a warranty, use it. Have the yard where you bought it get you another trans. It's not working. That means you get another one. That's what warranties are for. It's also why I pull the pan on engines and trans before accepting them from a yard.
  20. FerGloyale

    03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

    Yeah the front and rear arms hang down alot further than axles. Here's proof. IMG_3779 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr These will be changed to heavy wall tube arms soon. Or not, maybe I'll just carry cheap, light and easy junk yard spares! Here is the bent axle before removal, there isn't a bash mark on it. You can also see from this angle, the axle sits higher than the suspension mounts and arms, and will travel further up "in" to the space between them on compression, so only a, thin, tall, odd rock could reach it. IMG_3780 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3781 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  21. My guess is the TPS is seeing it's fully closed value when you are at light throttle. I think this type has an initial "fully closed" switch built in that goes to ground when at idle, off throttle entirely. If that switch portion is closing too early, this causes the ECU to cut fuel for engine braking, then as you begin to press the accelerator a bit more in response to slowing down, you open the idle switch in the TPS and fuel kicks in again. Try the adjustment procedure for setting the TPS idle switch "fully closed" position.
×