Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by FerGloyale

  1. If that is true, well then you need not worry. The girls will stay far away from you. jk
  2. yeah, but it's really better to just drop the enitire thing. The risk of folding or qworse ripping it is too great with it hanging off of the middle rail between the glass panels. As you mentioned you need to remove the handles, the dome light, map light, seat belt mounts, and the a, b and c pillar upper plastic. Also, there are some large flat clips that pop out int eh middle of the roof, and 4 rectangular plastic clips that hang the center portion. To get to them you must open the sliding roof, and they are visible from above looking down at the rail between the 2 glass panels. Pull up on the center section of the clip, and then remove the entire thing. The benefit here is it allows you to access all *8* connections of the tubing to the drains. And it give you a chance to blow compressed air directly through the drain tubes with a positive seal for maximum pressure. At the rear there are just 2. In front, there are 2 connections of the rear roof rails to the drain tubes. Additionally, there are 2 more drain holes and tubes from the front roof tray. Those connect into a "T" and then there is a final connection of the drain hose in the a-pillar to those "T's" All of them can leak, I put clamps on all of them.
  3. FerGloyale

    Rear axle replacement

    duh. I should have read better. I swear I'm losing my ability to read and process information.
  4. FerGloyale

    Rear axle replacement

    I think what he's dealing with is a stuck stub in the diff. Here's what needs to happen. First, unboot the inner CV joint. Remove the inner lip circlip. Remove the shaft and inner race/cage. Now, clean grease out of the bottom of the cup. You wil be able to see the pressed in "plug" at the bottom. Drill a hole through it, sheet metal screw it and pull with puller. Or whatever else caveman you can do but get that plug outta there. Now you need an E10 "reverse" torx socket. 1/4 drive deep well is best. Use it to remove the bolt in the center of the diff stub that holds it into the diff. Now the cup and stub can be taken to a press and pressed apart. sometime requires heating the cup around the stub, but if so you won't want to reuse that cup.
  5. Congratulations! You've now made your cylinder temps higher, your oil more acidic, and your exhaust dirtier! Oh and yer intake air will now have lots more grit in it and be more likely to suck in water! So Much Winning!
  6. Just change the plugs. No spray cleaner is going to really do any cleaning of hard carbon on the pistons and valves. And there is really no need to replace injectors either. If they are working, no codes, normal fuel trims, etc, then they are working and replacing will just cost you money. Spend it on a few tanks of premium fuel and you'll get just as good a result.
  7. The tank is a "saddle" design, and relies on a siphon action in the return line to pull fuel from teh drivers side, over the hump, into passenger dside where the fuel pump/pickup is at. It is possible that the OP here has situation were the siphon is not picking up the drivers side fuel. Pull the fuel pump and inspect the siphon action.
  8. My EA81 wheeler has 3 harnesses! Original EA81 carbed wiring (w/headlight wiring routed through spare tire well behind engine, rather than under radiator) EA82 SPFI conversion for EA81 engine wiring with ECU under the column And EJ22 wiring from 93 legacy. ECU behind glovebox. I left the SPFI just "incase" I ever wanted to put an EA81 back in. Plus it's just easier to leave it rather than go through the trouble of removing.
  9. This is incorrect. There are only 2 temp sensors. The one for the gauge is a single prong. The 2 prong one is for the ECU. ECU controls fans based on this signal. EA cars have a thermoswitch in the radiator for fan control but EJ car that's been handed to the ECU to control via relay.
  10. FerGloyale

    My new Brat

    yeah, we never got the marker in the fender, just on the bumper. it's actually a light not just a reflector.
  11. FerGloyale

    My new Brat

    If it's really all original paint and mileage (which I totally believe looking at it.) it could be worth double that Original sticker price.
  12. FerGloyale

    Carb connector

    One of the 2 wires to that solenoid is a ground. The 3 wire has no ground. Swap connectors and or add an ring connector somewhere as appropriate.
  13. Man that's sweet. Inspiring me to check out my EA81. I've got a weird creaking cracking sound every time I go on/off throttle. Never broke a windsheild though. I might well do something similar to what you did here. It looks sick. I wouldn't put fenders back on! Maybe tie to that laterally behind the wheel down to the A-arm rear mount? Small tube or bar/strap even down from strut tower plate sistered against inner side of wheel well? To spread forces on the strut top down to the main beam under the floor. And maybe down the front of the wheel well to the tow hook area of main frame beam? Also please please don't get in a head on wreck now cause you've got zero crumple zones for energy absorption. Big G's gonna hit you if you have a head firster. Not just on you either you gotta really watch out for the dumb assholes out there now.
  14. Spark plugs? when they get bad, they cause awful bucking/cutting out under load.
  15. the taillight and the brake lights should both be part of the same rear facing red section of the fixture. Perhaps your bulbs have burned the "lo" filament out? Or maybe small town cops are very bored and screwing with a "hippie" subaru owner. (not saying you are just that some people have that perception of subie owners)
  16. FerGloyale

    Throttle cable routing

    You said 84 in the first post and in your other thread? Either way yes you've got the hitachi, and sounds like you got the cable routed correctly.
  17. FerGloyale

    Need help finding dash cover protector

    no look up 1984 Brat GL In 85 there were both EA82 and EA81 cars so that's were the confusion ussuallly starts. But all (2nd gen) Brats are EA81 so look for Brat covers not wagon.
  18. For the OP and cars mentioned here., Yes, you can use the 215/60/16 tires/wheels from the forester on the outback. (or vice versa) The Forester wheels have about 10mm less offset, so will stick out just a hair from where the OB wheels would. Still fits under the fenders though. Looks way better IMO. *note.....after 2000, Outback models MUST use 16" wheels and cannot use 15" forester or older outback wheels. The front brakes are too large.
  19. FerGloyale

    Throttle cable routing

    You;ve got a carter carb. Must be an 82. the hitachi carbs cable goes to the other side. his 84 will have a hitachi as the stock carb.
  20. 2 blacks will be the heater circuit. Not sure on the other 2
  21. no you need a 95-98 2.2 intake to make that swap wrok. and it won't have EGR
  22. yes just remove the flywheel and install the flexplate for the automatic.