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Everything posted by FerGloyale

  1. FerGloyale

    LED light bars

    Yeah, you guys are the exception to the rule in that I genuinely know you aren't dumb asses blinding people purposefully or not. You are aware drivers. A rare breed. I just don't have faith in the other millions of checked out drivers out there.
  2. test with proper mechanical gauge to confirm. If that is the case, you have very worn clearances in the mains r some other major oil system problem (oil pump relief?) Hopefully it's a electrical malfunction with the sender or dash gauge. wouldn't be surprising.
  3. Yes I know it's a Swapped harness. And that can be part of the Nuetral switch issue. Assuming you've still got the VW trans, what was done to connect it to a nuetral switch signal to tell the ECU wether it needs to keep the engine idleing? It needs to see a signal to allow fuel cut when in gear, but still rolling at zero throttle (for engine braking) TPS, VSS + Neutral switch position are what let the ECU wether to fuel cut for engine braking, or keep engine idling because you are about to be at a stop in neutral. You can use the AT/MT discriminator wire at the ECU to tell the ECU to be for "AT" where it will not be as sensitive about keeping idle. Engine braking may suffer slightly though.
  4. FerGloyale

    LED light bars

    LED light bars ARE NEVER legal on a public road. Whether you turn them off like high beams or not. They are for side x sides that only ever see trails. 20 years ago I remember people getting pulled over all the time just for not having their KC lights covered. It baffles me why now the police don't seem to care about these TOTALLY NOT DOT approved light bars that run the entire width of the damn trucks roofline. They are a major hazard. Hate them. Hate LED headlights too. Blinds the oncomong traffic, and doesn't project "deep" into the night very well. Sure things up close are brighter, but your far depth vision actually suffers for this. Now LED interior lights,....they are great......never have to come out to a dead battery just cause the trunk didn't get closed all the way!
  5. So I had these pics posted in the "longtravel outbacks" thread. but I thought that since this is really an EA81 build, I would start my own thread. This is T-bone T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So here is the old EA 81 rear setup. Tired torsions and extra plateing and liftblocks, along with teh already low hanging EA81 diff, make the rump roast of this guy the biggest problem. Breakin axles and stubs....can't find any more good axles, so it's time to go. IMG_2594 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had thought about using an early Leggy or Forester setup.......but that would require full on strut mounts in teh back...which woud be lots of fab that there isn't room for. So I'm using the entire rear setup from an 03 Outback. Fitted with a Welded spider, 3.9 internal stub diff. Working on finding a VLSD for longer term road trip use. But for wheeling trips it's gotta be linclon locked for sure. IMG_3451 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I modified this subframe to have equal length lower arms....hopefully better travel range possible once I get the right shock setup. For now it will use stock 03 outback shocks. IMG_3455 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3445 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3442 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3461 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the projected "full stuffed" point. IMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the forward mounting of the subframe. Built mounting off of the old EA81 6" lift block (there is an EA81 torsion tube section between the body and the blocks) IMG_3486 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3487 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting near ride height with wheels on. IMG_3489 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is resting on it's own shocks. Literally it's just sitting on them....haven't actually made the shock mounts yet. Also need to finalize the Front trailing arm mounts and the sliders for them that will tie into the front/center subframe I have built. IMG_3491 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  6. FerGloyale

    03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

    Plates mounted to the body via old modified lift blocks IMG_3520 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the other side, with the trailing bracket mounted. This allows positioning of the bracket before welding to the plate above. IMG_3522 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here' what I had to do to pull the brackets into place. Now that I know that I was using a bad number to measure from (4+ inches too narrow) I know why it was so hard to get them pulled in! lol Also, in this shot you can see the crossbar of my built subframe. With the diff now pushed about 4 inches further up into the body, that tube interferes with the driveline. Had to change that, pics in the next shot. IMG_3525 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the subframe tube with a new cutout and bracing IMG_3539 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here's the sliders connecting the subframe with the Trailing brackets. Too bad these are gonna have to change again when I reposition the brackets 2" further out on each side. IMG_3544 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3543 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here's some pics of the finished crossbracing for the main subframe. The added braces are kinda hard to see in the dark photos. IMG_3541 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3542 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the final height it will sit at viewed from underneath in the pit. IMG_3536 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a shot of what the trailing brackets look like from the side of the rig. These will need to change a bit, but basically haow it will be. Gotta move these brackets outward about 2 inches each. IMG_3546 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  7. Nuetral switch signal? Often causes idling issues when rolling to a stop. Also check air intake boot and all PCV hoses for any metered air leaks.
  8. Yeah if the wrist pin hole is blocked then the sleeve has spun. Good call to dump that block. That said, those 83 heads are still usable, big valves, and hydro lifters. The 81 you bought will be solid lifters, and small valves....might want to swap those out. FYI, also I have a good working 4spd D/R, rear diff, and driveline from an 84 wagon. I'd pass it on pretty cheap if you want it.
  9. FerGloyale

    ECS Light

    +1 Although I don't know if EA81 cars got them. Where would it be?
  10. FerGloyale

    ECS Light

    If it has a Weber then the computer and ECS light are doing nothing. Pull the bulb.
  11. FerGloyale

    03 outback rear suspension on EA81 - T-bone 2.0

    So, test drove yesterday. Could not get the toe correct, and it's pretty wonky over bumps. After investigation, I am afraid I set the trailing arm mounts too close together. I think this is causing the toe to change drastically as the suspension travels. Measured from centerline of the arm pivot, it SHOULD be at 46.6 inches. It ended up at 42.4 inches. Gonna be using the Plasma cutter a bit more I guess. on the upside, the added height and stiffer springs feel great. 14" clearance under the diff with a medium load. Of course I haven't put the rear skid back on so that weighs about 45lbs.
  12. #3 bit in an impact driver works every time https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-7-5-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-648002/204505142?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D25T|25-1_HAND+TOOLS|NA|PLA|71700000034127224|58700003933021546|92700031755124841&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrrmN28S54AIVCtRkCh2FaAYLEAQYBCABEgK7HfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds As an alternate, if you have just a #3 phillips bit, you can hammer that sucker in there. Then try turning with a socket on the bit. Helps seat it deep, and the shock from hammering on it often unsticks the screws.
  13. FerGloyale

    ECS Light

    Nothing. It's unused on 4wd models (which all brats are) Is it on? 2wd wagons/sedans, etc..had "feedback" carb, which could vary air bleed to adjust mixture based on O2 sensor. I don't think Brats ever got that setup MAYBE in California?
  14. hmm....I would want to see some #'s on a gauge. if the light comes back on again, I will bet for sure the pump backing plate is loose.
  15. Either the pickup screen is clogged with carbon deposit, OR the backing plate of teh oil pump is coming loose. If that's the case, you need to pull the timing belt and pull the oil pump off and check it's backing plate. Verify pressure with a gauge at the sender port. If low pressure, then inspect the oil pump. Good time to do timing belt if it needs it. If pump is good, then pull oil pan and inspect pickup tube/screen.
  16. $7 o-ring and a 15/16" socket. Change it with the oil change. You don't even have to unhook the coolant lines to it, just slip it down. If you really don't want to buy the appropriate water pump, you can get a thermostat housing from subaru that has a nipple on it and use that with the "regular" water pump. They are metal, not sure what models they were on but they are available.
  17. The water pump for the AT may need to have a return port for the oil cooler hose. Look at yer water pump, is there hose sticking out forward? If so you need that water pump but the rest of the kit is the same.
  18. The physical sensor at the trans yes, but the signal pulse wire that the ECU sees from the Speedometer is the same location. So if you id that wire, it should be the same MT vs. AT
  19. broken rear CV axle? very very unlikely it's the diff, unless it's just the stub.
  20. It didn't come with cruise? I think ALL USDM subaru's since the late 90's have cruise. Especially high end Forester such as turbos. At any rate, you should be able to access the VSS wire at the ECU (under right side footpanel) Not sure of pin or color for EU version.
  21. You're driving lights in the lower bumper are already wired that way (on with lows, off with Hi) and they are legal housings. You can adjust them outeward a bit to hit the sides of the road. Polish the headlight housings, and a good quality halogen bulb will be plenty bright. 3m makes a great polish kit.
  22. FerGloyale

    Drum Brake Help

    you can see the adjuster head in this pic. Just directly below the axle. 81EA81's advise is basically correct (above) I would add though..........the adjuster has a wedge on it's tip....this wedge sits into angled shims to make the adjustment. When turning it, you will feel the tension, and then the "seat" at only 2 points in it's rotation. don't leave it between the seats. Make sure you're turning it until it "sits" into one of it's two positions, as you go. Of course, it may be seized. It might be a good idea to pull the drums, and spray the shims and adjuster good with penetrant before trying to adjust.
  23. Straight water will boil at operating temp. you MUST add at least 30% coolant. Only use OEM rad cap. Get rid of the venting one. HG tests like you used are not effective in diagnosing subaru HG leaks. The fact that you keep getting air in the system is a clear sign that it is a HG leak. It DOES happen on 2.2s. Everyone always wants it to be something else, but 90% of the time an overheating subaru is a an HG failure.