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wysubey last won the day on November 28 2019

wysubey had the most liked content!

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About wysubey

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Jackson Wy
  • Referral
  • Biography
    Musician, Sound Engineer, Tinkerer
  • Vehicles
    1994 Loyale, 2006 Outback

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  1. wysubey

    Engine front re-seal

    Thanks all, successful operation here. Seems to have a bit less power than I remember, but it's idling smoother. I adjusted the spark timing to 20 degrees. How much pressure do you guys put on the tensioners? Just spring pressure and tighten the bolts, or do you apply hand pressure as well? Also, since the work, cold starts are not going until I disconnect and reconnect the battery. It clicks, but no crank. Warm re-starts are fine.
  2. wysubey

    Engine front re-seal

    No covers it is! Just finished cleaning the oil pump, waiting on my caliper to get here to check the rotor dimensions. New shaft seal is in, as well as crankshaft seal. headed to town for fresh camshaft seal carrier O rings. Whats the torque spec for oil pump sprocket? Haynes book doesn't say. Has anyone used oil compatible RTV to backup mickey mouse gasket?
  3. Car broke down before Christmas. Left timing belt tensioner threw its bearings and the belt skipped a few teeth. I ignored the squeaking too long. Previous TB replacement ~30k ago likely didn't replace tensioners. So, here I go on the re-seal odyssey. I have new cam & crank seals, idler sprocket, tensioners, timing belts, oil pump seals & water pump. Anyhow, there are a couple issues I want some feedback on. On the R side front of the engine by cylinder 1, there is some orange gunk at the head gasket joint. Any ideas what that is? No signs of HG failure from the rad cap or oil. The failed tensioner rubbed against the belt cover and wore it through. About 1" crescent. Should I worry about finding another cover? Duck tape to the rescue? Also, the R inner cover is a bit warped behind the cam sprocket and is rubbing slightly. Any other trouble areas to look at while I'm in there? Crossing my fingers the oil pump is OK.
  4. Same thing happened to me last week. Just died coasting into town after driving fine for 30m. Checked all the easy things on the roadside and then pushed 50yards into gas station. Really good place to break, but its a bad time of year to not have a garage. Any suggestions for brands to buy or stay away from?
  5. Success! The alternator was quite bad, tested only 10v at the store. They replaced it for free, very nice. New one charges right up to 14.2 and spins freely. Unfortunately the threads stripped on the lower mounting ear. The bolt was long enough so I just put a bolt on the backside. Pain to get to, but it works. Thanks Naru and Rampage.
  6. wysubey

    Electric fan for EA82

    Haha yeah it's not the cleanest setup! Just keeping the ol gal running until she rusts out.
  7. Thanks Rampage! Very helpful diagram, I've been a bit fuzzy on what the pins on alternator actually do. So, I unplugged the 2pin connector. Alligator leads with a larger bulb to +12v. Still weak charging. At this point I'm taking the alt back for testing Monday or Tues. I'm getting 8v on the lamp wire at idle and less than 8amps from the alt, 12.5v at the battery with only headlights and HVAC fan on 2. Tired of futzing with this especially with the weather turned cold. I want my seat heater ASAP!
  8. wysubey

    Happy Thanksgiving!

    Happy Thanksgiving all!
  9. wysubey

    Check engine light help

    Yes, sounds like EGR. On mine, I determined that the solenoid was clogged and burned out and replaced it with OEM style. Check the impedance on it and see if it clicks nicely when you connect to 12v.
  10. Ok, so I'll check into putting a bigger wattage bulb, or put a resistor in parallel with the bulb to reduce the impedance. The voltage drop of .1 for the replacement diode seems low enough, but its only a 1a rated rectifier diode. Should be enough, given that 12v to the L terminal is pulling 1a exactly. Is there a way to test the field winding without dismantling the alt? Unfortunately I traded in the original already.
  11. wysubey

    Check engine light help

    +1 for DaveT and CTS issues. One of the first things Dave helped me with. Didn't realize the codes blink without test mode.
  12. So I put 4oz of Seafoam in the oil, and it made quite a difference! Could tell almost immediately when the stuff made it to the offending HLA, since then it only ticks for less than 5 seconds on really cold starts.
  13. wysubey

    Check engine light help

    Oh! Long flashes are the first digit, short flashes are the second.
  14. wysubey

    Check engine light help

    Congrats on finding a 1 owner Loyale! Thats totally sweet. Mine is all rusty but I still love it and it runs great. To read CEL codes, yes you plug in the green connectors. Then you have to take off the panel directly under the steering wheel to get a visual on the ECM. There's a little hole on the top that you can see a red LED which flashes your code. Kinda a pain in the butt to get your head in there to read it. Here's a paste of Loyale CEL codes. Not sure where I found this but it has proven accurate for my rig. 88 and later models with Single-Point Fuel Injection 11 Crank angle sensor or circuit 12 Starter switch or circuit 13 Crank angle sensor or circuit 14 Fuel injector – abnormal output 21 Coolant temperature or circuit 23 Air flow meter or circuit 24 Air control valve or circuit 31 Throttle sensor or circuit 32 Oxygen sensor or circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor or circuit 34 EGR solenoid or circuit 35 Purge control solenoid or circuit 42 Idle switch or circuit 45 Kick-down control relay or circuit 51 Neutral switch continuously in the on position 55 EGR temperature sensor or circuit 61 Parking switch or circuit So far, I've had codes 34, 32, and 21. All fixed now without too much trouble or cost, except wrenching the extremely stuck O2 sensor out. As for RPMs, those can change quite a bit depending on the engine temp. If its below freezing and I drive right away without any warm up, the first couple stop signs it will idle as high as 2k. Once it's warmed up, the spec is 700rpm for idle with the test mode connectors and no accessories.
  15. wysubey

    Electric fan for EA82

    Starting at the battery, here's a fuse holder connected to Postitive with a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse. This fan draws 6.6amps. Then, at the center of the radiator is the relay, with that positive wire connected to the common terminal which is green on this socket. Make sure to get a >10 amp rated relay. Black coming up from fan goes to chassis ground. Blue wire from fan connects to Normally Open terminal. Then the coil wires keep going to the right side of rad and connect to... The existing radiator fan wires. When the factory fan kicks on, it energizes the coil on relay, which switches on power to the add on fan.