rotamonkey

I think you will find most race orgs call for a catch can as an environmental thing so you aren't spewing oil over the ground. This is why I got the catch can in the first place. I do think you are right about circulating back to the engine being a no go. The small amount of overflow I had been getting on concurrent runs was contaminated. Just empty the can occasionally and call it job done.

Thanks, I followed my original plan which is mostly the same I think, breather on top of catch can. I am running a Smallcar low profile pan that doesn't have a terribly clear oil level indication system. After a few more follow-up runs didn't have anywhere near the same level of oil getting caught. Get the feeling that the engine was just dumping some excess oil.

Thought I'd ask how other people have gone about the PCV delete on the Subaru's. Running an EG33 and I'll admit I took the sledge hammer to it. Ran block offs everywhere. Cylinder heads etc, but after a few runs its been pretty clear that I'm seeing significant crankcase pressure and the catch can is filling up. Comp test is good and in general leakdown seems OK so at this point I am calling this reasonable leakage (pending results of further runs). After and hour or two of punishment I was seeing no less than 250ml leakage with blocked off head PCV oil exit ports and crankcase plumbed to catch can, which seems excessive. performance and general stats were good. I thought I would ask, is there a better way of setting up the PCV Delete, maybe equalizing between left and right heads by installing a bridge hose between the two heads? I notice this is how it is setup on the later turbos. If the results continue to be good, I'm thinking of plumbing the drain of the catch can to the sump with some type of filter/ air/ oil separator configuration. Does anyone have experience with this, is there a general consensus for how this should be done?

Thanks, Opposed Forces definitely did the job, for those interested it looks like the P/N's for the female trans side axles are: 28321FE041/ 042 28321FE061 28321FE092 Looks like there are a ton of variations but the later numbers seem to be later model variants, roughly $400 AU Each brand new. Edit: unfortunately there seems to be a few lengths of Subaru axle shaft, some with an inch or less difference without other visual changes. Be careful with part numbers... be sure to check your exact application.

After some running around Ive grabbed some OEM second hand for now. Problem is to get the female connection at the transaxle side you are looking at CVs that are from cars near 20 years old and there aren't so many still around in the wreckers here. Subaru cant supply any part numbers without a VIN so Ive been struggling to get anything direct. Does anyone have a breakdown of part numbers by any chance.

Only running 30" tires, it is a small buggy. I was hoping that there would be some 300m / cro-mo replacements or something like that but as you say, better for the CV to snap than anything else. Time for a trip to the wreckers. Ill check the Cardone axles out as well. Thanks a ton.

Thanks for the heads up. I will give the OEMs a go before I start looking for smaller wheels and tires. Spline counts were fine the axle itself must just be useless material, bad heat treating or something, snapped like a toothpick from flat on loose dirt. Failed where the inner axle (not the trans side) meets the CV.

Interested to know if anyone has had any luck finding decent replacement axles? Finally got my subaru buggy out and the axle sheared on the shakedown. Is there anything bulletproof we can get that isn't custom? Edit: these were the SB8001HD axles, both failed in the same way within 3 months, not the CV's the axle material is the problem. Both snapped.