scoobydube

Try replacing a couple key relay switches beneath the dash, to the left of the steering column, that keep the engine running. You can figure it out when the engine is running, by pulling the relay switches one at a time. Stick with genuine OEM switches.

Do not buy DENSO relay switches off of EBAY, because the two switches that get real hot, put off noxious fumes inside the car.

Go back to the basics of new plugs, new distributor cap or scrape off the corrosion on the points inside and inspect center pin for wear, sandpaper the rotor top and tip, check the plug wire ends for corrosion, check the timing, replace the ground wire or check it for getting hot at the connection to the frame. If hot then replace it. Adjust the mixture to optimum. Check the connection to the alternator for rigid wire at the alternator end that loses conductivity as hit heats up. Replace the relay switches inside of the left end of the dash over your left knee.

The fix is to jack up the car at the hinges with both front and rear wheels off of the ground. Then put one person on the front bumper and one on the rear bumper area, and bounce the car until you bend the frame back to where it used to be. Do only a little bit of bouncing at a time, and then recheck.

It depends on your winter time temperatures. If you regular drop below 20 degrees F in winter, then that 5W -20W would be a good oil in winter. In summer, back to the 10W-40W for me.

I bought a set of the LED headlight bulbs that was deemed directly compatible with my OEM headlight bulbs. Big mistake. My digital dash went haywire and the engine began cutting out and otherwise ran poorly. Then the below dash relay switches were overheating and burning out. Finally, I realized that those LED's were screwing up my car big time, but only after I changed out my distributor, coil, cap and fusible links in a rain storm. Now I am back to the the OEM bulbs, have installed all new relay switches, and keep a handful of spare relay switches to pop in if I have any further problems. 524,000 miles on my 86 gl10 turbo.

How about bent frame from going airborne?

Yes, the original trim was a T-type with a very shallow embedded portion. It still is a source of a leak. Don't use any trim. Form the new trim with RTV sealant and your windshield won't leak.

How about ball joints?

Sure, grease will hold it in place for assembly. But what I was referring to was when the engine oil heats up over and over again, it expands the rubber of the seal and then causes it to buckle inward and break the oil seal, causing oil to leak out onto the oil pan and drip onto the ground at a prolific rate.

If you are talking about the outer trim corners, you don't need them because you can shape them by filling in the corners with RTV sealant and using painting tape to form the round edges.

BTW, you don't need to change the rubber seal. It is the outside trim that is the impossible to find and generally defective design that you would want to use RTV sealant as a substitute while you are using it as a base to set the windshield on.

You could buy 2 of them and chop them up to piece them together and get a complete fit. The windshield sets on the sealant, which auto supply shops do not sell the primer,so the sealant won't stick to the frame if you don't use the primer. The trim is not available either so you either have to use your old jagged pieces or just use the RTV black sealant to make it look like you have trim. The worst of your problems however, is the metal windshield frame at the base/ bottom/front of the windshield, which is usually mostly rusted out. Hopefully you have enough remaining to hold the BONDO GLASS that you are going to use to restore the original tray shape and allow that Bondo to seep through all those holes and the catch the flow through with a sagging duct tape form in order to provide a mechanical attachment for the Bondo to the metal frame.

I accidentally discovered my oil leak when I changed out the oil pump. The old mouse eared gasket again got hot, expanded and buckled inward, so as to then pump oil straight outside of the gasket containing boundary. For my new mouse eared gasket install, I RTV'd the offending portion of the gasket in place, so that it cannot buckle and leak. My mysterious engine oil leak then completely disappeared.

The T-type trim is inherently leaky since the embedded portion is a pathway for the water to find the bottom edge of the glass, causing a leak. I used RTV black silicone along both the top and bottom and kept the factory trim look by using some paint edging tape to make a perfect edge. Although I reused the corner trim pieces, I would not have needed to since I also could have produced a perfect corner with the edging tape and RTV. The original trim is no longer available anywhere. You can get some T-type trim from Rock Auto, but it is going to cause a leak. The bottom edge of your subaru windshield frame is probably rusted out pretty good. You can reform the original metal frame with BONDO - FIBER. The holes in the existing trim will allow the bondo to flow through and get a grip on the old metal. You can form the bottom free edge of your new drippy Bondo, with some duct tape that you allow to sag between the edges so as to form a continuous back side surface that keeps the new upper flat Bondo surface in place.