thunder52

Half way worked with old fans. Did test ground to: Old fans----Pass to left pin-1.2 ohm -- center pin-0 ohm Driver to left-.5 ohm --center--1.0 ohm known good fans----Pass to left pin- .5 ohm---center-1.0 ohm Driver to left- .5 ohm --center-1.0 ohm Conclusion? Bad fan holding signal to ground, and lighter fuse blown. YMMV Thought I would send this to add to the body of knowledge if it helps.

TA-DA (So fat) Got under the dash to see if any aftermarket stuff was wired to fuse box and found the mirror/lighter fuse was blown. Replaced it and all works! Last test is to reinstall the customer fans and test. Don't know where that system comes into play' Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion. (and what about Mary Ann?) Jon

I might rig something up if it was mine, but this the fishing car for a couple of ladies, (In their 70's) Don't want it to overheat and croak. (The car, not them)

thanks for the come back. Still no luck. I have now also swapped out the fans with other know good. Also for ghits and jiggles I installed NEW ects. All fans, old and new, power up fine. After the fan swap, things changed somewhat: Ignition in run- no fans Start engine a/c on or off- pass fan on Back to RUN-a/c on- pass on, driver on then off Back to RUN-a/c off- pass still on Key off- fan off Rinse, repeat With that one fan running constantly I can't get temp over 184 Battery disconnected overnight, and confirmed green test connectors not connected. Thanks, Jon

Thanks. That is the way I figured it. Just can't see the where the a/c switch engages the fan system. Looking for something in that circuit that would interrupt operation. Just tested with engine running and a/c engaged (and stays engaged): Both fans connected- fans cycle Passenger disconnected- driver cycles Driver disconnected- passenger cycles Both disconnected- passenger side has constant hot on yellow/red, no power to drivers side Ground is constant on all tests on both sides. Thanks for taking time to help me. Jon

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, complaints are all for either on, or off. I try to think of the system as mechanical, or electrical. I.E. the a/c test bypasses the sensors, and the ect test uses the sensors. Trying to find the physical link in the diagram for the a/c system to turn on fans, but it only gets me to the mode control with no information on what connects with what inside. Both fans do work on both speeds. I will try disconnecting fans and use test light to see if circuit stays live or not. Don't know if the a/c evap temp sensor comes into play or not. Been poring over the diagrams for a couple of days trying to figure routing. Jon

1998 Outback, 2.5, auto. Neither cooling fan will stay on when commanded, engine hot or cold. Everything I have found when searching is about the fans either not coming ON, or not shutting OFF. They run and cycle with test connectors. They will come on for about 3 seconds when temp reaches ~203F, and/or when a/c is turned on and engaged and then shut off. Have checked all fuses, swapped out all relays (under hood and under dash), swapped 2 wire coolant sensor, and swapped ecu. No joy. All swaps were with known good parts. What would be causing system to lose signal? Also when they start with a/c, there is about a 2 second lag between a/c clutch engaging and fans starting. (Then fans stopping, but clutch still engaged) As an aside, does anyone know what all the cooling relays are called, and what location is which? Service manual says a/c relay in a/c holder, sub-fan 1 in f/b, sub-2, main-1, main-2 in a/c holder. Okay fine, but under hood cover calls all under hood ones "a/c relay". I think I figured out which is which, but confirmation would be helpful. Thanks, Jon