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Datnastybrat

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Posts posted by Datnastybrat

  1. Dropped the fuel pump mounting plate and found two pumps and the vapor separator. FP was wired to the ignition relay. I'm going to re-wire a new universal pump like factory to the f.p. relay and can I delete the vapor separator? Which will delete the charcoal canister and I'll need to plug up vacuum and purge points. Also put a breather on one of those lines. Anybody do the same thing?

     

    I know it would probably shut off on cold start unless you keep your foot on the accelerator until it starts. I don't care about that as long as the engine bay looks cleaner.

     

    Don't mind the fuel lines in the picture. 

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  2. 23 hours ago, naru2 said:

    429487000 is OEM.It is NLA.

    It is a secret # not even in the Subaru parts book except for the index.

    There are used ones at the wreckers if you look hard enough.

    I am almost certain that the 2 wire ea82 sensor (22060AA000)used in 85/6 that steptoe mentions is identical except for the addition of a plastic barrel around the pins that allows fitting a better  connector.

    429487000 is also white plastic 2 pin,FWIW.

    You could use 22060AA000 by changing connectors or modifying the barrel portion of the sensor.

    Here is a cheap $10 aftermarket one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Knock-Detonation-Sensor-AS10088-For-Subaru-GL-10-XT-GL-RX-1995/380876594751?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Knock-Detonation-Sensor-AS10088-For-Subaru-GL-10-XT-GL-RX-1995/380876594751?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

    Thank you! You guys are awesome! I'll order it and try it out. Post updates when I get done upgrading some of the wiring

  3. 3 hours ago, sparkyboy said:

    Ok, this is coming from my vault of second gen camaro knowledge...lemme find it. Ok here it is file 3 of 4 :P

    but my fuel gauge (77 camaro) was stuck at about 1/4 turn past full no peg or it would have been so!

    I checked resistance and sweep of the sending unit and all good. It turned out to be a bad ground.

    Is the sensor bad? Any stinking boost sensor that is close to the resistance of your old one will work, yeah? Maybe just a wonky wire somewhere since it goes back to zero with no key?

    it has an aftermarket boost gauge on the steering wheel, I don't like it. Its not wired correctly discretely and doesn't seem to be too accurate I think. I want the stock gauges to be in good working order.

  4. 9 hours ago, naru2 said:

    The turbo gauge simply replaces the oil pressure gauge in a GL dash.Everything else is the same.

    The sensor is a semiconducter strain gauge w/a variable voltage output.Hitachi PS 14-01.

    Mine outputed slightly low voltages last time I tested it resulting in slightly low gauge readings.

    Seems back to normal now,but,I have not retested.

    The meter being pegged at the top seems more like a gauge than sensor issue in this case,but,maybe not.

    The sensor should output between 2.162 to 2.213 volts at atmospheric pressure when powered by 13.5 volts @ 77 degrees F.

    The gauge should read zero w/this voltage applied.

    I used a bicycle pump and a vacuum pump to test the system at other pressures.

    ill be conducting tests on the sensor and if that turns out ok, ill try the gauge. Really wish it was a mechanical gauge and not electric. Thank you for the input.

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