fredsub

I have this prob on 98 OBW. confirmed the reverse switch on the MT is functioning by accessing the connector in the engine bay. Applying 12V with a wire to the white/red wire has the back-up/reverse lights alight. Checked every fuse in the side panel - all ok. the wire diagram doesn't show a relay....but somewhere the brown/yellow (in the engine bay) must convert to the white/red under the dash (and to the rear)........... f*****in wiring!! how much needs to be pulled apart?

yes,its dual range manual, '98 Outback. Cannot maneouvre a full size spanner down there,rather not have to pull the exhaust off, so figure cut a cheap one in half, just need to know what size i need, i bet all the VSS are the same? at least hex part for spanner.

What size spanner is required to extract the VSS? 17mm ? I can't fit one down there, exhaust an stuf is in the way, so thinking of getting some $1 cheap spanner and cutting it in half. Thanks

Thanks fellas for replies........I've already driven with the rear axles removed, so thats no problem at all...and wow it actually feels nice to drive too:burnout: I guess with that "driveline assembly" not being forced to be rotated has actually given the ol'thing a few extra horses;). And yeah the Gregories describes them as "propeller shaft", but then I wouldn't hold them too high on technical accuracy on that (and alot else!).

'85 DL 4WD wagon I want to remove my rear diff, and still be drivable, anyone done this? Its only for a temporary measure wilst i sort out either welding the diff, or maybe a lsd diff may show up. So far i'm informed if the half shafts are removed, oil from the gear box will rush out, so damn thats no good. The half shaft has a centre bearing, what if I only remove the diff end half shaft, leaving the gearbox end still in, would that work? Theres bolted flange on the diff end, so looks easy to split it. Thanks any suggestions Err,sorry, I should be calling this the propeller shaft - but it is a split shaft type, so 2 half shafts.....

I have established by experiment that if you run the N/A dizzy in the ea82turbo, you still set the static timing advance at ~8deg. You do need the turbo dizzy to use the ~20deg static advance setting, as this dizzy works completely differently in how its vacuum advance mechanism seems to work.

just out of interest, how is the gas cap test performed? so they test emission thru the entire rev range and under load do they? so turbos on boost too:-\ hope to hell we never get such stupid nazi gov regs..

How did the split boot work out? where did you get them?

I think,I doubt Electrically the ECU could retard the advance the whole range ,say 45deg typical, due to mechanical limitations of where the contacts are, I think I had info b4 that -15deg is the max retard, and its only from knock...not as part of the normal advance curve ? the dizy would be the earlier one i'd say?, 85-86, no optical cam angle sensor etc... Would it be correct then, if using the NA dizy, then the advance should be set at 8-10deg?

Does anyone have the dizy advance curves for both the turbo dizy (the older one with vac advance) and a normal dizy? maybe its in the FSM ? (i don't have it) Anyway I am running a NA dizy in the ea82t, but now also have a ea82t dizy, it will probably need to be re-curved etc (as I had disassembled it for look-see)...I'd like to understand it a bit more first... For instance wondering why there is such a big difference for the static timing for the engines ea82 - 8deg vs ea82t - 20deg - thats alot of advance at what is 0"...so going into boost >+0" surely the advance must be falling, otherwise pinging results, no ? (ignoring the knock sensor part of it) I had run it at 8deg for years (out of ignorance), but now at 20deg, performanc is not really that flash - or it really needs the turbo dizy for this ??

" i want to get rid of everything to do with emissions." hehe, people like you give the anti-pollution/emission Nazis more ammunition to introduce laws like California everywhere...every once in a while hearing rumours about it from rego inspectors here in Aus for smog testing...I dread the day....reading the stories about people with Cali smog probs is very scary, but with the Greenies getting vote buying here, more and more stupid things are becoming law - so watch out, you only get what you deserve. Just what exactly is the point of removing the evaporative/purge control system other than to stick your finger up at everyone else and say "f u, I'll put my *** slag anywhere I like" Surely any fuel vapour or not, is best used for driving your car down the road - not venting to atmosphere for no damn good.

the result is ok; been running the standard hitachi dizzy for years; I had the static timing at 10-12degrees tho:slobber: , as I didn't know that the static timing for the ea82t is supposed to be 25degrees!! But at least I didn't seem to have any pinging problems and standard unleaded, maybe the response wasn't so good from start, but once its reving and goin in boost the power does really come on - bit confused how this ties up with whats happening with advance in this case? trying static timing of 20degrees atm - around town its great, up the mountain, high load, hmmm not so sure..started to get some ping so backed off.

additional comment; as you can discover the axle thread is so easily damaged with even just a little persuasion on it. Heres the tip, put the castle nut back on in reverse and screw it in flush with the axle. now you can use any tool of persuasion, conical spacer - one good tap and its out, etc - no risk to thread. You can really go at it and have no damage. another tip; a big shifter works really well to move the axle/castle nut. 18"er will do. its very easy to balance a shifter so you just stand on its end, makes it a light almost no effort job. about changing the boot without pulling the axle; there is already so much effort in preparing, to pull the axle off entirely is very simple after that - look at it this way - do your back a favour. And if you can access a bench vice for the job thats the way to go every time.

wow what a forum this is, that was my first post and I get an answer to this sort of question!! many thanks naru, thats just what i needed to know

I haven't got a subaru ECU, and so trying to work out how the turbo dizy works; This one has reluctor sensor and vac adv unit; the 4 wires: yellow blk/white blk/yellow blk/red so far I think yellow - wire to (-) side of coil (ie "points!") blk/white - 12V Batt I hooked up the dizy to a electric motor; connected the Yellow thru a 100ohm resistor to +12V. I get a 10V square wave signal on the Yellow and a in phase 1Volt square wave on blk/red; I suppose blk/yellow and blk/red go to a knock control, but does anyone have any insight as to how the knock control does its job? what signaling it does? what signal should be on that blk/yellow? I don't have a knock control unit to test it myself. mighty thanks to anyone who has this sort of teci info on this dizy