bratboy1
-
Posts
80 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by bratboy1
-
-
Hey everyone,
I have a 91 legacy ej22 that I swapped into my 82 brat and I am working through some issues of fuel in the oil. I am not sure if I crossed some vacuum lines and that is the issue, does anyone have a diagram of the vacuum lines for a 91 legacy L 5spd? I can only find ej22T diagrams online.
Thank you!!
-
On 11/8/2021 at 9:11 AM, Numbchux said:
Possible, but unlikely. More commonly it's a wiring issue.
Key on, engine not running, the check engine light should be on. If this doesn't happen, 99% of the time the ECU is not being turned on (getting all the power/ground that it needs).
If you're at your whit's end. Spending some money to modernize the system wouldn't be a bad idea. But it's a big job to get it installed and tuned.
Thanks for the insight. I am going to take a look at the vacuum lines to see if I routed a line incorrectly and that is causing it... but if that doesn't work then I will have to modernize it I think.
I appreciate all the help throughout this process, I have definitely learned a lot from you and the others here!
-
On 9/29/2021 at 9:05 AM, Numbchux said:
There's a "read mode" wire at the ECU. Ground that, and it will flash trouble codes on the check engine light (can be done with a test light at the ECU, as well).
Hey Chux,
I got one of those test lights and I tried the ports on the ECU and I could not get a light to pop up unfortunately. Do you think I need to explore getting an aftermarket ECU?
-
On 9/13/2021 at 4:29 PM, Dee2 said:
Does this engine setup have a mass air flow (MAF) sensor on it ? If so, disconnect it and see if the engine runs better or worse. If it has a MAF that is malfunctioning, it could be calling for too much fuel.
If it doesn't have a MAF...never mind.
On 9/14/2021 at 3:34 PM, Numbchux said:The diagram makes sense, and actually, I just finished setting up something similar on my Tacoma, which I intend only to use around the yard. As such, I wanted to use a small plastic marine fuel tank, which does not have a return fitting. When the system is disconnected for some reason (or the tank is run low enough to suck air), it gets air into it, which can only escape through the injectors/engine. So it runs very poorly for several minutes, and requires many restarts before it clears up. Your symptoms sound a bit like that. It's not correct, but it should work.
It's fantastic news that your return line reads no pressure. But the supply should get a bit more than 30 psi (you did say "about" 30, so maybe it's getting to 36ish), and it should hold pressure for quite awhile once the pump is off. This is held by the pressure regulator and a check valve in the fuel pump. It doesn't explain your fuel in the oil issue, but it might explain the running issue if you're having trouble with the fuel pump. I also installed a low pressure fuel filter between the tank and pump to protect the pump from debris.
I skimmed through here and didn't see it. Was it ever determined if there are any trouble codes? It's possible it's been trying to tell you what's wrong the whole time.
Hey guys...
So this weekend I was able to work on it again. Inline pressure was at like 30-31 and stayed there constantly. Once I turned the car off, it would drop to 10psi in about 10 mins, but then stay at 10psi for over an hour.
I disconnected the MAF and it started up better than before and died after a little with no throttle. I would give it some gas and it actually would run and idle fine. So idk if it's the MAF but I figured I would order one and can always return it.
Chux- That is reassuring that the fuel setup is not complete garbage lol. Also I did spray started fluid around the vacuum lines and didn't see a jump at idle which is good.
I don't have any way to look at the error codes, it was not an OBD2 and when installing the ECU and harness I really didn't know what I was going and I think I may have cut out the double diode, or whatever else can be used to see error codes. Big rookie mistake I know, kicking myself for that one. Even if I had the complete harness, could I still see codes without the gauge cluster?
Thanks guys!!
-
On 8/16/2021 at 10:34 PM, Step-a-toe said:
so, an update would help
On 8/18/2021 at 12:13 AM, Ionstorm66 said:If the vac line off the FPR smells like fuel then you have fuel in the vac system, which is bad.
Sounds like a real pain. If your in Tampa I can swing by and take a look next time im out that way. I'm like 2 hours away.
Hey guys,
Sorry for the lack of updates, I've just gone through a move and haven't had time to look at the brat recently.
In July, I took the car to a show, with the current problems. I was able to drive it there with fuel in the oil, and on the way back it died on me in the middle of the drive after feeling like it lost vacuum pressure. It would jerk and sputter and limped the last little bit home.
Since then I am able to start the car, and drive it around the neighborhood. When I park it, and leave it for a bit it will struggle to turn over. I can maybe get it to turn over 1-2 more times that day before it doesn't turn over.
I hooked up a pressure gauge on the inline side and one on the return side. The return side was sitting at 0 psi and the inline side was about 30. It dropped pretty quickly after the car shut off too.
As of now, I have new a new coil pack, fuel injectors (tested for flow), fuel pressure regulator, new inline side fuel lines, and I am using the old inline side fuel line as the return line. I take the little line off the FPR and it doesnt really smell like fuel but I can look again. Step-a-toe, where exactly would you put the hard acrylic line on the FPR? Would it be that really tiny line that goes from one barb to another on the FPR, or after it closer to the intake manifold?
Also someone at the car meet recommended me showing how my fuel system is set up so here is how it set up. I took the return line and put it on a brass T with the line from the tank and going to pump. The return line barb on the gas tank was so small I couldn't get a hose to reduce down from the 5/16 lines to size https://ibb.co/f44gmdw Please let me know if I need to put up a new link
Thanks for hanging with me on all this, I am hoping this can get fixed soon. I should have a weekend coming up to mess with the car since i live over an hour away from it.
Ionstorm that would be dope if you ever swing down, I would love a second opinion on the car and maybe i am overlooking something big. I'll for sure hook it up with some good local brews if that is what you're into
-
On 4/26/2021 at 10:17 AM, Numbchux said:
I would correct this. That's almost certainly exacerbating the problem as it sounds like it's still pumping fuel into the engine when it's not running. There is zero good to running the pump longer than the ECU wants it, and plenty of risks.
I would recommend wiring up the self-shutoff control like it should be (that's what one of those diodes is for).
Jumper the read mode connectors (or, ground the wire from the ECU if those connectors are gone), and the CEL will flash out codes.
Yea, figure out if it's just flooding one cylinder. Check the vacuum line after the FPR for fuel. Grab a noid light to see if the ECU is holding that injector open.
On 4/29/2021 at 2:06 AM, Step-a-toe said:You know what Steptoe would try here??
The FPR vacuum line, suspecting fuel leaking from FPR to intake via the vacuum line....find a small, clear, hard acrylic fuel filter used for small engines and fit it in line in the vacuum line. You will need to sleeve tubes to make it work and hold vacuum for sure, but you should be able to monitor any fuel loss
Hey guys,
I just wanted to post a little update, I still am going to try a few things more but here is what I did so far:
New fuel lines
New FPR
Remanufactured injectors- tested them as well
-----------
This weekend I did what you suggested, Numbchux, I basically wired in the relay for the fuel pump and it works, you can hear it prime when I turn the key a bit and then will hold off until the car cranks.
I took the plugs out and they were pretty black, I cranked it with the plugs out and the fuel pump disconnected and there wasn't any fuel shooting out. Changed the plugs and the oil, and same thing happened. I started it fine, then 30 mins later it struggled, then another 30 mins it wouldn't turn over.
Tried an hour later, wouldn't start, then I took that little tube off the back of the FPR. There was no fuel in it, it smelled like fuel though. I am not sure if that was too long after running for me to look but I can. Not sure if that was even the right tube to look at but I will look more the next chance I get. Also working on getting a noid light to check the injectors.
I think that is everything so far, does it seems like I am missing a piece to the puzzle still? I appreciate all the help you guys are awesome and I couldn't do it without you!!
Thanks!
-
On 4/16/2021 at 6:53 AM, Ionstorm66 said:
If there is a vacuum line going to the FPR disconnect it and plug the engine side vaccum line.
Did you hook up any of the EVAP system if the car has it? If so do the same for it.
After those two it has to be injectors.
Did the oil smell like fuel before you tried to start it? If so then leaky injectors. If not ecu is flooding for some reason, pull codes.
On 4/16/2021 at 9:53 AM, Numbchux said:Yes, running 10 feet of 5/16, and then necking it down to 3/16 defeats the purpose. T it into the vent line or something (I've been reading up about converting our boat to EFI, and this is generally how it's done). But yea, for testing purposes, into a separate container is fine (you know, fire hazard and such).
It won't turn over at all? If so, it may be hydrolocked. Try turning it over by hand, if not, pull the plugs and crank it.
Does the ECU control the fuel pump? Or is it staying on when the engine isn't running?
I've been approaching this as if it's been just running really rich. But if it's actually filled the cylinder and hydrolocked the engine, then fuel is getting in while the engine is off.
On 4/16/2021 at 10:00 AM, 1 Lucky Texan said:after it sits, pull some plugs and look for the wet cylinder.
Alright guys I haven't had a chance to do anything yet but I just wanted to reply and answer some questions...
Ionstorm: I will try the FPR method. Also not sure what the EVAP system would be, but that black emissions canister that goes with the engine I have left off and the lines that it hooked on to are open. Didn't think that was an issue, but I can try capping those lines and/or putting the canister in. Would that make a difference?
The injectors are new rebuilt injectors that I took and got them tested and they are not leaking.
Numbchx: Yeah when my friend came to look at it he was like seriously dude? There is no way that's gonna work lol. I have a brass tee that I was going to put on so I will try that out when the return has a tee fitting that hooks up to the intake side and the line from the tank. The ECU does not control the pump, I have the pump wire to the electronics so when I turn the key to run the lights and whatever the pump turns on (and rad fan). If I want I can run the fuel pump for however long before turning on the engine.
Lucky Texan: I will do this when I get the chance next.
Do you guys think it may be my ECU or am I missing something? I was thinking of going to standalone but I was unsure of that route so trying to remedy this would be my first option. Also this is a phase one ej22 so no OBD II, I am not 100% on how to pull codes for it, especially since I cut out the double diode when shortening the harness on accident. I still have it and can solder it back if needed.
Thank you guys you are the only thing keeping me sane through all of this! I will try out some tests in the next couple weekends and let you know!
-
On 2/23/2021 at 7:36 AM, el_freddo said:
Or blow compressed air from front to rear with the fuel cap removed. That might dislodge something in the fuel return line.
Only do this from the return line that disappears into the firewall. DO NOt try blowing compressed air through the inlet fuel lines before the regulator
Cheers
Bennie
On 2/22/2021 at 9:16 AM, Numbchux said:You're getting 30+psi in the return line? Yikes! Definitely have a restriction there. Was it idling that 15 minutes?
Theoretically, as long as the pressure in the return line is lower than in the rails, it should be OK. But as the revs come down, or under engine braking, it could spike up as the ECU shuts the injectors off.
I would definitely run a new return line (or a new feed line, and use the old feed as the return) to get those return pressures down.
On 2/21/2021 at 9:37 PM, Rampage said:The running pressure is right. The bleed down is to fast.
The fuel pump should have a check valve to hold pressure, and the Fuel Pressure Regulator is rated 36 psi, so the pressure should stay at 36 for a very long time.
Change the FPR and monitor the inlet pressure with the gauge.
Ok guys I know it has been awhile sorry for the late response. I don't live in the same city as my BRAT so getting to work on it is not the easiest thing. So I replaced the FPR and ran new fuel lines. The new lines were ran directly to the tank so they bypassed all the old lines.
At first it wasn't starting and I had someone over and looked at it and saw my adaptive tubing to get from 5/16" ID hose to the small size that fits on the return of the tank (I think its 3/16'" ID but I may be wrong). The pic is what I had and my friend said I am for sure choking the return so what we did was take that off, and run the return directly in a jerry can, thinking that would serve us for testing purposed. The car turned over and ran fine so I changed the oil and filter again and it was awesome. It took a crank or two to start but it ran pretty well.
Come a week after with the the return still in the jerry can, it no longer turns over. Oil smells like fuel again and I can't get it to turn over to see the pressure. Any ideas or did what I do sound completely unreasonable in terms of trying to get it to work? I really don't know where to go from here, but would having the return like that really do anything bad?
Thanks for helping me along this journey. Been unable to drive the car since December and I am hoping to get it driving again soon if I can.
Cheers!
-
On 2/21/2021 at 9:37 PM, Rampage said:
The running pressure is right. The bleed down is to fast.
The fuel pump should have a check valve to hold pressure, and the Fuel Pressure Regulator is rated 36 psi, so the pressure should stay at 36 for a very long time.
Change the FPR and monitor the inlet pressure with the gauge.
On 2/22/2021 at 9:16 AM, Numbchux said:You're getting 30+psi in the return line? Yikes! Definitely have a restriction there. Was it idling that 15 minutes?
Theoretically, as long as the pressure in the return line is lower than in the rails, it should be OK. But as the revs come down, or under engine braking, it could spike up as the ECU shuts the injectors off.
I would definitely run a new return line (or a new feed line, and use the old feed as the return) to get those return pressures down.
On 2/23/2021 at 7:36 AM, el_freddo said:Or blow compressed air from front to rear with the fuel cap removed. That might dislodge something in the fuel return line.
Only do this from the return line that disappears into the firewall. DO NOt try blowing compressed air through the inlet fuel lines before the regulator
Cheers
Bennie
Hey guys,
Sorry for the late response. I got new lines put in and the car doesn't turn over so I am currently troubleshooting what is going on. I will post again when I get it running and I'm able to get some readings. Thanks for the help!
-
On 2/9/2021 at 10:15 AM, Numbchux said:
Don't just throw parts at it. Test. Diagnose.
'91 Legacy can still display trouble codes even though it's not OBD II.
ASSuming the Legacy that the fuel filter was designed for was fuel injected, than you have an EFI filter.
Yes, the carbed EA81 uses considerably less pressure than the EJ22. You should have upgraded all rubber hoses and clamps on the pressure side to handle that. But I'm not asking about pressure, I'm asking about volume/flow. Carter's web site says minimum free flow is 21 (no mention of unit. The only one that sort of make sense is Gallons per hour, but even that seems low). '92 Legacy FSM specs the MPFI N/A EJ22 with a 21.1gph pump at 36.3psi, so on paper that actually sounds low, but since it's meant to supply fuel injected V8s up to 7.5L....I would think it would have enough.
You have fuel pressure gauges on inlet and return? What do they say?
On 2/12/2021 at 6:51 PM, UnorganizedMechanic said:My 2 cents. If you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked into the source fuel line, watch the pressure at idle, 2500 rpm, then after shut off to get some base line readings. Then watch the fuel pressure for 20 minutes after shutoff, it typically should hold within a few psi. If you're feeling frisky and have a bore camera, or even a good phone camera, safely take out the spark plugs after shut off and look inside to see if you can see fuel draining into the cylinders.
Good luck.
Hey guys,
Good point, the filter should be an EFI filter then.
Thanks for the replies. I have learned a lot from your responses. I was able to find the Carter fuel pump and Chux, it is 21gph for the free flow and 43psi for the pressure: https://carter.opticatonline.com/part/bcqs-0-carter-p74028?ctx_pt=6256&ctx_p=8&ctx_iam=1
I hooked up the gauges and got some readings and here is what I found...
Cold start return side:
Fuel pump running before engine turns on: 19 psi
Engine Idle @ 800 rpms: 30psi
Engine off: 0 psi, dropped here immediately
Waited 15 minutes and did return side again:
Fuel pump running before engine on: 20psi
at 2500 rpms: 36 psi
Idle: 30psi
Engine off: 0 psi dropped immediately
Waited 10 mins and hooked up feed side:
Fuel pump running before engine on: 36psi
idle: 36-38psi
@ 2500 rpms: 38-40psi
engine off: 26psi
after 10 mins: 16psi
after 20 mins: 10psi
after 40 mins: 6 psi
Do these numbers seem okay? I wasn't sure if that gradual drop on the intake side should be immediate or not.
If it would help I can bypass the inlets and return and just run some temp high pressure fuel lines for the intake and return sides back to the fuel pump and the tank and change the oil. Then after running I could see if the newer fuel lines would allow fuel to flow back more freely. I also haven't changed any of the parts like I said before hand yet just for studious purposes.
Thanks for the help!! I really appreciate you guys sticking around and giving me all this good advice!!
-
On 2/8/2021 at 1:22 AM, el_freddo said:
The only thing I can suggest is dirty fuel clogging the new injectors so they’re stuck open. I hope you have an EFI rated fuel filter after the fuel pump.
Is it hard to start when cold and hot?
Only way fuel can be getting into the sump is via the injectors and the cylinders on shut down. Even then, the correct inlet valve of the leaking injector(s) needs to be cracked open enough to let the fuel past them.
After immediate engine shut off, are all injectors also shut off or is some sort of residual power getting in there and activating the injectors (extreme long shot!)?
How long does it take your oil to be fuel contaminated, and what makes you think you’re getting that amount of fuel in the sump?
Cheers
Bennie
On 2/8/2021 at 2:18 AM, 1 Lucky Texan said:if the engine temp sensor were bad, it might signal the ECU to continue 'choking' the engine as if it were cold. I'd expect poor running and maybe a fuel smell in the exhaust...?
the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can leak, look in the vacuum line for fuel.
19 hours ago, carfreak85 said:Could it be unburnt fuel that flooded and washed out of the cylinder, left over from troubleshooting the initial swap?
17 hours ago, Numbchux said:Does it run OK? Any codes?
If you're washing the cylinders walls enough to get fuel past the rings and into the oil, I expect it to be running pig rich. Sound about right?
EA81s have a smaller return line, not intended for fuel injection. What's the volume of that pump you're running? If it's higher than stock EJ22, it's possible your return line is restricting and overpowering the regulator. You could put a fuel pressure gauge in after the regulator to see if that side of the circuit is pressurizing.
Hey everyone thanks for the replies! I am gonna address all of them in this reply.
Freddo- I actually do not have an EFI rated filter, just a newer legacy filter. That is something I will look into getting now. It is hard to start cold and hot, but more so when hot. What is happening is that I have been fighting this problem, I would change a part or something and then after I would change the oil and oil filter (fuel would come out of the drain, and a good amount too). So for instance we put the injectors on with new seals and changed the oil, it was tough to start it and after I drove it for a bit I parked it, smelled the oil, and it smelled like fuel. When it shuts off not sure if the injectors are still running, any clue how to check that other than just a circuit tester that lights up?
Texan- I can replace the temp sensor and the Fuel pressure regulator is in the mail so I will do that too. I will also looking in the vacuum lines.
car freak- I am not sure, I completed the swap over a year ago and it was running fine for about 6-7 months before this issue started to occur. However the first day that I put new injectors on and changed the oil it ran so good I had never heard it like that before. That is what made me think it was just the injectors. But by the end of that day, it was getting fuel in the oil again and I have been fighting it since.
Numbchux- No codes, don't have and OBDII and running on the stock ECU. I would say its running rich, you can definitely tell. This is the fuel pump I am running: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015RC4MY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks to be about 55-60 psi which I think is a bit higher than the ea81 lol! I have a fuel pressure gauge that I can see what its reading on the inlet and return. I have no doubt that could be attributed to what is going on.
Thank you all for the reply, I am going to accumulate the parts over the next few weeks. I am going to replace the engine temp sensor, the fuel pressure regulator, put an EFI filter on, check the vacuum lines, check the pressure in the lines, and see what else can be done and provide an update. Thanks a bunch seriously it feels good to have a direction to go after all this troubleshooting. I really appreciate all the help!
-
Hello all,
I have an 82 brat with a 91 Legacy L 2.2 EJ and 5psd that I swapped into it.
I have been fighting this problem going on 3+ months now and I am not sure what I did/didn't do, really could use some insight. I am getting fuel in my oil and can't figure out why. I have replaced the fuel injectors with rebuilt ones, and got them tested so I know they are good.
I have a fuel pressure regulator for the ej in the mail so will do that when it gets here, same with the PCV valve.
When I swapped the EJ in, I put an in line Carter fuel pump. Was there some sort of check valve that was in the legacy tank that kept fuel from coming back in from the return side once the car shuts off? I really don't know how fuel keeps getting back in but I am going crazy and spending a lot of $ on oil and filters every time I swap it lol!
Thanks for looking and any insight would be appreciated.
-
8 hours ago, lmdew said:
Under the fuel rail mount tabs going to the intake. Highlighted below.
Do you happen to have the full image of this schematic?
-
8 hours ago, lmdew said:
Under the fuel rail mount tabs going to the intake. Highlighted below.
8 hours ago, el_freddo said:Yep, they go on those two bolts that hold the fuel rails on the intake.
Cheers
Bennie
Thank you!!
-
Howdy everyone.
I pulled my fuel rails off a few weeks ago and life got in the way and as I was putting them back on I noticed these 4 little round spacers sitting in the vicinity. I cannot figure out for the life of me where they went, does anyone know? The car is a 1991 Subaru Legacy L 5spd. I am assuming they go on the two bolts that hold the rail down but I want to be sure before I put them on as I tried for about an hour to get the rails back on with no luck, I was having a lot of trouble screwing the rail to the Fuel Pressure Sensor.
Thanks for the help!
-
19 hours ago, Rampage said:
These should be what you want. 3 of them. O-ring Fuel Pipe. Item # 9 in the picture.
Subaru LINK
Awesome thank you!!
-
20 hours ago, lmdew said:
A few times I just walked into the dealer Parts Dept with the o-rings so they could match them up.
Yeah I was doing that for like 40 minutes with no luck lol!
-
Hello everyone!
I am trying to source some seals for my 1990 Subaru Legacy L 5psd and I am having some trouble with them. I went to the dealer and the parts guy and I couldn't figure out which number was the set of seals on the end of the rails like the one picture shows. Didn't see them on rock auto either, does anyone know where I can get some, what part number they would be, or some that match up? Also is the one seal where the rail meets the fuel pressure regulator the same?
Thanks for any help! I appreciate it!
-
15 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Hmmm it’s an interesting one. Glad the injectors were worth it.
Have you checked the timing belt alignment?
My other thought was on the valves - remove a cam cover to see if you have hla or solid (adjustable) lifters. If you have solid it could be worth checking your clearances for the valves.
Cheers
Bennie
7 hours ago, naru2 said:At least one injector is still leaking.Just because they are new does not mean shyte. I have had new ones leak.
Prove it by installing a pressure gauge and watching the fuel pressure drop after shutdown or better yet apply fuel pressure to the injectors with them removed.
At least one will drip.I put test tubes over the injectors and left them overnight to find the leaker.
Holding the gas pedal to the floor w/starting does not "flood it out" It does exactly the opposite.It cuts off the fuel supply.
Ok so this may be a shot in the dark but I still need to tear this apart but here is what I am thinking. I ordered these injectors (which had some gaskets on them): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=928647&cc=1269446&jsn=9 and also ordered this gasket kit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=928489&cc=1269446&jsn=10374
When I took my old injectors out and compared them to the new ones, they appeared to have the same o rings so I didn't use the ones that I ordered, I just went ahead and dropped the new injectors in. The o ring pack that came had a big one and a small one the big one matched up it looks like but the small one won't fit around the injector. Maybe these ones are supposed to go into the fuel rail?
I watched this youtube video of someone going over some 1996 JDM STI injectors and at 2:20 in the video he puts a o ring into the fuel rail to sit which I did not do. I also did not take the fuel rail off thinking that the injectors were a direct swap. Am I missing the o ring? I know its a different vehicle but I wanted to make sure before I tear into the engine.
Also would not taking the fuel rail off and doing that side o ring make a difference? Sorry to be repetitive guys, thanks for putting up with my dumb questions. I am not the best with this stuff so it takes me a bit. Thanks again I appreciate it!
-
On 11/15/2020 at 8:36 PM, el_freddo said:
To clean them properly you’ll need an ultrasonic cleaner - after that I don’t know what the process is in terms of full submersion or not etc.
The seals are to stop air leaks into the intake manifold, not fuel leaking from the injector, at least not at the intake end. If you have a dud seal on your fuel rail you’d know about that already.
Clean up the area around the injectors before pulling them out. It’ll help with removing them and stop crud getting in where you don’t want it.
Cheers
Bennie
Hey Bennie,
I got the new injectors and when I pulled the old ones off one of them was missing both the seals! I got the new ones in and changed the oil and man it sounded mint oh my god I have never heard it so nice. It started on the first crank like 4-5 times yesterday and I thought that was it, I think its been running rich since I swapped it I just never realized it.
Then it almost stranded me last night! I couldn't get it to go and I had to hold the gas pedal down to flood it to get me home haha! Today I didn't have to flood it out but it took a bit longer to start so I'm back to the drawing board. I feel like it would leave me stranded if I went far so I'll be local. But maybe that's just how it is I am not sure, I just got that good taste of it running beautifully yesterday and now I am wondering if that was because I just got new injectors but who knows. I'll give it a week and see how it holds up. It still starts on the first few cranks but it definitely struggles. Anyways thank you for all the help you have been I really do appreciate it, couldn't have done it without ya!
edit: oil still smells like fuel so its something with that
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Awesome, glad you found the work around.
You could have your current injectors cleaned and serviced. It could be cheaper than serviced second hand replacement units.
Cheers
Bennie
Good thinking right, I could just clean them and replace the seals since the injectors are firing. I might just go that route, thanks!
-
On 11/8/2020 at 10:22 PM, el_freddo said:
That filter should be on the other side of the pump. It’s a high pressure filter.
I’m not sure what you should run pre-pump if anything. I don’t have a filter before the efi pump other than the little mesh unit on the inlet side of the pump.
You will have fuel siphon from the tank at just about any fuel level, pressure will be different with tank level. Just be ready for it with a bung in the line from the tank.
Cheers
Bennie
On 11/12/2020 at 4:44 PM, naru2 said:It is a leaky injector.
Hold the throttle on the floor w/starting in order to clear the excess fuel.
Hey guys thanks for the replies! So finally today got around to fiddling with the brat....
Cold start fired right up and drove it a bit. Parked it for 20 mins and smelled the oil and yep it smells like fuel.
Second time trying its fighting and with my foot on the pedal it roared big time and could take it on another run.
The 2 hours later same thing, it struggled and with foot on pedal it came to life.
Haven't gotten to the back to look at the tank but I think I will go ahead and replace the injectors with some certified rebuilt ones and change the oil and fuel filter for good measure. I just opened the hood after 3 hours and you can smell fuel from a few feet away.
I will update when I get this done and fingers crossed hope it works! I appreciate all the help, I couldn't have done it without you all!
-
1
-
-
On 11/6/2020 at 12:18 PM, Rampage said:
Similar thing that happened on our 95 EJ22. Turned out to be the fuel pump.
When the engine was started and run for a while and then turned off the engine would crank fine, but not start. I found that the fuel pump would not start if there was any pressure in the fuel line. If I pulled the fuel line and bled off the pressure the reconnect it, then turned the key to start the fuel pump would run and keep running and the engine would start. If I just turned the key on, the pump would cycle on and off and then when I turned the key to start the pump would not start back up. With the new pump in it, I can turn the key on and off several times and the pump will run every time like it should.
On 11/6/2020 at 7:12 PM, el_freddo said:No worries @bratboy1
After reading @Rampage‘s post, I agree with him too. I drove across the Nullarbor over here with a dodgy efi pump. After filling up with fuel I would have to hit the pump to make it work. It got tricky as I would have to start the engine on the residual line pressure, then jump out and hit the pump to get it cranking.
This “worked well” until it gave up as we crossed a busy intersection and stalled. That was a fun “push quickly” to clear the intersection. We got a new pump for the return trip home. Very glad the pump shagged out good and proper in town rather than on the endless Nullarbor!
Do you have a surge tank or is the EFI pump feeding directly from the main tank? If direct feeding you could have a blocked pump - pull the inlet to pump line at the pump and see if there’s a mesh filter in there, it could be full of junk. If so, your pump might be ok.
Cheers
Bennie
I didn't think of this... I dont have a surge tank the fuel line runs right from the tank to the filter and pump that I have rigged below...
I will look this weekend and see if the mesh is full, I will also pull the pickup unit on the back of the tank and see if there is rust or debris.
I am not sure if this is a dumb question or not but can I do both of these with the tank having fuel in it? I would naturally think no but I have been surprised before, the tank isn't full by any means but I am not in need of a fill up due to it not running.
Thanks for the help mates! Cheers!
-
On 10/26/2020 at 4:32 AM, el_freddo said:
You might have a leaking injector filling a cylinder with fuel when it’s not running.
check your oil and see if it smells like petrol.
This theory doesn’t work if you tried starting immediately after.
Two other things that come to mind - an issue with your starter motor or a sticky/stuck IACV.
Is it cranking the engine over at a good speed on initial start up and there after?
Cheers
Bennie
Hey Freddo thanks for replying I appreciate it! The thing cranks so I think the starter may be fine. When it fires up it has a strong crank. I was thinking maybe the injectors but I really have no clue how to test them.
I will smell the oil when I next get the chance and let it run for a bit before doing, but won't try and start it after.
And I can try to replace the IACV but not sure how hard those are to find.... maybe need to explore more options.
Thanks Freddo!
91' legacy vacuum line diagram
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
That's awesome I will look in there thank you!