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SiriusBlack last won the day on December 3 2020

SiriusBlack had the most liked content!

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    Crete Nebraska
  • Vehicles
    86 BRAT GL, 87 XT Turbo GL-10, 05 WRX STI

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  1. It does it even when in gear with the clutch in. The neutral switch shouldn't affect it then I would think.
  2. Hey all. I just got done replacing both O2 sensors on my 05 WRX STI. It was throwing a running rich code, and getting abysmal fuel mileage, hence the sensor replacement. Now after the sensor swap, it hasn't thrown the rich mixture code with a 5 mile test drive. Now however it has a wandering idle. If you disengage the clutch and let it drop to idle, it will either drop so low it actually dies, or it will drop to around 200 RPM before climbing back to 800. It will also occasionally speed up the idle to 1000 RPM. It had this wandering issue before the sensor swap, but it was never bad enough to kill the car and generally wandered up instead of down. I have only had this car a few months and the previous owner tuned it. How is the idle controlled on this car? Is it all ECU controlled? Or is there something I can adjust? Do I just need to give the ECU time figure out it has new sensors? Thanks in advance.
  3. Got it all sorted out today. It was purely coincidence that the light went on after a change. The sensor was faulty. In the process of troubleshooting though, I now have a killer bee oil pickup and an oil gauge. Sadly, the gauge is a cheap digital one so not sure how accurate it is. It says I have 20psi at warm idle and about 90psi at 4000 rpm. What are the proper pressures for this car?
  4. Checked all that. The oil level was perfect, no leaks. After the car was wrecked previously in it's life, and rebuilt. It had a 20,000 mile motor installed. I have a new dummy light sensor in case that is the issue, I thought the light typically flickered if the sensor went bad. On the trip home from work when the light came on, I drove it the rest of the way home (about 8 blocks) never letting the engine go above 2000 RPM. All I heard noise wise was a faint clicking that I think was lifter click, no other noises like rod knock.
  5. It's possible. I'll let you know on that once I get the gauge installed.
  6. First thing I checked was the pickup. It was fine, but I replaced it with a new killer bee while I was in there anyway.
  7. Hey all. I recently did the first oil change on my new to me 05 STI. It did alright during the circulation after the change, but my low oil pressure light came on on my way home from work. From what posts I can find, I'm guessing a piece of sludge or carbon got dislodged and jammed the pressure relief valve open. I believe that valve is on the oil pump itself? Can anyone confirm that? If it is, how easy would it be to correct? Can I replace that valve, or does it have to be the whole pump? I'm currently in the process of installing an oil pressure gauge, so I can verify what pressure is actually there. Also, I can't think of why it would, but could this have been caused in any way by the fact that I changed it from 5W30 to 5W40 during the change? Thanks in advance.
  8. Hey all. I recently took COBB's tuning classes, for all the good it did me. Turns out the custom tune the car came with is locked, and my accesstuner software won't read it. In addition the classes they had me take through EFI University, barely touched 75% of the stuff in the software. I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to digital ECU tuning, and I don't want to mess with anything for fear of ruining my motor. I asked COBB if there were any other classes I could take to get a better grasp, they just said to look at their help center. Another waste of time, it barely covers the old STIs anymore. Is there anyone that can help me tune this car? I would be immensely thankful.
  9. Hey all, hopefully I won't be ridiculed or called an idiot for asking this, but I really want to know. I recently got an 05 WRX STI, I read that the DOHC EJ25 motors are interference engines. I know if you change your timing belts regularly, the odds of catastrophic failure due to pistons hitting valves is low. However, pulleys can seize and belts can fail prematurely. Also if you run without covers so you can regularly check them, that adds the possibility of something getting caught and breaking the belt. So my question is, how hard is it to make the engine non-interference? Will installing thicker head gaskets get the clearance needed to make it non-interference? If you increase how much boost the turbo puts out, will it successfully compensate for the compression loss you would get by raising the heads? Just how much overlap is there between the valves and the piston? Thanks in advance.
  10. Hey all. Last week I bought a 2005 WRX STI with 67000 miles. Now I am discovering several things that didn't get discovered during the test drive and the owner didn't mention. It has a Cobb tuning access port that was running a "custom" tune. That tune supposedly added 30 HP, but it killed any and all fuel mileage and was causing a bank 1 too rich code. I reflashed it to the Cobb factory economy tune, now I have 7 different check engine codes. Evap system error/PCV system error and the rest are low sensor voltage errors. It would not let me do the realtime map swaps while it was flashed to the custom tune. Now that it is flashed to a Cobb tuner factory map I can realtime any map other than the custom map. It has a Cobb short cold intake, a Mishimoto radiator, Grimspeed turbo solenoid controller, and Ohlin race coilovers. It also has a clicking noise from the tranny. It is worst in second gear, but can also be heard in first, neutral and reverse. It is absent when the clutch is disengaged and you sit still, but you can hear it faintly when rolling to a stop with the clutch in. I discovered much to my anger and disappointment that the tranny had been being run with almost no oil in it for several hundred miles after they had a shop install a new clutch. Currently my biggest worry is to get the ECU squared away. I want it to run on something other than their custom tune without throwing half a dozen engine codes. All of my subi experience has been from restoring my BRAT and XT, only 80s subis. This is a bit new for me. Thanks in advance.
  11. Hey all. I'm looking into all the different possibilities for engine swaps into my 86 BRAT and 87 XT. I'd really like to put EE20 boxer turbo diesels into them, but can't find physical dimensions for these engines anywhere. People drop the EJ18 and EJ20s into these cars. I did find out that the EE20 is shorter front to back than the EJ20. I'm more worried about width. Can anyone get me the full physical dimensions on the EJ18, EJ20 and most importantly the EE20 diesel? Thanks in advance.
  12. @el_freddoThanks for the links, I'll be sure to comb through it all. I most likely won't go the exact same route he did, but the cache of knowledge in those should certainly help.
  13. @moosens You feel right, I'll keep what everyone is saying in mind, but I will stick to my plan for the most part. I'm stubborn and like a challenge, I was just looking for a little help.
  14. I have decided that a stand alone is probably better. I already planned on an intercooler system and cooler more efficient turbo, in addition to the dual core radiator I installed "have to keep it cool". Still working on the pressure issues. I think you're underestimating the durability of the cylinder walls. The main issue is the head gaskets, that's where my problem currently lies. No one makes MLS head gaskets for this engine. If I can get MLS head gaskets, I think it will handle more pressure. Once again I'm not looking to cram ENORMOUS amounts of air into it, because I'm not wanting HUGE hp increases over factory. Are you honestly saying, that even a slight increase in air pressure for more power will blow it up? Even if you think so, there are ways of reinforcing it without too much work. That's like you said the EE20 diesel is garbage because the crank seat cracks, I believe the issue was with those? Wouldn't you fix that problem with an engine crank girdle? As for the referencing things that don't exist, you do realize that people make things exist, right? You don't dig in the ground and find a deposit of EJ engines. They didn't always exist, someone created them.
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