bean

Ideally, finding injectors that the stock ECU could drive with more headroom than stock would be ideal for someone just wanting an upgrade. That would be cool since you could do the upgrade in steps so the total outlay in cash and downtime would be at a minimum. Being married with more than one car project means that I have to VERY choosy on how I spend money... To be honest - I would rather build my own set of rails, a bit because the cost savings, but mostly - the satisfaction of building it ALL myself. The great opportunity here is to develop an upgrade that everyone could duplicate for a minimum of costs. For those that need parts pre-built - great! Nice opportunity to make a little money helping another enthusiast out. Key to this upgrade is getting the upgrade sorted out so that it is a bolt in upgrade that takes x amount of hours with x parts from the wrecker / auto parts store. Anybody know the specs on our injectors? Anybody ever get them cleaned and flowed? I may have had the info at one time as I had a set cleaned and flowed - but I no longer have the info

I personally like the MS and EDIS idea if UMS doesn't take off - crank fired trigger ignition - very cool stuff... Sky is the Limit with MS - Boost control, water injection, extra injectors etc etc. I am definitely interested in this for my EA82T because if it was actually economical to run - I'd NEVER get rid of it. (Even is costs up to $1000 CDN) Again sorry if this is jacking the post ...

My thoughts would be that it *may* be possible if you were able to set up a wide band O2 sensor that the ECU would use in a closed loop system - IE using feed back from the wide band to determine fuel requirements. (Perfect for highway cruising only) R&D would definitely have to go in if you wanted peak power AND efficiency. Which is what I want R&D is basically a necessity if you want it all - but I personally would enjoy the tweaking and tuning needed to get it right - beauty part of MS is, once more people do it, these maps can be used as baselines for others. If it takes off, then very little R&D would be needed since there would be such a large base of knowledge to pull from. This relates to the post since fuel management would be manditory almost since the new fuel rail opens up the possibilities of injectors into the equation - most of which the ECU can't handle.

That's funny as I am in the same boat! I like the MS because it is so adaptable, and the following it has by some VERY smart guys is phenominal. It is VERY DIY, but I think with the enough patience I could do a decent system for far less than SDS and have money left over! I've been on the MS list for a few months now, and the potential of MS is insane, and the new system coming out - UMS will absolutely rock. I'm personally waiting for UMS, and if it works well on there, I will build a system for my subie. UMS is a full stand alone - (MS has versions that do spark as well though). Solves the problem of using better injectors with custom fuel rails and having a kick rump roast computer to run it all. The EA82T would really shine if it had decent modern fuel control - we might actually have a car with decent gas mileage AND power!! Sorry if this off topic from the post...

This would be a sweet, nicely done edition for fuel upgrades for our little beasties. I've been researching MegaSquirt DIY fuel ECU and this link was posted: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/extrusion.html Looks cool and the ideas are already starting

You guys make me sick down there buyin' subies so cheap! Course a nice Loyale will still go for $5G up here. Unfortunately rust is the big enemy so they often rust out the unibody rails under the front foot wells - which also anchor the front suspension trailing links. Either their beaters, or primo examples getting top dollar. That's what happened to my 86 wagon - just too much $$$ to fix. Lucklily the new 87' wagon is in much better shape. I will most likely do a quick swap to get it mobile, then take it off the road in the summer for a complete go through complete with new paint.

Found out the build date was 07/ 87 so I'm pretty sure it's a 3-sp. This means the 5-sp is a definite go if I have the parts to do the swap. My only worry is the flywheel, and the tranny cross member. Does the console have 1 2 3 D in a 4-sp? Is so then I KNOW it's a 3-sp as it only had the 1 2 D. I slalom a MINT 505 Turbo GL 5-sp in the summer (Built for SCCA in the 80's - tripper with all the go fast bits Ice racer is a regular 505 XN6 (90 HP) 5-sp that has a lot of lightening - I actually cut the trunk off entirely!! Have yet to race, but it should be fun - gotta LOVE RWD. The class has a build budget of $500 otherwise my choice would have been a 4WD Subie - no luck finding one cheap so I did a Pug. Rabin

I'll have to inventory all the stuff I have, then see what I'm missing before I can go ahead with the swap. BTW - I was towing my ice racer (505 Peugeot 5-sp) around this weekend with my wagon in 4WD and I think I buggered the clutch pack transmitting power to the rear wheels - car is now 2WD - push button does nothing. Nothing else would tow it in the icy snowy conditions - 2wd truck couldn't even move it. Good thing the car is dead and the 5-sp swap is going it Thanks for th heads up on the rear cross member! Rabin

Thanks guys! I was worried a bit about putting considerably more power through it, but now I'm convinced! The 4-sp AUTO *may* be in the new car since I don't even know what year it is, or even opened the hood for that matter! So my motor would just get dropped in. I'm assuming it's an 87', so my plan for the 5-sp hi/lo is pretty definite. I'd love to find a 3.9 VLSD, but that can wait until after I get the swap complete and the body brought back up to snuff. It has some rust (more body rust than my wagon), but the undercarrage is pristine compared to mine. Most of the body rust is in the front fenders - and my car has fresh ones - so my present car is the perfect parts car for this new purchase. Plan right now is to get the mechanical swap done ASAP - so now I have to find all the parts I collected to make sure I have enough for the swap! Is the cross member for the 5-sp manditory? That may be the only piece I don't have... Thanks again!

"Are you the same Rabin as James Rabin who races his 505 Peugot turbo? Were you ever a service chief for rally drivers of a 92 Legacy Turbo? Just curious!" Yep - one and the same! How do you know about me? Rally got too expensive for the owner/driver and 2002 was the last season. Car is now sold Decided I wanted to do it myself so I got involved with the local club with hopes of building / campaining my own car in the Canadian Western National series - most likely in Group 2 (Open class 2WD) after the student loans get paid off (1 more year!) "Hey dude i think i know you. Me and Gord from regina wheel works have known each other for many years, and i know you know him. So give me an e-mail and we'll hook up. I am also from regina so you might have to drive across town at the furthest." Really weird! Yes I know Gord very well! We definitely need to hook up so I can check out this car! I'd like to baseline my car against your's so that I can see what the change to the 5-sp hi/lo and the other mods I have planned do for the wagon. With this weather we're having, nothing can touch the Subie on the streets!! It would also be cool for you to bring it out to the winter events, or even the summer slaloms. Later... Rabin

Hi everyone... My wagon with a rebuilt EA82T and 3 sp auto is dying of structiural rust. Too far gone to save unfortunately. I found a replacement GL-10 T (auto) wagon that was abandoned at a friends garage after it was diagnosed with a cracked head. Bought the car for $150 and now I want to upgrade it before I drop the motor into it. Can anyone tell me what year the 4-sp auto went into GL-10's? I have a 5-sp hi/lo conversion (with 3.9 diff) I was planning for my car this summer, but it was from an NA engined car. Would it hold up to the Turbo engine? Would the smaller axles? I will rally-x this car, and do the odd ice race, but the tranny will run Redline 75-80 NS to keep it safe - I wonder if it will still explode... If it had the 4-sp (I've yet to even open the doors - bought after quick visual check for rust), I may leave it in, but if it is the 3sp, then I really want the 5-sp manual in it. Gas mileage is terrible (normal - I know), and it revs at 4000 RPM on the highway, so I want to put in something to bring the revs down and hopefully get increase highway mileage. BTW - Other plans are: Top mount intercooler 14" Pug alloys with performance tires BOV Boost gauge 12 psi Thanks for any and all advice! Rabin

Holy cow - another guy from SK! Been away from the list for a while (since the new format came out) and just stumbled across this post. I will drive any where in Saskatchewan you may be - to ride in this car. I live in Regina Saskatchewan, and have family in Saskatoon (the two major cities in SK). The only dyno's I know about are Semi Dyno's and at $185 for three consecutive pulls with no changes - they don't have a line up of cars waiting! If you work at one of these shops though - that would be a cool in for those of us that are dying to dyno our cars. SK also also only has one 1/4 mile track (SIR in S'toon) - and I've never heard any of the guys in my club talk about a hotted up Subie - since I have one and it wails in our local rally'x's and ice races. (People tend to talk about such cars...) I'm also very involved with my local motorsports club http://www.qcma.org, and I have a nicely tuned 1986 GL-10 Turbo Wagon. I've got good friends in Saskatoon's motorsports club too - heard nothing about your Subie at all... Can't wait to see this car man - it sounds awesome!! The reason I'm back is my current wagon is rusted structurally - good news is I found a better optioned GL-10 T wagon with less rust and a shot engine. ($150 WOOHOO!) I am now figuring out performance upgrades while I swap drivetrains so I'd love to see a car that has it already done - especially the FMIC plumbing. Thanks Rabin

I'm in SK too! Regina to be exact. And I have the same problem as you. I took my car in for a wheel alignment and they refused to do it because of "serious structural rust" - front frame rails are rusted. I priced out repair, and it was CRAZY! $2000+ just for the rails. I'd fix it myself, but there is just to much rust to fix it all, so I'll wait for a better project car and dump all the mechanicals of mine into it. I've run my car in local dirt rally-X's, and ice dice events in our local club (http://www.qcma.org) with my car, it has a nicely rebuilt engine ($2G), and now the car is too rusty to fix. I figure I'll drive it until I find a decent 3-door coupe, or a decent wagon. They are around, but the good ones never get sold... Rabin 86 GL-10 Wagon (silver with blacked out rear windows)