rpl3000

Probably get back to this next week. I'll post up what I find out.

The car is my mother's. She bought it new and I don't recalled an A/C problem in the past. I'm usually consulted regarding car repairs. The dealer head gasket repair was two years ago and if they did remove the condenser then that was probably the first time the system was opened up. overcharge doesn't sound right from the amount of oil around the condenser/high pressure line interface, and the leaking high pressure schrader valve (although the plastic cap is o-ring sealed so maybe not the main leak). Also, there was no major engine services between this summer and last summer (when it was working fine or at least good enough that I didnt get a phone call). Leakage is the only option.... A few other things. The high pressure line was pretty hot (too hot to hold for sure). How can I test other components? expansion valve and drier? What are the symptoms of air/ moisture in the system? Also, should I be taking these readings at a certain rpm? The above posted readings were at idle. I read a page that said "high idle" for gauge readings ~1500rpm. Regarding replacing the o-rings that lucky texan posted the link above. Does anyone know the material? Buna-N, Viton, EPDM, PTFE?

Right. I suspected a low charge from the "pssst" when removing the high side dust cap and the oil around the connections to the condenser. My main question is what pressures do I fill to? I was planning on adding some dye and topping off the system but I dont know the pressures. 30-40 on the low side was exactly what I would have expected, but I dont know the high pressure typical values. Most cars I have worked on are 18-24oz capacity so its a no-brainer to refill them.

symptoms - A/C working for ~10-15 minutes then not (blowing warm afterwards). I had initially thought just a low charge and it still may be the case but the gauges seemed to be in the right range. Ambient outside temp - 80F inital readings Engine off - Low pressure ~60psi, high side - ??. I was distraced by the high number on the low side gauge so I dont recall the high side initial reading. I think it was below 200psi Engine - on A/C - on / fan at 2nd setting. Low side jumped to ~30psi and climbed to ~40 after 10 minutes. High side jumped to 225 and climbed to 250. I put the shop fan in from of the car after 10 minutes and the gauges moved a bit. Low side dropped to about 35 and the high side to about 205-210. The thermometer in the vent reaad 58 which is a bit high for 80F ambient correct? These numbers seemed alright from my experience with other cars. I dont know exactly the pressures for a completely charged system. I was expecting to see ~20psi on the low side. I had thought that the system was low and the evaporator was freezing up. 35 on the low side is not low enough to freeze the evaporator (~36F at saturation)) I then switched off the AC with the engine still running. The gauges immediately jumped. Low side jumped up to 60 and climbed to 70. High side dropped down to 155 and then 130. Next step I pushed the button to turn the AC on again. This time the clutch did not engage. Now I think the clutch did not engage because the high side pressure was low. There is a switch on the high side right? I'm really kicking myself for not writing down the initial hig side reading with the engine off. Other notes: The high side dust cap hissed when I took it off to attach the hose (leaking schrader valve probable). Also, the connections to the condenser looked extremely oily. I clened them up but I'm wary of a leak there also. The car recently had a head gasket change by a dealer (within past year, so not too recent) and I'm not sure if they removed the front clip when doing the job. That means they might have broken that seal and maybe not replaced the o-rings or just botched up the resealing.... who knows. I suspect that it was undercharged from the oily mess at the condenser and the hiss from the high side cap, but 35-Low and 250-High on the gauges seems alright no? So can someone tell me if the system is undercharged from the gauge readings I got? Also, what would cause the low pressure side to jump up when the compressor switched off? Is this normal or is there a problem at the evaporator/ expansion valve side of things? Thanks and sorry for the long post. -rpl

It starts and runs. Unfortunately I was going to sell this car and its not registered so I didnt get it out on the road for a drive but I let the engine warm up to normal temp. Everything seems fine.

I purchased the insert kit from Car Quest and did the repair today. As a note the kit from Advance Auto didn't work because the tap did not have the broach for the 3/8" driver. I'm going to let the silicon sealant sit over night then start it up tomorrow. I liberally greased the tap and took my time so hopefully not too many chips got in the cylinder. I also started it up and ran it for a minute after I tapped the hole. Thanks for the replies. I'll post back on the progress tomorrow.

I just joined the blow-out club today. Can anyone tell me what size kit I would need from Time-Sert? 2001 legacy

yup entire car shutter on full lock turns. -auto -140k Front tyres were over inflated and as a result worn a bit more in the center compared to the rear. fixed now. still shuttering. I'll have my summer tyres on in a few weeks and those are all equally worn.

Hello. I have a 01 legacy that has the power steering problem of shuttering while turning at low speeds. I honestly don't feel like fixing the problem but is it dangerous to continue driving like this? thanks.

UPDATE: So after tolerating the gas smell last winter and the CEL on for about a year I had to get emissions done in DEC. I took it back to the garage where I bought it and said that I just need it through emissions. Turns out that the knock sensor needed replacing. The CEL has been off for about 3000 miles now but I still have the gas smell on cold start. I need to check the EVAP system and fuel lines. I wonder if the whole system just needs some time to clean itself out after basically running rich for a year (25k miles). The surging at 3-4k rpm has stopped and gas mileage has increased from 20-24. As a note about the garage replacing the cat 6 times. I'm sure they weren't new cats. It was under warranty so I'm sure they were just pulled from other cars. I didn't pay anything so I didn't ask.

Yea, works fine now. I just took it out on the highway. shifted great when it was acting up I would put it in gear (it felt like it was shifting, definately not neutral. I was on a hill and it rolled in N, but not D) but it shuddered when I pushed the gas and kind of inched and lurched. My best description is that it felt like the brakes were on. Generally the whole car was freaking out, lights dimming, shuddering, revving up and down erratically with the forward surges. When I did this the AT oil light would come on (and go off when I stopped pushing the gas). I didn't try any other gears. Reverse worked. The engine revved pretty well in N and P before I lost all electrical power.

update: installed new alternator, no brake or battery light (yah!). check engine light still on as usual (boooo!). If I click my heals and pray to the subaru buddha maybe the bad o2 sensor was caused by the alternator and the engine light will go out in a few days. local dealer had part. 305$. (New impreza's look good) could have gone to napa for 220$ but here's 85$ to never doing it again for this car. also could have done 1st subaru internet for 200$ but I'd have to walk to work again tomorrow and ship back the core. final question. now why wouldn't the car move in D with the engine running? Thanks for all the help.

update: battery looked bulged and a bit leaky so I got a new one and installed it. started right up but the brake and battery light were still on. battery reads 12.1V at idle after running for about 10 minutes. I would like to go and just pick a new one up tomorrow. So that means Napa or advanceauto. Are they really that bad? Napa shows one for 219$ plus 90$ core. price is comparable to 1st subaru and I can have it in hand tomorrow night.

my 01 legacy died on the road last night. 1) the day before the brake and the battery lights lit up on the dash. I got it home and found the rear brakes grinding and a broken battery terminal (ground). ok fine, replaced brakes and terminal. battery light does not go out. I figure it just has to reset after a few cycles. I read 12.4V on the terminals with the car running. Should it be higher? like 14V? 2) last night I take it out to the store and on the way the CD player shuts in and out. ABS light comes on, check engine comes on and the idle drops and is lumpy. I turn on the ac to boost the idle and get it to a parking lot. The car is barely moving and it feels like the brakes are on. I shift to park and rev up the engine, seems to rev fine, no misses. I put it back in D and when I push the gas the AT oil light comes on and it wont move forward (again like the brakes are on). It really felt like when you push both gas and brake. can the ecu activate the brakes? Doesnt sound right but I don't know how ABS systems work. I leave the car running and disconnect the abs fuse, doesnt work. The car only moves in R for some reason. I park it, shut it down and call AAA. It wont even crank. Alright, so now my question is would a low voltage or faulty charging system cause the car do act in this manner? trigger the abs, AT oil light and such. Any ideas why the car wouldnt move despite the engine running? I really don't think i have a tranny problem, I'm looking for an electronic control issue. Thanks in advance.

no gas smell in the exhaust. seems to smell more when the car is cold.

Hello all. 2001 legacy wagon 120k, 2.5L. timing and water pump done at 93k This car has thrown the P%#$ code for the cat failure like 100 times and since the car was bought with a year's warrante on the engine, the cat has indeed been replaced no less than 6 times. Now the code is back and I'm off warantee. The gas smell happens both warm and cold. I've read through similar problems and as far as I can tell it could be: -1 of 3 O2 sensors -the cat may be bad (mine may be toast from running it rich for a month now but I hardly believe that is really whats wrong given the previous 6 replacements) -evap system (I don't really understand this one something about a solinoid and/or a plugged line) If this helps, It is shaking more than usual stopped when it is in gear. I would say that the engine is definately not getting the right fuel mix. Sometimes when accelerating the engine seems to bog under 3k rpm, then its like someone threw a switch and I get great top end acceleration all the way to 5k rpm. I feel that the exhaust is not plugged or the fuel delivery system based on this. I'd like some suggestions on where to start? Thanks in advance.

I'm sure its transmission related but the plugs and wires should probably be done also.

Was there a TSB issued?

I just picked up a 2001 legacy L wagon and it hesitates a bit when I move the shifter into drive. I searched and read the threads on changing the fluid...drive a bit, then change fluid and filter. ok that being said The car has 95k on it and I know nothing about its history (just got it). I supose that the worst case scenerio is that its never been changed. The fluid smells a little burnt and doesn't look nice and red like it should (looks kinda brown). Another thing I've noticed is that I feel it doesnt down shift correctly. I have to let off a bit to initiate the shift. Arg, I was reluctant to get an AT subie to begin with, but I deal with too much traffic. How can I tell if this tranny is beyond repair? I was planning on getting 60k miles out of this car and if the tranny is burn then I'll probably dump it while its got value. Is there any way to really tell? Thanks in advance

I also had to leave out the bracket behind the pump. Then replacement pump didn't have the threaded holes in the back of it to attach it. My initial drive reaction w/ the replacement pump is, "feels funny". We'll give it a day or two before I give the final verdict. Who knows if this one is even good because it was from a salvage yard and might have been sitting a long time.

The current pump has no sensor, so the ECU is gonna do what its been doing (without input from the pump). I'm going to install it and hope that it has no ill efects. If it was the other way around, with the new pump not having the sensor,I think then there might be a problem. Thanks for the input. I'll post of any effects. As a side note, this is my fisrt subaru and I've been really impressed with how easy it is to work on. So far I've replaced the front axle (45 minutes), and now the pump (10 minutes to remove). I've never worked on an easier car.

I'm replacing the power steering pump on a MY96 EJ18 impreza. The replacement pump is off a 95 (says on the tag from a salvage yard) and there is an electronic connector on it that my pump doesn't have. Looks like an inductor or something like a knock sensor would look like. 1) What is the connector? 2) Can I still use the pump? My wiring harness has no connect for it. My guess is that its a pressure sensor or something to turn on an idiot light on the dash. What do you think? Thanks.

easy one for you guys.... Where is the fuel filter on a 2001 forester? thanks.

Are the seals a hard job? Any special tools? I've done head gaskets before so I know my way around under the hood a bit.

I went to change my oil last night to find both heads soaked with oil. I'd say it was heaviest towards the front of the engine and there was some leaking out of the timing belt cover (but who really knows with all the moving parts). Anyway, I'm not too fimiliar with boxer type engines and I'm wondering if you guys could point me towards the most common oil leaks. Head gaskets are looking mighty suspicious.....