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It's all done. I spaced the rear mounts off the frame using the same number of washers so I could get a socket and torque wrench on it. That set the right angle in respect to the arm. Put it on ramps and tightened to proper torque. Then I removed the washers and tightened the bracket, and torqued it back on ramps. How do you get a socket and torque wrench on the big nut with the bushing bracket tightened to the frame? Thanks for all the help.

@nvu Thanks buddy. I appreciate the insight. Didn't have any cross thread issues, but.i still have one side to do. In the rear bushing, do I need to loosen just the nut on the LCA and tighten or loosen the bracket too?

@nvu Thanks for the info. Is the ball joint a clamp fit into the knuckle vs a press fit like on the truck? I obviously know you can pull the cutter pin and unbolt it from the arm. Back to the bushing scribe question. I'm trying to understand what to do with the scribe lines and a new bushing and mount. I'll tighten it on ramps to get it right. I'm just trying to understand it. Is the bushing not concentric? It just spins around the shaft on the LCA.

In a bit, I am going to be replacing the rear LCA bushings on a 2000 Forester L. Mechanic told me the front bushings were fine, but I'll see how much play and how they look when I pull the rears off. Questions: 1.) Assuming it's just the rears that need it (they leaked), do I need to separate the LCA from the knuckle/spindle? 2.) Do I need to remove anything other than the rear bushing bracket and bolt on the arm to do it? 3.) The Subaru FSM has you scribe a line when removing the bracket. If I am replacing the bushing, is this step relevant since it'll be a new bracket and bushing? Thanks.

@Rampage Thanks man, that's some good info right there. I need to do some suspension bushings first, but I'll definitely seriously look at doing this to see what the solenoid is doing. I was hoping going into the tranny computer where you make it flash a code would tell me something. It just told me it didn't have any faults. Doesn't mean the valve isn't stuck.

I actually saw some discussion of wiring into some of the wiring to force different awd ratios, etc. I guess the best answer is maybe. Especially as a diagnosis tool. Admittedly, I attempt not to cut into factory wiring, but can handle a soldering iron, shrink wrap and routing of wires. I'm all ears as I work to diagnose the issue so that I am confident in my next steps to repair the situation.

@Rampage Thanks for the insight and the link. I would have definitely screwed up the bushings had you not said something. I also need to check the ball joints to see if they are shot. The mechanic did not say they had issues, but better to check now. I'm fairly certain the torque converter system is the issue. It didn't do it for a few days and I thought the fluid swap made a good difference. Seems to be back or it was never gone. If I get the torque converter to lock within 2 miles of home, it won't unlock coming to a stop sign/light. If it doesn't go into lockup, then there are no issues. Really not thrilled about pulling the transmission or engine to get at the torque converter so trying some other stuff first is on my list.

Need to catch up on maintenance on wife's 2000 Forester L. Need to do LCA bushings as they are shot. Don't have a press right now, but not opposed to buying one. Any tips advice on brands, completing the task, etc. Also, need to do struts at the same time. Suggestions or tips on completing that efficiently. I'll be by myself in my garage doing it all.

Thank you for that insight. Perhaps it doesn't consistently do it because sometimes it doesn't get into 4th gear and lock up. I'll test that theory. I did a drain and refill. doing a flush through is on the tap for this weekend. It's not too hard either way. At least they put in a drain plug. Thanks all for the additional info. I did a drain and refill (accidentally overfill) on Sunday. It feels like it is working better since then. I was using M1 Synthetic and replaced it with regular Dex III. The car is at the shop to get diagnosed. They did say the trans is slipping and will be test driving it in the morning when it is cold. Perhaps new fluid combined with transx will extend me for a while. Maybe I should put some of that into my PS fluid before I replace the weeping rack. I need to do LCA bushing and struts too. Ultimately, if I can buy us a year or two on the transmission, I'll be thrilled. I'm hanging on to the theory that it is better to fix this car than buy something else for our son.

I have not changed the trans fluid since the issue began. It's on the list of things to do early on. Working to make room in the garage knowing it will be on stands for a bit. Thanks.

Wife's daily drive is a Forester L with a 4EAT transmission. Currently has 200K miles on it and it's been a good car. I thought this was an engine issue, but I am thinking it is actually transmission. Even though this car has little value, the plan is to give it to our son in a few years so fixing it will happen. I'd prefer to not have a shop fix it, but I might have to pony up for it.I did the secret handshake and I got 2 blinks per second indicating there are no transmission codes. I put the FWD fuse in and the FWD light came on. However, driving it around it still made the same noises. It felt different at first, but when I pulled the fuse out it felt no different. Symptoms:Observed: About 1 mile from home, car will attempt to stall when coming to stop or slowing for a turn.At idle, the engine seems like it is under a slight load, more than normal. The idle seems strained at that point. Put it into neutral and that goes away.Also, when still cold, the RPMs will jump when shifting from 2 to 3 indicating some slippage or delayed engagement. That goes away quickly as it warms up.Feel: The transmission and car feels bound up. I'm now getting some noise on turns and acceleration. I could swear it is a right rear noise when turning right. Like a CV joint. It gets better when car warms up. Yesterday I noticed an almost clunky noise from left front under harder acceleration. In the snow, around the culdesac, under acceleration it pushes (understears) like a bulldozer. Let off the gas and the push goes away.I'm leaning towards a bad solenoid in the transmission, but the codes didn't give me anything. Could a solenoid be bad even if not getting a code?I guess the only solenoid I can change is the duty C solenoid and it would require dropping the tail assembly. It would suck. Anything else I should be looking at? Torque converter? Line pressure solenoid?

Found the board via Bing and like what I see so I joined. Wife's daily driver is a 2000 Subaru and it is a bit long in the tooth. 200K miles I'll be posting in the tech section on that car. Just saying hi!