phychotron

A friend gave me a bunch of neon lights for computers, and i wanted to put 2 of them under the dash. Considering the dome light is near useless, I wanted to wire it so that they would operate as the dome would--door, off, on. I'm wondering what would be the best method for this? I was thinking of tapping into the wire going to the dome for the door switch, then wiring with an On-Off-On toggle. The dome and neon would operate on different switches, but still appear to be working in sequence when on door. The prefered way would be to wire it directly to the dome light switch and use it as my means on operation. My main concern is that the switch would not be able to handle the load. is there anything i should be concerned about? will my wiring melt and leave me hangin?

I did the ol' screwdiver trick and was able to get it with minimal difficulty. The most helpful was the incoperation of the 6 point socket and a 3" half inch drive extension for added stability. As i was pulling out the bolts it did bleed a little oil, but there's none on the seal itself. I'm going to replace it for good measure though. The first place i took it said they couldnt turn it because of the way it was sunk in (of course, they waited untill 10 minutes before they closed to call). Something about the center hole was not large enough for thier machine. Does this sound normal for that year subaru? The next place said it would be no problem at all. Thanks everyone!

I'm doing my first clutch on my 82 gl wagon and have finaly got the transmission out, but I'm having a bit of trouble getting the flywheel off. Someone recently cherry-picked my tools and i've had to run back and forth buying stuff as needed. I'm getting sick of it and was wondering what size socket is needed for the nut on the main pulley. Also, those bolts seem to be on there fairly tight, what are the odds that i will need an impact gun to remove these? What other methods are there to remove them? I only tried for a few seconds before i stripped out my two taiwan made sockets. It would be great to have a game plan with all the right tools before they become more of a problem. Also, how important is the O2 sensor on this model? Should i do the main seal while i'm down there? I'm on a tight budget right now and cant afford to do any non-essential repairs. Thanks Wayne

Dang it....

ok, the wierdest thing happend right now... i was looking at it, and i slid the control to max AC and i had a bit of pressure on it and i heard this kinda hiss for a second, kinda like air leaking out of something... and then i moved it back to defrost and the flap was a lot closer to bieng closed, maybe only 1/4" gap instead of about 3/4" gap... does this even make sense?

my car's had this problem since i got it 7 months ago, but only periodicaly, and it hasnt been much of a problem untill recently when it's started doing it more frequently... anyway, when slowing down, up to a stop light, off the freeway, or wherever, at any given temp, the idle will go really low, to the point of dying, or close to it. i usualy keep my foot on the gas to keep it at 7-800 rpms while idling. It was fine for about 4 months, then just started doing it again maybe a month ago... any ideas on what causes this and how to fix it? most the time the idle is fine...

82 gl wagon-- when i slide the heater to defrost, it only blows out a little bit, but more from the heat near my foot. Is there any sort of adjustment that i can make to get the flap to shut all the way? i was looking at it right now, and when i turn it to a/c the flap closes all the way, but as i slide it to heat, it opens, then only goes about halff way up when all the way on defrost...

hmm, interesting... i've found just the opposite

82 gl wagon. 1. what's the voltage suppost to be? i get right above 12, and it goes up and down when the blinker is on, and then it goes just below 12 when the head lights are on... shouldnt it be a little bit higher output? 2. does the 82 have a buzzer or anything that indicates that your lights are on when the car is off? i've left my lights on a few times because i forget thier on. if so, where could i find it, or is thier a way to hook one up?(all fuses are good) 3. what does it mean when my cadiliddic converted keeps tapping, once every second or two? 4. does anyone have a wiper switch where the intermitten works? my switch sucks, and it turns the wipers off the second you turn them off, without returning to the seated position, and int wipers are a must in seattle.

how could you test to see if the wheel bearings are going out? my apartment compelx does not allow car work (so everyone does it all on sunday when the office is closed) and i cant just go check it out at will..

alright, i'll take it back to autozone today... but those lameo's wont have another half shaft for another few days cause i picked up the last one in the area, and i dont want to drive 60 miles to get one... man, just when you think your done with somethin

hmm, i'm was having this same issue on my 82 gl waggon, but mine would idle down to about 800-900, but then sometimes it would go to 2000 all of a sudden, then only go to 1500, then i would drive it a little bit, and it would be back to normal... it seems to have gone away though. I've used sea foam in the gas, and used some carb cleaner around the outside of the carb. (i'm just realizing that i haven had that problem in awhile) when i asked before, the responce i got was "clean out the idle air control, it's behind the power steering pump"... but when i went to clean it out with carb cleaner and a nylon brush, it occoured to me that i didnt have power steering, and thier wasnt anything that looked like it, so i checked out autozone.com and they dont list that part for my car... anyway, if you have one of those, i would try cleaning it out maybe?

so today i replace my other half shaft, as it was starting to knock when turning and i was forced to replace my other one about 2 weeks ago when it was banging, so i figured it would be fitting to do the other. anyway, i got it all back together, but when accelerating, i get a tapping noise coming from what sounds like something in the tire/hub area. I examined everything, and could find nothing wrong with anything. It only happens when i accelerate (but not accelearting in N going down hill)... only when i'm giving it gas. is thier anything it could be other than the joint? at first i thought it was my brake cable rattling against the strut support (as the clip is missing, and when jiggling it manualy it made a simmilar sound) but i wrapped it in a towell and it still did it. Its the sound of metal tapping against something, reminds me a baseball card in the spoke of a bike tire, but more metal sounding...

i just did my passenger side half shaft the other day, and today i had to replace the other side cause it was clicking... if one goes, usualy the other is about to go, and i knew this, but i didnt think it would be within the same week. 125 is decent, my axles cost 69.99 from auto zone (cause thier the only people with them in stock, could have been cheaper if i ordered them from a different store)... life time warrant. it took me about 2 hours to do the driver side, so $54 labor is pretty good for just about anything other than brakes or a tune up.... come to think of it, i was quoted about the same when i was calling around...

just did an oil change, and the tranny oil is fine...