Wannabebrat

Update: sooooo, after reading another forum about ignition lock cylinder replacement I was able to remove the lock cylinder from the ea82 switch I had, and put it in the ea81 housing that was on the car. The ignition switch matched perfectly, and well as the lock cylinder. The only problem was the small "dog bone" piece of metal that turns the ignition switch when the key is turned. The original was just to short, but I was able to fabricate a similar piece that was just a bit longer with some scrape metal and a grinder. Now the ignition takes a key and turns over just like a real car! I will try to post pics later. I did use the drilling the small pin method and just replaced that with a small screw. Also as far as the fuel pump....it has been working fine. I believe my original problem was in the fuel pump wiring harness, not the blue and yellow wire harness that runs to the ignition switch. Best I can tell that harness that leads to the switch is just a door chime of some kind and is not necessary. After driving the car around the farm a little I had a fuel problem again...so I used the wires I had ran to bypass everything and hook fp straight to the batt and boom fired right up. So when I got it home I adjusted the prongs on the fp wire harness coming from the car and cleaned it really good. Hooked it back up and its been working ever since....knock on wood.

Just fyi it was the water pump. Ordered a new one and started removing the old one. 4 or of the 5 bolts twisted off, so I removed the radiator and started trying to get them out with easy outs...no dice. Right when I had made up my mind that I was going to have to drill them out completely and tap the block, by pops had the idea to basically destroy the wp housing and it worked! Took an air chisel and began to chip away at the metal around the mounting bolts. After we got them all broken pretty good we were able to pry the water pump away from the block and remove it. Then I just backed the bolts out with pliers and got new ones from automotive fasteners. New water pump went on easy, and after letting gasket seal set up for 24 hours she was good to go. cycled water perfectly and did not over heat.

Okay that confirms what I was thinking. There are no signs of water in the oil so I'm thinking it must be coming from the water pump and just appears as though it's coming from the oil pump. Every single one of the water pump bolts was so rusted they broke off except one so I'm sure it needed replacing. I have a new one ordered once I get it on I'll let you know what happens.... Thanks again

Okay so today I was about to go out for a drive so I started the car to let warm up a little. After stepping away a few minutes I noticed the voltmeter was not reading because the belt wasn't spinning therefore the water pump wasn't spinning and I had some slight overheating. shouldn't have been anything crazy but then I noticed some coolant leaking I assumed came out of the overflow spout on the radiator. After putting it in the garage I noticed coolant leaking from under the car that seems to be coming from the oil pump housing right around where the oil filter goes. At first I assumed it was the water pump but I inspected it quite a bit and it almost seems like fluid is oozing out of the bottom of the oil pump near the filter. Is this even possible? What does this sound like to you guys?

Okay so today I was about to go out for a drive so I started the car to let warm up a little. After stepping away a few minutes I noticed the voltmeter was not reading because the belt wasn't spinning therefore the water pump wasn't spinning and I had some slight overheating. shouldn't have been anything crazy but then I noticed some coolant leaking I assumed came out of the overflow spout on the radiator. After putting it in the garage I noticed coolant leaking from under the car that seems to be coming from the oil pump housing right around where the oil filter goes. At first I assumed it was the water pump but I inspected it quite a bit and it almost seems like fluid is oozing out of the bottom of the oil pump near the filter. Is this even possible? What does this sound like to you guys?

Hey man this is awesome thanks for sharing! After running my brat for a few days I had a belt issue that stopped the water pump from running for just a few minutes. Slight overheating but didn't seem to be a big deal. When the car stopped it seemed as though coolant was coming out of the oil pump housing. At first I thought it may be the water pump gasket but it seems as though it's oozing out around the bottom bolts of the oil pump where the oil filter screws in. Does this sound right? Can I pull that oil pump off and replace the gasket and hope that fixes it? Would it even make sense for coolant to be coming from this area? I've been reading through my manuals but any ideas you have would be helpful as it seems like you just went through it. Thanks again Cheers

I was thinking the exact same thing seems like I could get the motor for about the price of what the carb would be lol. Is the conversion super difficult? I have a buddy who is a motor mechanic that could help. I mainly worried about the wiring. Seems as though the guy that makes the lift will do the connectors and all for you and label them for like 300 bucks you think it's worth it?

Awesome thanks for the info! Was the EJ22 conversion worth it? I'm contemplating just doing that because it seems like I could get one fairly inexpensively. Will any EJ22 work? Are you running a EA81 trans or ea82?

So I now have both the 85 and 86 starting and running, and I am driving the 85 pretty regularly....and man do I love that thing. So far I have be nothing but impressed. I want to get going on some upgrades and I wanted you guys input. So I am planning to buy the four inch lift from https://www.sjrlift.com/collections/ea81/products/4-ea81 unless there are better options? Once I get the lift installed I plan to do the 6 lug conversion and get some larger tires....what size could/should I run? I also want to add some power to help with the larger tires so I was thinking about pulling the trigger on a weber 32/36 carb...worth it? Any suggestions on where I should get one? If I do get the carb I think it would make sense to upgrade/modify the exhaust, but I wasn't able to find much info in threads. What would you guys suggest to maximize power if I get the new carb. Hows it sounding so far? Any other ideas or tips on things I definitely should or shouldn't do?

So I just hooked the fuel pump back up that was hanging for testing reasons, once I got it connected to the bracket and everything set up ready for a test drive the car wouldn't start anymore.... Any ideas with that clip is on the ignition switch housing? I'm thinking it may be a grounding issue since the only thing that seems to have changed is the fuel pump body touching the bracket?

I know you're trying to sell them all together but if you have a e82 5-speed I would love to get my hands on one. just let me know I'd be happy to work something out. Thanks!

Awesome man please do keep this going! I have a feeling I'll end up in the same boat one day soon and this thread and especially videos will be appreciated.

I guess I should have been more clear, I don't know Jack about Subarus! this is my first one lol. I'll put it this way if name and '80s model turbo was final Jeopardy I would be SOL. I can do some research and find a list I'm sure, I just didn't know if they were popular models that may be more likely to be found in junk yards or find aftermarket parts for. Thanks again for the help I'll start looking!

does anybody have any idea why the connector pictured was keeping my car from running? It's running now which is great but I'd like to know why it wouldn't run with that connector hooked up for the future.... Thanks

Hey so I looked up a conversion manual from this site and it appears the backing plate is the main part and everything else is pretty similar...I was able to find rotors for the front pretty easy, and finally got some new calipers on the way. So if I can find the backing and mounting plate could I find most of the other parts after market so its all new stuff? What model turbo would you recommend to use for the conversion? Like a popular model that may have more aftermarket options. I have already ordered stuff to replace the rear brakes...new shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, everything I could find replacements for....but I could always take them back if the conversion stuff is easy to find. Thanks again!

So update time! I finally received the new switch....I ordered the one with the wire harness attached from parts geek....and of course it didn't fit. After waiting for the part and time to work on it I was a little frustrated. I started messing with the old switch and it appears that a previous owner either used the switch wiring that was original and just stuck it in the new housing, or it just happens to fit, either way I got the switch in the original housing that was left there hollow. My other brat has a torn up switch where someone tried to steal it at some point and it starts and runs fine (with a screw driver) so I compared it to the 85 with the start problem. The only difference I could find is a small connecter in the switch housing with a blue and yellow wire that run to a green connecter. After repairing the switch nothing...still wouldn't start, after unplugging the green connect so it matched the 86 that runs, boom fired right up. So my question is...what is this? Do I need it? Fuel pump only seems to run when starting and running the car, and fpcu seems to be working fine so what I'm I messing? I have included pictures. Also, on the switch...is there somewhere its possible to find a lock cylinder replacement or something aftermarket that would work...or could I possible rob the one from the ea82 switch I have? Thought I found a couple on ebay but something is weird because it won't let me purchase them. But right now I have 2 cars that run off screw drivers so it would be to get them back to keys without spending a couple hundred bucks a piece. Replacing all the brakes now....got everything down to the axels...just waiting on parts to finish. With any luck I will be driving a brat this weekend!!!! https://photos.app.goo.gl/8xEYd3XWgXVoBr8w6

So update time Perfect thank you!

Awesome thanks for the tips!

Yea I totally get that. I will keep an eye out thanks for the tip. Anything I can use to get by for basic stuff? Working on the brakes now and I can probably figure them out but it would be nice to have something vehicle specific to go by.

Got the pulse...hoping everything is gonna be good when I get the switch....pretty sure I got the lock cylinder from ebay....we'll see if it all comes together. Working on the brakes now. If the switch works and I take care of a few other odds and ends I should be able to get her on the road soon. Any good thread suggestions on brake jobs? Having trouble getting new calipers quickly....any ideas where I could get some? What repair manuals do you guys suggest for these things?

Sorry I meant check for pulse at the yellow wire on the FPCU, I also read you give the same advice to someone in another post about checking at the ignition coil as well I'll do both. I'm assuming if I have it at the yellow wire ignition coil should be good. but I definitely agree with you switch needs to be changed anyway so I'm going to order it right away just want to make sure it's the right one.

Okay so you're saying it doesn't power the FPCU but if I replace the switch as original that should solve my problem with the fuel pump not getting power? I guess what I'm asking is what's missing from the switch setup now that maybe causing the fuel pump not to get power? also the housing is completely empty you can see it in one of the pics, and there is nowhere currently to put a key in the original switch housing. Most of what I found online seems to be a new switch electronics with wiring connector but nowhere to put a key. I was assuming a new lock cylinder would plug into the new switch and I need both is that correct? Looks like it could take up to a week so I want to get them ordered right away. Just so I can continue my education, if the switch doesn't send a signal to the FPCU then how is the switch related to the operation of the fuel pump? Also I don't mind going to RockAuto but with the switch in the link I posted not work? Looks like it would screw right into the back of the switch housing and already has a harness that can be hooked up to the other side of the factory pink harness that is there.....is there something I'm missing? Just so you guys know I've been up late hours every night studying and reading previous posts from the forum to try to learn as much as I can before I ask for your time and responding. I've learned a lot and already picked up a few things that should help quite a bit with future projects on the brat so thanks! I'll double check and make sure there is a pulse coming off the test light at the ignition coil. If not what should be my next step?

So if I'm right I need the lock cylinder and the switch correct? Will that go in the housing I had pictured? Something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-ignition-lock-cylinder-X6-long/302432735361?fits=Year%3A1985|Model%3ABrat|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item466a655081:g:6KoAAMXQoiJRhgtN https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/362-05187949.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1985-1989+Subaru+GL+Ignition+Switch+Standard+Motor+Products+US-192+85-89+Subaru+Ignition+Switch+87+88&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=833170040784%3A%3Apla-833170040784&kid=833170040784&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhd6X86ut6AIVUeWGCh0HjgEqEAQYDCABEgLBmfD_BwE

Ok so I think I have it figured out...wanna see what you guys think. Complete newb brain fart....keep in mind this is my first brat and I'm no expert mechanic by any means. So while checking the switch for voltage I noticed the damn switch wasn't even in the right place. A hole had been cut in the kick panel and some "other" switch added in.... looked over on the column, and sure enough empty switch housing. So it all started to come together. So the quick run though: on tinkering with the fuel pump I noticed a red and black wire ran from pump location all the way up to the batt area...both ends were hanging connected to nothing...there was no fuel pump when I got it. Then when I noticed the switch, I uncovered some Electrical tape around the white and black wires above the pink harness, once I removed the tape there were two smaller wires spliced in that were clearly connected to something that was missing. A few other things made it click....I think. The original switch went out, previous owner replaced it with a different switch with no tach wire setup so no power was supplied to the fpcu. So then they put a toggle type thing off the switch wires to turn on the pump manually and hooked up the pump straight to the battery. I found a blue and yellow wire running from the original switch housing to a green connector with yellow and black/white stripe wire on the other end.....just like the ones that come off the coil. So I thinking I get a new OEM style switch and it will be all grits and gravy....fingers crossed anyway. I will attach pics. Any idea where I can get one of these switches? I haven't been able to find one yet. Also Naru2 I did check the switch and got the voltages you described but I'm assuming this switch is not serving the tach/coil function thing that sends power to the pump?? On a side note I couldn't help my self from hot wiring the pump up again and letting her run a little...I'm super pumped! other than a few small things everything seems to be in pretty good shape and road worthy. I'm sure some small stuff will come up, but I got all new rotors and brakes except for the calipers and drums (which seem hard to find). Also picked up some new stock size tires for now until I can get it lifted. As always thanks again for all the help...couldn't have made it to this point with out all you guys tips and suggestions. Pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/bH53Nrk4wk1uJvKj9