RallyKeith
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Posts posted by RallyKeith
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The Dorman kit is 4 sensors and the programming tool for under $300. Every tool I've seen that can program the schrader ez sensors is over $300 and then you still have to buy sensors at $35-40 each. Unless there is a $200 tool I'm missing that's why I'm looking at the Dorman system.
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Does anyone have experience with TPMS sensor cloning for sensor replacement or a second set of wheels? If so what brand/system did you use? I have an 08 Imreza 2.5i wagon with a sensor starting to fail. I've been looking at the Dorman 974-515 MULTi-FIT (315) Universal Programmable Tire Pressure Monitoring System Kit. Looks like it should work for my car but I'm uncertain and don't want to spend a ton of money if it's not going to work.
Thanks,
Keith
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The problem is high oil consumption ( > 1/3 qt in 1200 miles )
I'm not sure how to read this. If I read this the way it's written it consumes greater than 1/3 or a quart in 1200 miles?
To that I say EXPLETIVE DELETED please! I bought my '06 with 16k on the clock. It used a quart every 1500 miles from the day I got it until 160k when I rebuilt it a few months ago. Now it uses a fraction of a quart in that mileage and I don't even have 5k on the rebuild yet.
The issue is people not breaking them in correctly. I honestly have no idea what form of break in is done from the time a car is built until it hits showroom floors. You actually need cylinder pressure to force the rings into the cylinder walls to get them to seat and to get that you need to have more than 1/2 open throttle positions. If you baby them, especially when they are first run, the crosshatching in the cylinder walls glazes over and the rings never seat.
FWIW I use Hasting rings in all my builds. So far I haven't had any issues with oil consumption on any of those builds.
Keith
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I will get under and take another look.
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Yep, it looks like it. That's what the original question in this thread was. Keith said he ordered that part, hopefully he'll follow up whether it works or not.
I've got the part. I was very disappointed that it literally looks like it's a 1-1/2" x 1/2" pipe thread nipple, but at the price I can't complain. I'm not going to get to this until most likely a week or two. I'll update once it's done.
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i wouldn't waste your time on the internal strainer, it doesn't do much. it's a screen - if it's so clogged as to be problematic then the transission won't last 10,000 miles no matter what you do. i've never seen one be anything but clean and maybe some specs.
Well, if I'm being honest I want to see the magnet and how much material is on it. I probably won't do it unless something doesn't seem right.
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was there a change to exhaust routing that created interference?
Nope. Filter is on the driver's side and the exhaust is on the passenger's side. I already ordered the stud as Subaru calls it. Not worried about returns at a total of $14 investment in filter and stud. I just know the fluid that came out when I replaced the rusted hard lines looked like it would definitely benefit from having a filter, especially since it's got 162k on it. In an effort to make this thing last I may pull the pan and replace the strainer right away. I'm just over worried because of the hard lines having been rusted out and the transmission possibly being low on fluid as the lines were leaking.
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The 2008 Impreza 2.5i Automatic Wagon I just bought does not have the external spin on filer that Rock Auto and Napa Online led me to believe it had. Instead there is a block off plate. Based on the parts diagrams it sure looks like I could add the filter by removing the plate, installing a $3 pipe nipple (Subaru part number 15211AA000) and spinning on the filter. Anyone done this or see a reason I couldn't? I already bought the filter from amazon and the $3 nipple is cheaper than returning it and would make me feel better anyway.
Thanks,
Keith
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the original stalling problem might be related to a clogged/gummed up throttle body.
Agreed. These electronic drive by wire throttle bodies are much more sensitive to being dirty since there is no idle control valve. If the throttle body is too dirty the electronics can't get fine enough adjustment.
The $700 price tag is highly suspect. Unless it's shop time (which will be way more than actual) $700 is high for a line replacement and insanely low for any trans repair/replacement/damage.
Replace the line and drive on - Subaru's generally survive compromised/low fluid events like this, I wouldn't expect any issues. A super anal person could drain existing fluid in the trans or ATF cooler and have it tested at those oil testing labs. Or just glance at it yourself. Though if you're finding ATF hard to come by that wont' sound palatable.
The $700 was replacing the trans lines and refilling, replacing the air filter, cleaning the throttle body, replacing "corroded" battery terminals, and replacing 2 burned out marker light bulbs.
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lines to the cooler in the radiator? - thise might not be pricey to replace. Still, kinda wonder how much of the remaining lifespan of the trans was sacrificed when it lost the fluid.
This is apparently a fairly common thing. I was able to talk to a friend who is a master mechanic at my local subaru dealership and has been there for over 25 years. He said they see this more than you'd think and so far if they replace the lines, fill it up, and it either drives fine or it's obviously shot. He didn't know of any with this repair that immediately drove fine but had come back in the near future with a shot transmission, but only time will tell. The lines were only $65, and of course it takes a special High Performance Dexron III that is hard to come buy but the dealer sells it by the quart for $6.50. Considering it drove onto the trailer last night with out any issues or signs of anything I may just get lucky. Only time will tell.
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folks swap in transmissions often. just confirm the final rive ratio is the same as stock. (must match FD of rear diff)
LKQ and car-part.com are some comon sources
Long time. I'm not on this board (or any for that matter) much anymore. I used to be a lot back in the early 2000's. Nice to get a reply from one of the "old timers" I've always trusted!
Turns out it was never "out of fluid," just that the lines are corroded and leaking along with two other things which actually explain the stalling. One being a dirty throttle body which is a legitimate issue on these drive by wire throttles, and an air filter that is so dirty and blocked up with leaves I'm surprised it ran at all.
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One of best friends has a 2008 Impreza 2.5i automatic that started stalling when he came to a stop. He took it to a subaru dealer who told him one of the lines corroded and started leaking until it "ran out of fluid." They told him $700 minimum to fix it.
I have almost no experience with automatics so my question is, what kind of damage was done and is the transmission toast at this point? As a point of reference, used transmissions for this car are super plentiful and it looks like I can easily get one with around 100k on it for around $200, so replacing the transmission is most likely the route I would take if I get the car from him.
Thanks,
Keith
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I took a look at everything suggested so far and I've found no evidence to suggest any of those things are an issue, but I didn't spend a ton of time with it. I'm currently "serving" two weeks of hard labor for my company out of the country so I won't be able to look at this further until mid October.
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How's the pilot bearing in the flywheel? if you are getting enough play in the shaft to kill the clutch I have to question if there even is a pilot bearing installed. The bearing on the input shaft failing happens especially if you don't change the fluid every 80k'ish, but I've never heard of getting enough play in the input shaft to kill a clutch.
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hmmmmmm...........suggest you examine closely the neutral safety switch.
I put it in neutral using the manual override and it still behaved the same. The biggest thing that makes me believe this is none of the normal culprits is the way things stay on once the key is removed.
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Factory security system.
Starter has been fine.
Green connectors are not plugged in.
I didn't hear any relays clicking but I may not have been listening.
This car is on month 6 of a 2.2 swap so I'll check the engine harness connections since they were obviously apart recently.
Also, I couldn't shift it out of park. At first I thought it could be an issue with the neutral safety switch on the trans so I tried to put it in neutral but it wouldn't release. Never thought to look if the brake lights were coming on when I pressed on the brakes. Car was outside and it decided to start raining as I was looking at this.
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I've got a problem with a 98 Outback Limited that has left me scratching my head. Battery seems fine, about 12.5 volts with the key on or off. Turn on the key and the dash lights come on as normal. Try to start it and it does nothing. Then when I turn the key off and even pull it out, the fans stay on as do the lights and specifically the ABS light. The only way to get the fans and lights off is to disconnect the battery. Reconnect the battery, reset the security system, and it does the same thing all over again. I think this might have something to do with the security system but I have no clue. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith
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Results are up:
There are also some pictures from the even on our facebook pagewww.facebook.com/BMRRallyX
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As of this morning we only have 13 entries but we are still going to move forward with having the event. If you were on the fence please consider coming and running. This will probably be our last event until the fall. The fairgrounds is a very busy place over the summer so getting use of the site is next to impossible.Thank you,Keith Kennedy
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FWIW Crank sensor fixed the problem. I swapped out the Cam sensor right away with the old motor to be safe.
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When cutting it in half cut it in the low spots. The sensor works on the proximity of the metal so it sees the high spots and can't see the low spots. Cutting in the low spots keeps you from having any issues in the signal. I've done this on 3 cars now and have never had an issue.
Also, it's held on with 5 allen head bolts so you can't cut it in perfect halves. Don't worry.
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The Blue Mountain Region of the Sports Car Club of America Presents:Kempton County Fairgrounds RallyCross #2 - May 4th, 2013What is it?A RallyCross is any event in which one vehicle at a time is timed over a defined course on a generally unpaved, flat surface and consists of short straight sections and connecting turns or corners. The emphasis is on vehicle handling and agility rather than speed or power. Scoring is based on total time for all runs plus penalties. We will be following all rules as set forth by the SCCA. The rules can be found at: http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2013%20RallyCross%20Rules-Revised.pdfWhere is it?Kempton County Fairgrounds83 Community DriveKempton, PA 19529When is it?Suggested arrival time: 7:30AM-8AMRegistration & Tech opens at 8AM – 9:10AMDriver's meeting: 9:15AMFirst car off by: 10AMFinish and cleanup: 4PMWho can enter?Anyone with a valid driver's license can run. You must be an SCCA member but if you are not an SCCA member you can buy a Weekend Membership for $10.Entry fees will be $40 for those preregistering on Myautoevents.com and $50 for those registering at the event.We will accept a maximum of 50 entries.In order to receive a refund, you must contact the registrar prior to 8:00 PM on the day online registration closes.Each Entrant is required to wear a Snell 2000 or better rated helmet. We will have a few loaners but it is highly recommended that you bring your own.This is a work to play event. That means that if your group is not running, your group will be out working the course. Without this we couldn’t make these events happen. This work may entail any of the following: Working a hand held radio and calling in cones knocked down on course, running out on course between cars to reset knocked over cones, Manning a red flag and fire extinguisher in the event of an incident on course, Shoveling or raking a little dirt.What kind of car can I bring?The event is open to any fixed-roof production based vehicle (including convertibles with a factory hardtop attached like a Miata, targa-types with factory panel in place, t-tops with factory panels in place) that can pass a safety inspection as defined in the rules linked above.We will follow the standard RallyCross classes:Stock Rear Wheel Drive, Stock Front Wheel Drive, Stock All Wheel DrivePrepared Rear Wheel Drive, Prepared Front Wheel Drive, Prepared All Wheel DriveModified Rear Wheel Drive, Modified Front Wheel Drive, Modified All Wheel DriveIn General:We plan to give each entrant at least six runs and very likely more.We will run two sessions of competition, a morning session and an afternoon session with the course changing between sessions.We will run two groups of competitors, Group A and Group B with Group running first in the morning and first in the afternoon.Group A includes Stock A, F and R and Prepared A and F. Group B includes Prepared R and Modified A, F and R.Adjustments may be made to classes within groups depending on the distribution of entries.For more information contact me here, Keith Kennedy, or for up to the minute updates and info find us on Facebook.com/BMRRallyX
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Crank sensor will come out with vice grips if needed. It's plastic, so don't waste time with penetrating oil. It's just stuck and needs to be twisted to break the seal. A screwdriver acting as a lever against a bolt tab can help, but no promise the sensor will be OK after.
Get your ohm/volt meter out and check the cam and crank sensors with the engine cold. Compare the values to oem. If one (or both) sensors are off, replace. If both values are OK with cold engine, run it until the engine cuts, then retest both sensors again. I know with Saab it's usually a bad crank sensor.
Both the crank and cam sensors have metal bodies. The only part that is plastic is the mount and connector. See: http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=40355&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/SMP/PC159photo%20primary.jpg
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TPMS Sensor Cloning
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I did a ton more digging and came up with, and ordered, the ATEQ VT36 for $273 on Amazon. No sensors at that price but it's a full RF system and the ATEQ documentation says it will do sensor cloning on the Schrader EZ sensors. It's not listed on the Schrader website as one of the units that works which is why I didn't find it originally. It doesn't come with any sensors for that price but this way I can actually diagnose which sensor(s) are bad and replace only what is needed.
BTW, I have my own mounting and balancing equipment and "maintain" over a dozen cars across all my family, so it pays in the end for me to have my own equipment for things like this.
Thanks