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glsubby
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Posts posted by glsubby
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SOLVED: Installed a new accelerator cable and the stock fuel/fuel return (which I had sealed) from the hitachi to the Weber. Adjusted the carb to 800 rpms and now she runs and sounds amazing. My exhaust previously had the cat taken off and Y pipe installed.
thank you!!
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Solved: new accelerator cable and hitachi carb fuel & fuel return installed. Idles at 800 and I drove it for over an hour.
Thank you!
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On 8/26/2020 at 9:31 PM, GeneralDisorder said:
They are not even close to the same. Move along.
GD
Oh...my bad. Rereading the Chilton and Haynes for all 80s emissions, it said they're we're all the same. I'm learning haha.
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Hello all,
2019 Toyota GT86 TRD Edition
I know this sounds dumb, "just replace the battery", but my battery tests fine at NAPA every time as well as the alternator. It'll start up fine in the morning, drive fine, I go to the store, get back in and it either has a super hard and slow start or it is dead. I've even driven it four a few hours and then parked, same result. If the charging system is fine then possibly something is pulling excessive amperage?
Jump the battery, perfect 14 volts w/perfect start. Has anyone had this issue? I find it hard to believe the factory alarm system would drain it while locked/parked. Also, they're absolutely no aftermarket parts on my 86. The battery is Toyota factory, about two years old.
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Not sure, picked up from a hardware store. I removed the vacuums yesterday and capped lines at the intake manifold. It ran at 3k now instead of above 5k. I'm putting a new accelerator cable on (in case mine is somehow leaving the throttle open). Otherwise, I don't know. The adapter to mani is solid and the gasket is covered 360 degrees by weld. I'll try to get a good picture and post soon.
I'll update once the new cable is on. I know I'm being annoying, but, ironically this is the first car I chose to work on. Good learning curve.
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I have an 85 gl EA81 (vacuums should be same). I can take a picture of the diagram that’s on my hood.
but...I installed a Weber after my bowl vent vacuum system went dead. (And it sounds amazing)
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I forgot to update, but, this has been solved. A factory wire (black that covers a white smaller gauge) going into a male/female plug. The female side’s white wire (going back into the black) was toast.
thanks everyone, got the dash and interior back in.
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I placed a piece of steel wool down it and then used high temp jb weld to plug. Waited over night and then sanded it down to match. My kit came with the smaller air cleaner so it clears the hood. And, it’s the solid plate ea81 adapter.
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Sorry...I’m a newbie. The carb and kit was purchased new; out of the box installed.
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Sorry, it’s the two PCV 5/8” circulation inlets, on the blue covers, left and right. Is the pcv essential for a Weber? Some write ups include it and others don’t.
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The main jet was in all the way so I will back it out two turns. The adapter to intake manifold has jb weld all around it (paranoid of air leaks).
The previous owner had put an autobest fuel pump on. I’m trying to get the model number but could too much fuel pressure cause it to high idle?
I have a return spring on linkage, looked down the primary with a light and it “looks” closed. Adjusted the choke so the butterflies are closed (maybe I shouldn’t). I did plug the two holes going into the sides of the engine....not sure if that was correct.
Thanks in advance!
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Hello,
I have a 1985 GL hatchback, EA81, automatic 1.8l with emissions. I just put a Weber 32/36 carb on it (with the EA81 one piece adapter.
I’ve plugged every vacuum inlet I can find (except PVC/EGR) and now when I start it it revs to 5k or higher. One day I adjusted the choke to be fully open (butterflies open) and it stayed around 2500. Adjusting the idle speed screw didn’t help.
I have checked and adjusted the accelerator cable and I don’t see any linkage issues.
please please help.
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Okay. So I’ve learned a lot about cars and this Subaru over the last few months lol. I found the short to Ground and fixed it. The car runs.
Stupid issue: I can’t for the life of me get the instrument cluster back in to where the visor can get in place. It also doesn’t sit right.
Any help would be so appreciated!
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I’ve read mass posts on here about Weber instructions etc., and now I’m super confused. I watched a mechanics shop in AU give a 30 min. “How to” on an 80s Brumby.
confusion: they never mentioned; Plug intake coolant, or EGR delete.
Also: if the connections for the bowl vent valves aren’t connected, the car should still turn over? Mine are both toast.
I purchased directly from Weber (the entire kit, which AU mechanics used) and now I need help. I think my kit will arrive tomorrow (Monday). I have the Hitachi off and I’m ready to go as soon as it arrives.
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Had I known the 2020 would be the last model for the 86/BRZ I would have waited. But, it looks cool lol.
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I recently had a similar issue. Found a few exposed wires (bl/y, fuse 13) one at the ecm plug, one behind the stereo, and a few in the bay. Make sure to check your ig coil and fuel pump relays.
Also, factory wiring has several splits with a copper band, I found several that needed rerouted or I used liquid electrical tape to stop short to ground.
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Well, we can close this thread lol. I’m putting a Weber 32/36 on as I can’t course the valves. Thanks for the help.
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Nvm, they’re bowl vent vacuum valves.
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I thought this was the coasting shut off components but looking at my Haynes I’m not sure. There’s two, they sit right behind/underneath the air cleaner. Black/white and yellow/red wires. Fuse diagram says it’s connected to ignition and is always hot.
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Okay, so after sifting through more of the wiring harness and using a 9v signal meter I now have power everywhere up until the coasting shut off solenoids. (Which the ecm says). Now I need to either rebuild them or get lucky and find one. I have no idea how to rebuild nor if it’s possible. I’ll do more research. I wish I could get rid of the emissions completely.
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Okay, it’s an EA81 engine, L series hatch, base. I went through the dash and carpet and found some exposed wires as well as in the engine compartment. Fixed a wire from the ig coil and last night the car started and then died, also replaced a few suspicious fusible links. Did this a few times and fuse 13 was not blown. This morning, it starts for a few seconds then dies. Then it blew the fuse again.
I do hear the fuel pump kick on. Relays have resistance etc. My question: could a ECM cause this? I’m at over a month on this thing.
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1.8L L4 SOHC 8V (1800cc). This GL is the base, AT/ECVT. 2nd Generation GL. The ECU (or it has another name) I read controls the ignition on start up and also controls the carb.
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Intermittent Dead Battery
in BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
Posted
No wrecks (I had a cosmetic bumper tap but the engines so far back it didn’t impact). No mods or aftermarket anywhere. I did jump my GL once or twice with it. Maybe I didn’t let it run after for a while and this bogged the battery down?