1985GLWAGON

I know you can, the dealers used to put A/C into cars that didn't get to the lot with it. I assume you could put either the factory or the add-on styles into a non-A/C car, but it would be a real PIA! Especially inside the dash and stuff. You could consider an aftermarket a/c system like the ones they sell for old classic cars and stuff, but I think they are really pricey.

Where are the test connectors? I can't remember why but I don't think my model has those, think I looked before, isn't the connector just for ECU-equipped cars?

Anyone know how to get ALL the fuel out of these via syphon? I got 1/2 a tank out but the other 1/2 is still in there, and I need it! No matter what I cannot get my hose to get further down in the tank, it just won't go and is bunching up on something along the way. I tried taking off the fuel line at the carb and having the fuel pump do it for me, but I forgot that it won't pump without the engine turning over. And since it's a new pump I don't want to mess with it's wiring to make it run.

'85 Wagon-Flare Red

So white smoke at startup is normal? For how long? This is totally unrelated but my Chevy V8 always did that for about 5-10 minutes every time I started her, used to worry about it. It was completely odorless and I think it was steam, it would condense on my hand if I put it over the tail pipe.

Mine's 13lbs., plus Advance Auto lists 13 lbs as being correct.

If you splice it into the regular ignition circuit won't it draw to much power and blow the fuse or something?

you'd have to rig up a relay that only operated when the ignition is on if you want it done automatically, like everybody else said your best bet would be just to rig a switch so you can control it manually without all the complicated wiring.

Does the gauge rise if you just move the selector lever to HOT and don't turn on the fan? Maybe it's some fan related electical gremlin. Still the exact same situation I had with my van, the heater sometimes (not always) would make the gauge rise up when I turned it on full-blast. It should do the exact opposite. who knows! Oh, did you try the thermometer in the radiator thing? It would tell you one way or the other. If you can't get it to overheat at idle you could drive it around until it got hot then park and leave it running and CAREFULLY pull off the radiator cap with a thick towel, then put a thermometer in there, it should show you the temp when the gauge is showing hot.

Hey folks, did these subies come with those vacuum valves that turn off coolant flow to the core whenever it's not in use? Mine doesn't have one and the hoses are hot all the time regardless of where my heater control is. So what would make his gauge raise up if there is coolant flowing through the core all the time?

Hey Camel, my fan's like that too, never works, from other posts I've read I believe the thermo-switch that controls them likes to go out. Mine comes on for a second whenever I turn the key to On but then never comes on again, no matter how hot it is.

My Hayne's manual gives the following method to tune the A/F mix: start by getting the engine warm then turning it off, then turn the mix screw all the way in, then turn like 2 turns out, if it will start and run then turn the idle screw until it's at the right rpm's, then turn the mixture screw out until it reaches max. rpms, then readjust the idle screw back down to where it should be, do that a couple times and it's supposed to be set. Oh, and the last time you adjust the mix screw you're supposed to turn it in about 1/2 turn then readjust the idle screw the last time.

Yeah, if your gauge says you have oil pressure I'd say your sending unit is okay, I had a similar situation with my GL where the oil light never came on. I think we concluded that these cars only used one or the other (either gauge OR light) I'd bet your oil light is lit via some electrical anomaly, Camelwagon's light only came on if he turned his headlights on. I third the engine wash idea as well, get her as clean as you can then let her idle up to temperature and see if she'll show you the leak, if you can't see anything, you might have to drive it around for a while then check and see if there's any fresh oil on anything. Oh, and I'd say you need a new resistor pack for the blower motor as well. It's right next to the motor (pass. side foot well) and only has a couple screws holding it in, mine had an obvious crack in one coil, but if you can't see any check it with a ohmeter, if you get a resistance reading then that coil is okay. If any of them read as an open circuit then that's a broken one.

If the oil is pooled on the top of the engine next to the filler neck, could it just be that the gasket that seals the filler neck to the engine is leaking? I'm too lazy to go look but isn't the #1 spark plug just to the right of the filler neck? Maybe the plug well is filled up and that's were it's pooling at.