hudsonhawk

01 Forester AT 2.5L check engine light came on flashing today, ran a code scanner code came back P303. Earlier in the year the harmonic balancer was loose and threw off the timing, got a balancer repaired the crankshaft re-timed and good to go. When I saw the code I thought "Snap" and went to the balancer and timing again; all good on those fronts. Worked down the list of usual suspects, injectors have good resistance and are lifting (DMM and Mechanic Scope). Fuel check; next fire. Checked plugs and wires all good on visual continuity and resistance. Tad bit of oil high on the collar of wire 3, not enough to cause a misfire in my opinion (let me know if I am wrong on that). Got to cylinder 3 with the spark tester and no FIRE!? Which is really weird to due to Subbies using waste spark. Tested and rested to be sure (ie swap plugs and wires in multiple configs) still no fire in three. Ran resistance test on the primary and secondary coil it is within range according to the manual. Ran to autoparts store where I got the coil and they will warranty the coil, though I had to purchase it; then be reimbursed upon returning the defective unit. Scooted home plugged up the DMM and both coils read more or less the same with small variations; installed the new coil and like Tom Hanks we have fire. Will double check everything tomorrow, my question is should I be looking for another culprit? With how the Subbie is set up it is kind of odd, to have no fire in one cylinder. Thanks, HH

@ Loyale 2.7 Turbo Thanks for the info; that is exactly what I was looking for. I am curious if you see any advantage to twinning the fans as apposed to independent. I am leaning to independent; i.e. leaving the A/C fan as is and adding in the electric rad fan to run off its own switch. My thought is this will reduce load on the alt. with the A/C fan acting as it should in an auxiliary capacity, though I could be over thinking this. Here is what I am going to use to add in the thermo switch instead of tapping in some where else. @ Sasse The pass through tstat is at 185F I believe. Thank you for your thought. HH

Will be converting over to an electric radiator cooling fan soon in the 89 GL (decided that when I had to change the belts). Would like to get the communities thoughts on the temp range for the thermo switch. I believe the range for the factory one is 200-185F but I am not sure. I live in Arkansas where the temp ranges from 110 - 20F, vehicle is a DD most traffic I have is behind a combine during harvest. I am leaning towards a 190-175F switch, thoughts? Thanks for your time.