kidwired

Posted: Wed May 25, 2005 4:48 pm Post subject: FIXED mine today. I took everything apart trying to figure it out. Its an alignment issue. If your deck is already aligned skip 1 & 2 1. the hinge bolts allow you to adjust fore/aft but I also needed to adjust height of the trunk lid leading edge (closest to rear window). 2. To lower the leading edge simply open the trunk and push GENTLY forcing the trunk open. Adjusting the hinges this way individually. Careful it doesnt take much. to raise the leading edge height place a 2x4 on end in your trunk, place the top end on your trunk hinge (the U-part). And press down gently (shutting trunk motion). I said GENTLY!! 3. Next align latch assembly. Checking mine I coud see the lid latch had some minor deformation on the pass side edge and no wear marks on the drivers side. The lower latch had the same pattern. I loosened the 2 bolts on the lower and forced it left. On the the lid I loosened 2 bolts and forced it right. This not only will prevent the uneven wear but allows the cable actuator to fully move the Valet switch forward to realse the latch. *POP* Good luck Chris

Check your battery terminals and cables, clean and tight connections, inspect wireing and especially grnd terminations.

looked at my warranty book, it doesnt mention seatbelts. I'll call the dealer. Checked wires in the door to the latch switch. Code 11 (in the door) and Code 13 (front stop) is not in the door but in the A piller, behind the dash and in the kick panel. I think its unlikely its wiring related. Unless its a ground issue...

Is that warranty standard? or was it an extended?

my seat belt wont go forward. I got a code 11 (door switch stuck). I picked up a door latch w/ switch and Gnuman installed it (thanks Sanjay). Now I get a code 13 (front stop) I was ready for this as I had also picked up a complete motor and track assembly that worked. instaled the new front switch, ... same also the pass side has started acting goofy. wonder about my Controller. I tested my motor and it will run both ways. Ideas? anyone got a 1 to sell? I think the wag an sedan controller are the same. I guess I'll reset fuse 22 and see if that clears the problem

yes yes I did thank you! I was searching for GPM etc I forget what keyword turned it up. but I got it. oh and then I found it in my Mitchell OnDemand:banghead:

SANJAY!! Hey bro PM'd ya

I'm getting no where w/ this. Is the switch in the latch replaceable? or do I need an entire latch? Does anyone have a PN for the switch? What about the motor. I can't get it to run. is there a relay or something I can check? What -/+ to what wires should run it? theres a 2 wire connector I get - on the green and - on the blue, w/ door open and closed. Theres a 3 wire b/w open, y/r runs pass side seatbelt when I put positive to it. 2 blks both - And to replace the motor, do I need to remove the whole assembly including the cable?

thats weird...guess the bbs isnt notifying me oh I get it...no reply. I tried a different search and found 12.42 @5000rpm

Does anyone know the GPM for EJ22T? I'm trying to match an oil cooler.

Anyone know the psi ratings on these? I think- Legacy = 13psi WRX/sti= 20psi

AaahhhhAAA! so that means that Guage DIN faces for WRX will also fit!!!

pop rivits?

got a code 11- open and closed ends of drivers door latch switch are ON. hmmm yeah, that helps... soooo thats the switch in the latch. Do I just replace it? The seatbelt had been clicking, it's stopped... did I burn up the motor too? Is the switch replaceable or is a part of the door latch mechanism?

I broke my coolant res install the IC, replaced it w/ a wrx one. its just floating in the engine bay and I need to relocate it. I'm gonna move the battery and put the res there. I can't find coolant lines for 7.5mm, 11.5mm, or even 8mm or 12mm. All I could get were 5/16 and 1/2 and they were big and thick YECH! Maybe silicone? but where?