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About pvfahrer

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    New York, NY
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  1. thanks for the info on the ECU, unfortunate somebody bought it of the bay before i could act... I am using the Volkswagen automatic transmission so i don't use the TCU, going to check the pins later this week!
  2. Thanks folks! i will look into all these suggestions, the fuse that i am pulling is an additional in-line fuse in the conversion wiring loom, i will check what pin the 12V input is connected to and if it is hot all the time, but i am almost certain that it is. What pin is the main power-in supposed to go to? I have already looked into voltage output on a few sensors in off position, i found that the VSS, the inhibitor switch and parking break indicator light all show 5V when ignition is on or off, i believe this should not be the case. However the current draw is 0.2A when ignition is off and 3A when on (engine not running), so i guess the ignition relay or at least parts of that circuit work properly.
  3. Hi, first off, its my first post here, so please be kind if i am in the wrong category. My name is Andi, i have a VW Vanagon with an 1992 EJ22 most likely put of a legacy. I bought the VW with the conversion done by the PO and had to iron out some kinks in the beginning, now the car is running nicely. However, the battery (new) is getting drained when i leave the car in the street for a week. I have checked and the battery is getting charged by the alternator, so went and tested for parasitic current draw, and i found that there are about 200mA (0.2A) of parasitic draw. Reading up indicated that this is about 10 times higher than what is usually accepted as okay. So i went ahead and checked sources for the drain, I was able to figure out that when i pull the fuse for the ECU, the drain drops to 2mA, which is from the clock and the radio code. So th ECU itself draws the majorty of the current, i wen ahead and disconnected the alternator and the relays that are connected to the ECU, non of these had any impact on the parasitic drain. I am considering to try out a different ECU to make sure it is not just some weird defect to if (i read the rarely brake) but it would still be an easy test. So i am coming to my actual question, can somebody tell me what ECU is compatible with mine. The one that is in the car is a F9 22611 AA930 A18-000 RF6 I found one in the bay that seems to be very close but i wonder if it really is compatible: F9 22611 AA931F JA18-000 RK3 Alternatively, maybe somebody here has a functional compatible ECU lying around and would be willing to loan this to me, i would ofcourse cover the shipping and either way whether i keep it or return it, come up with a compensation.