pvfahrer

fume is white/blue, smells like oil i would say, not sweet and not black/fuel. I think its oil.. replaced the PCV valve 200mls ago.

Compression test shows 225+\-5 psi over all four cylinders.. car smoked heavily during warm up. Oil change tomorrow..

yeah, if i cant find anything obvious by eye/magnet/filter i might send it out for testing..

Okay, so went back to the car, no error codes in the ECU, started the engine up, no knocking noise which is reassuring, however the engine stared to blow an impressive cloud of smoke, which it never did before.. i am wondering if this is still remnants of the sea foam treatment, but that's more than 100miles and an oil change ago..well compression test and oil change back to 10w30 next and then some more oraceling...

i did'nt check the codes yet, thats a good idea! i have used a continental water pump and belt kit.. fingers crossed it's just that.

Here’s a weird one, I changed the oil in my ej251 vanagon conversion to 20W50 to see if the oil consumption is getting better. Engine ran fine before no unusual noises etc., earlier today I stopped at a street light when all of the sudden the engine started making a loud knocking noise, pulled over to check if anything came lose.. all tight, knocking sounded like rod knock.. I decided to baby the car home. After two minutes the knocking disappeared. Car stuttered two three times and was running as before… WTF?!? Can a rod knock be intermittent, did I lose the oil film for a moment? Is it the oils fault? I had 10w30 before, maybe I should go back to that?!? Head gaskets, timing belt, idler, tensioner and water pump are new. Any ideas here? I will drain the oil and replace it with 10W30 again, and see if there are any metal shavings in there. I will also check the timing belt tensioner, although it was new just 400mls back.

technically yes, but i ordered the other one from ebay. I ordered a rebuild pump for the right year from rockauto now. fingers crossed this one pans out, otherwise i have to return it..

I did a bit more digging, apparently the pump i got from the junkyard with he small bolt patter was 90-92 and my engine is 93-94.. Would this make sense that the early engines have the smaller bolt pattern and the later ones have the larger one? Also would you folks in general recommend rebuilding the old pump or just go with a rebuild/new one?

Hi folks, My power steering pump started to make noises and i am finding metal shavings in the oil. I was trying swap the pump with another pump that I got from the junk yard, only to find that the bracket had a larger bolt pattern. Can anybody help me to identify the pump that I need? The bracket that I have has the larger bolt pattern it differs maybe 3/8 - 1/2inch from the other pump that I got from the junk yard. The engine is a ej22 obd1 with two large connectors, so probably 1993-1994. Thanks!

sounds good, thanks!

yeah i guess that would be option 1B, i have somebody who's selling a EJ22 long block local for $150... rings and new head gaskets and maybe some odds and ends are probably $200. So i could also go with the EJ25 for the same money. The engine that mooens offered is a DOHC out of a Forester no EGR, so this would mean i could take the entire engien and plug and play it right into the EJ22 OBD1 loom, guess i would habe to get the appropriate ECU then?

Okay i see there is more information needed here, sorry. I have an EJ22 Obd1, likely 93-95 (only two grey connectors), in a VW vanagon. This engine seeps oil (got a lot better after replacing numerous seals and gaskets) and uses a lot of oil (1qt on 250mls) on the highway. I am trying to see what my best options are here. Option (1) take a EJ2.5 engine and slap my EJ22 heads on and do straight replace. Problem here is that i don't know the condition of my heads and my oil consumption and uneven compression could be from bad heads as well. So i would end up having to get the heads rebuild which defeats the purpose financially. Option (2) take the entire DOHC EJ25 engine and replace the EJ22 OBD1 with it. Here i am trying to understand to what extend the wiring of the EJ22 OBD1 is going to be compatible with the 99 EJ25. An additional question would be, are the wiring looms and ECU of lets say a 99 DOHC and a 98 SOHC engine identical/compatible. This would be for the case i start searching for a loom. Option (3) find a Subaru H6 and do the 6 cylinder conversion i was always dreaming off.. but thats kind of a long-term thing Option (4) stop wasting my time and get a modern car... although that will most likely not happen because this would be dull. SO i guess the main question i am having is, what wiring and ECU are compatible between engines and years.

can you tell me if the wiring of an EJ22 OBD1 will be combinable with the wiring of the 99 Forester engine? Probably not since its obd2, right?

cool, where are you located? you can also DM me if you prefer.

So, i am in touch with somebody here from the forum that has a decent recently re-sealed EJ25 engine for sale and i am trying to establish if this is a good choice for the Frankenmotor. The engine is a SOHC EJ25 apparently from a 2002 or 2003 Legacy GT with EGR. From what i can tell this should be an EJ251 or EJ252. From what i was able to get out of the information about the Frankenmotor, this would actually be a good candidate. @GeneralDisorder maybe you have a word to say on that?

so i replaced the PCV valve today, instead of finding it at the rear passenger side of the engine, i located it at the intake manifold... is this really where this is supposed to be? the valve appeared to be okay but i replaced it anyways. But is that really the place where is is supposed to be? i thought it was checking the crankcase pressure?! edit: i am a fool, turns out i have been watching an instruction for wrx engine were the valve is in the back... so everything is good, only i need to replace the hoses as well now..

i have been reading and got a bit confused about this, the block that i would be looking for would be an early EJ25 from 94-99, 251??. I'd also swap in a complete EJ25 with heads etc if there is a way to keep the wiring harness and my exhaust manifold. But I am not sure if the wiring between EJ22 (OBD1) and any EJ25 would be compatible.

yeah valve covers, pcv and a new oil sensor (leaking as well) are ordered and i will swap these before i do anything else... and then of course in case i should decide to pull the engine the question is, should i try and source a EJ25 short block and attempt a Frankenmotor. I would need to use the 22E heads because of all the OBD1 wiring and the exhaust manifold etc...I was trying to read up what the best way to go is, but my head is still spinning a bit.. all those numbers and combinations, also it seems the opinions about this have changed over the years.

but the i have to pull the engine/transmission to get to this plate, correct? edit... never mind i just looked it up and of course the engine has to get out..

yeah right, grommets are what i meant, they came with the seal set. lets hope it's something easy as that..

i cleaned the engine a couple times now to hunt down leaks, the crank seals, o-rings and plug were the worst so far. The valve cover gasket seem to leek from one of the screws so i ordered them new... will check on these and the pcv, hopefully this is addressing the leakage.

i have the valve cover seal already here havent had a chance to do them yet, maybe ill get to i this weekend.

yeah.. i hope its not that. the engine is build somewhere 90-93 and has the metal thermostat housing connector in case this is an indicator for what might be used for the oil/air separator.

well it leaks a bit of oil between transmission and engine which I believe comes from the rear main seal but i cant know for certain, the amount it leaks is very minor. I replaced the camshaft seals and the front crank seal because they leaked as well in the beginning, i also replaces the rear cam o-ring and the rear cam plug, it all helped to minimise the leaking but didnt stop it. So before i pull the gearbox to replace the rear crank seal, i want to make sure that this is actually worth it and the engine doesn't need a rebuild because it is sipping away oil through the rings. I've ordered the PCV seal since it appears a common problem and an easy fix. Maybe the increases crankcase pressure leaks to the oil loss on the rear seal as well... maybe not. I am also not a huge believer in additives, but using seafoam on this engine really improved the way running behaviour a lot.

good to know, i have been using 15W40 since the engine is in the heavier vanagon, but i can try the 10W30 next time again, ordered the PCV valve and will also replace the rubber hose since it has indeed a crack.