Legacy777

Welcome to the USMB!

You may have already posted this in the old gen forum, but if not, I am going to move your thread there.

Can you provide a little more details about the swap? Are you planning to run the correct engine with this ECU? As long as the appropriate sensors are feeding the ECU the correct info it should be fine. There are sensors off the engine that feed to the ECU, so you would need to do something about that. Another option or thought here is utilizing Open ECU or similar architecture to modify/tune that ECU to ignore or not use those sensors you don't have. I don't know how successfull this would be. For example, folks use the Open ECU, Cobb Tuning, or similar ECU tuning programs to turn off catalytic converter efficiency codes. Granted this is more of an emissions/compliance code vs. something that is critical for engine operation. More research would need to go into this option to identify the needed sensors and whether they are necessary for proper engine operation.

Thanks for sharing the instructions and info!

Yeah if you can post a pic that would be good. I am also going to move this to the new gen forum as well.

Welcome to the USMB. I will move this to the New gen forum.

A suggestion, if you use teflon tape, get the yellow tape that is rated for hydrocarbon service. It is typically used in natural gas service, but can be used with oil as well. Regular white teflon tape will degrade over time when in constant contact with oil. It may not cause a leak, but it's good to use the yellow stuff so it holds up better.

You need to install a tee in the fuel line after the fuel filter. Unfortunately there is no port to tie into.

Ray, Yes the wiring does have a canbus electrical system. I don't know how the OEM remote starter is configured, but if it's a more or less plug & play option, it may give you less issues in the long run vs. an aftermarket where it has to be hard wired into the system.

I think it would be good to start with the suggestions around the battery terminals. I can't say that they caused your most recent issue, but usually when you try and troubleshoot something, if you identify a problem, you should fix that, see if it fixes the problem, if not, continue troubleshooting until you find the problem.

This may help. I'd suggest checking the wiring color to see if what's in there matches. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/looking-99-legacy-gt-ecu-pinout-111923.html If it does, it looks like pin 81 is the AT/MT identifier.

Welcome to the USMB Jerrad! Yeah, the crowd on the USMB is pretty friendly. I agree with you, after driving AWD cars for some years now, it would be difficult to go back to something else.

Hi and welcome to the USMB. Unfortunately, I don't know of a similar app in Russian. Hopefully another member may know of another site or app that has something similar.

Roy, Welcome to the USMB! That's a cool van you have! I haven't seen one of those before. As for spare parts, I'm not sure I'll be of much help. We didn't get those in north america, but hopefully some other members can chime in with some suggestions on where to get parts.

Check fuse 14 labeled EGI/TCU. Here's a listing of the fuses and diagram http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/118.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/119.jpg The TCU is under the driver's kick panel. This picture is looking just under the left side of the steering column http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

I don't think the low beams should stay on....but hopefully someone with an 00-04 Legacy/Outback can confirm.

Welcome to the USMB! I personally think the first gen Legacies are some of the toughest subies out there. You can abuse them and they keep on chugging.

My issues were on my 1990 Legacy. I also recently had poor and random running issues on my 97 Impreza. It however did throw a code for the MAF sensor. I swapped it with a spare one I had and it's working fine now.

I edited your topic title so it's a little clearer. What bulb are you running, H4's?

Welcome to the USMB

I too had a similar issue with my MAF sensor. The engine would lose power and studder sometimes, and sometimes it would just die.

Does the engine turn over when you are having problems starting the car or do you just hear a click? Is there any consistency when the problem happens, for example do you only have problems when the engine is cold and the car has sat over night or during the day? Or does it happen whether the engine is cold or hot? Your answers above should help us is narrowing down where to look. Additionally, if the battery terminals are not tight, that could be contributing to the problem. If they won't tighten around the battery posts, you may need to replace the connectors. It may seem kind of ghetto, but using a small screw in between the battery post and connector can help and allow you to fully tighten the battery terminals.

Do you know what vehicle the others are out of?

Welcome to the USMB. I'm going to move your post to the old gen forum. It should get some more replies there.

I'm going to move this to the new gen forum.