1stSubie

I've noticed this a few times. I have a 2016 Legacy 2.5i premium. On occasion when I've opened the hood after driving, to say fill the wiper fluid as I did yesterday, I smell a bit of an oil smell. Granted, I had an oil change about 5 weeks ago but I've noticed this before between oil changes, and I got a decent whiff of it late last winter when I didn't open the hood but cleaned out the packed snow from the grille. The air escaped from the engine compartment and I smelled a bit of oil. It's not strong or anything and it doesn't come into the vents while I'm driving. Sometimes after parking it and walking away from the car, I swear I smell a passing whiff of oil, also. It doesn't appear to be leaking. It doesn't really consume much oil and I've been watching my dipstick. Maybe a teeny bit but not even enough to bring it down to the full line as the Subaru dealership always fills it a bit above the full line. I've heard something about cam cases in this generation Subaru having some leaking. I'm not sure where that is or how to check it, even if just visually. I have 15 months left on my CPO extended warranty on the powertrain so if something needs addressing, I'd like to tackle it ASAP. I'm wondering if something may have a small leak and it just burns off at the site so it's not actually dripping.

CPO warranty is only for the powertrain. I took it to an independent Subaru specialist mechanic and they said they think the most likely thing is the ignition cylinder is failing but they didn't tear down the steering wheel to inspect what's inside because one, it was a free inspection, and two, those parts breaking are basically unheard of. They had to jiggle the key to get the ignition to work which is why they said they thought it was the ignition cylinder. Deal is, I had that replaced a few weeks ago. Looking back, I'm not sure it NEEDED replacing especially with what happened today when I went to mess with the steering wheel lock. I saw on YouTube some videos that suggested a couple shots of WD 40 in the key hole if the ignition doesn't want to turn. So I did it. And after a few tries, it got easier and easier to turn even with the steering wheel locked. I just locked and unlocked the wheel about 15 times and the WD 40 seems to have made a big difference and it began acting like a real ignition cylinder again. It's one of those things, with my being a woman, sometimes I wonder if mechanics see that and play me for a fool as I saw happen to my immigrant mother a few times when I was a kid. Or maybe just some of these mechanics are idiots, I don't know, but the Subaru specialist I took the car to also did a general inspection and said that my rear differential fluid was looking kind of dirty and should be changed soon. Deal is, I had the differential fluid done 4,200 miles ago, so someone is making things up. Did I not get the fluid changed or is this new mechanic lying? EDIT: I was told by an associate that the best thing for car locks (or locks in general) is dry graphite lubrication, so I'll get some of that and keep it handy.

So today I had the dealership replace the ignition switch, solenoid and bolt. It ended up being $709. And it's done it anyway twice in the past hour and I've had the car back barely 7 hours.

No damage that I know of. I bought it CPO just over a year ago and it has 45,500 miles on it.

Well, I just got back from a Denver-area Subaru dealership and they said the problem is in the ignition cylinder and it needs replacing and re-keying to fit my current keys. Estimate is $878 including locksmith. $637 for ignition cylinder and rekey. That price looks awfully steep... Granted the price includes the base $150 charge for diagnosing the problem.

Btw have you locked the wheel again since then? I was doing it intentionally as an anti-theft aid.

It is! And I did it myself. I gave it a good heave-ho several times like the dealership said and it gave. I'm avoiding locking it back up until I get it serviced, though. I have to get to work all week before they can see me!!

In this case, I was always turning the wheel to the right when I turn off the car to lock the wheel as an extra security feature but as of late it was getting increasingly more difficult to unlock at times. I called the dealership and they said turn it really hard and try it again. I did and it wasn't working at first and then it gave way. I drove it to the dealership but their appointments are booked up so I cannot lock the steering wheel until I get in there next Thursday morning. I just have it parked with the wheel unlocked and my Club steering wheel lock on top. It took from 3pm yesterday until 10:15 this morning to unlock it. I probably made at least 300 attempts to unlock the wheel in that time. It'll cost $150 apparently just to diagnose the issue, but who cares. I broke my butt and paid cash for this car. Maybe I'll get a discount since it's still under the CPO contract although that only covers powertrain and and transfer case?

I did as per the manual just in case although previously I never did and had no issue.

Although I did notice the last week I couldn't turn it with the key facing in any direction as before and had to flip it with one side facing forward. So who knows. I'm calling the tow truck shortly.

I don't think it's that because I tried the other key yesterday and it was doing the same thing. I thought I had a problem with the ignition cylinder when I was sticking previously so I experimented with parking and removing the key without locking the wheel and reinserting the key and the ignition turned just fine. As soon as they answer the phone, I'm going to call the dealer and see what I can do. This thing is holding like cement.

Well I don't have any jack but the cheapo one in the trunk and the car is parked on a but of an uphill angle. Beside that, the wheels are currently straight already. I've had it do this on flat ground as well, although I was able to free it. This has to be some mechanical flaw... ?

Eek! This is a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium. I've had some fussiness before when I have locked the steering wheel by turning it to the right until it clicks when I park (intentionally as a security measure) as in it has previously resisted my turning the wheel and key to unlock it so I had to try several times. It has a history of acting up but I didn't take it in, not certain if it was me doing something wrong as the problem was intermittent. This time, though, the thing is stuck fast and NOTHING I am trying is working. The owner's manual procedure didn't help, either, and none of the YouTube videos or Google searches are fruitful. I don't think it's the ignition cylinder as when the wheel isn't locked I have never had an issue turning the ignition. It's when the wheel is turned to the right and snapped into the locked position that this happens, when it happens. I suspect the steering wheel's locking spring is tight and isn't giving. The question is what can I do? Is this the cause? I've been out several times in the last 8 hours to try to resolve this by fiddling with the wheel, brake, and ignition and it's a no-go. Hope to find some ideas here before tomorrow calling the dealership and shoveling out the dough and hoping they can come and do a mobile visit. I am just thankful I made it home from my doctor appointment and the car is outside (albeit in an area where it would be quite difficult to tow) my apartment.