msteel

(short version) Bingo. (Long version) My meter was acting funny so I replaced the batteries. Now it says the coil is 4.5 ohms. I jumped the coil to the battery and the clutch clicked in (but engine wasn't running) Looked at the my Haynes manual for wiring diagrams to locate the relay. Somewhat helpful but the diagram shows a different relay block than I have. Finally found the relay by.....um....actually reading the cover to the relay block under the hood. Removed AC relay, took voltage readings to verify the pressure switch was supplying power and things looked good. Swapped the A/C relay with the second radiator fan and, I now have working A/C and non-working radiator fan. Alas, none of the relays in my junk pile match (mostly they are from my '94 Loyale parts car), so I had to order one from the local parts store.

I did read the voltage on the harness (unplugged the coil and read the connector) and open circuit the coil connector was getting decent voltage. The voltage would come and go as the A/C button was turned on and off. So it seems to me the control circuitry is asking the compressor to run. I tapping the front of the clutch did not produce any effect - it did not engage, or try to engage as far as I could tell. I think my next steps will be to one or more of the following: * Check coil voltage with the coil in the circuit to detect excessive voltage drop in the supply relay or wiring. * Bypass the supply wiring with a fused line straight from the battery and see if the clucth engages under those circumstances.

So, I think my A/C compressor clutch is bad (2007 Outback Wagon 2.5i Basic). I'd like some comments about whether my diagnosis is reasonable and any "gotcha's" in the replacement process. I noticed my A/C quitting - intermittently at first then as time went on less and less often. It seems like it is more likely to work when the engine is cold, first thing in the morning. When the air works it cools well, but it doesn't usually run very long before it stops. I thought it might be low on refrigerant, but I put a gauge (borrowed my dad's cheap one from a refrigerant can) and the low side read 150psi, so I didn't put in any refrigerant and looked elsewhere. When it doesn't work the clutch is does not spin. Once when it was not working, I measured the voltage to the clutch coil and it was plenty - I think it was around 14 volts - but that was no load. The coil resistance measured 20 ohms, and from what I read several places on the internet the coil should be more like 3-5 ohms (really, the thing pulls 4 amps?). Any other diagnostics I should try before I order a clutch kit? It seems Subaru doesn't sell the clutch separate from the compressor but I do see an aftermarket kit on amazon and the coil by itself on eBay so there are some sources. Am I likely to have a pressed on pulley and have a hard time getting the pulley off with the compressor in the car? Thanks.

Yes, my sister got checked out and was sore for a few days but seems fine. As to her car, I don't have pics and am not at the car at the moment, possibly could have pics later today. The hit was square on. The center of the bumper is pushed in at least 6 inches, the hatch is crumpled and the spare tire area is affected at least enough that the hardboard cover won't sit flat anymore. The hit was hard enough that the car also sustained significant front end damage as it was pushed into the car ahead (likely would have bumped without damage without the rear hit). I had not been aware of the subrfame recall until a few days ago and do not know if the car had the cleaning/rusproofing done under the previous owner. I can still ask him in case he remembers. Otherwise I suppose I'll have to have the dealer look up records?

My sister has the same 2002 outback as me. Mine has a rusty subframe that is starting to make me nervous. Hers is not rusty but it got rear ended a week ago and is totalled. If she buys it back from the insurance (she knows someone interested in the engine) I am considering if it would be wise to swap the rear subframe from her car into mine, or of it is likely to have been damaged in the collision. Anybody seen enough wrecked Outbacks to have an opinion?

Ok, well I finally got this thing back together. As several people suggested I put new flares into the lines under the rear seat. From there I ran a length to the factory unions and this part was pretty easy. I had bent premade lines before, but I hadn't done any double flares before so it took some practice on scrap and old lines to feel like I knew what I was doing. From there the line to the passenger side wheel was pretty straightforward. But I found the driver side line to be a royal pain as it went practically over the gas tank and had obviously been installed at the factory before the tank was put in. I finally decided on the tactic of bending the line as I fished it rather than ahead of time. This worked ok, but getting the bends right was more difficult that way. Of course the rust is the reason for the line failure, but the rust also meant rusted bolts, trouble getting access panels off, broken rusted bolts, drilling and tapping out a rusty bolt, etc. I told my wife several times that when her dad offered me an amazing deal on his current Outback (which is how I got this one) that she should remind me how much I hate rusty cars. I'm just glad it's back running after a week.

OK, well the leak is obvious now. It is at the couplings ahead of the right rear wheel. All four lines are pretty well rusted at the couplings, although the two that come from the front are in pretty good shape up until then. It it reasonable to put a new flare in those lines? Or am I faced with the joyous task of replacing the lines all the way from the proportioning valve under the hood?

I hadn't thought of the fluid coagulating, that would explain not seeing a leak. I guess I'll have to pull the wheels then and check that. Even though it's a southern car now, it does have rust from its early years in New York State, so I'll have to keep that location over the gas tank in mind. My previous Loyale had an exciting sudden brake line failure from a rusted line, and I'd rather not repeat that. There is only one vacuum hose to the booster, right? I didn't notice any signs of wetness when I checked it. The ABS unit does bear some investigation. It had a small amount of some kind of fluid, but I was thinkng it was engine oil that got there during the recent valve cover gasket job (had a misfire and found the plug seals were bad and plug wires were oily). I'll have to clean it off and see if it returns.

My 2002 Outback is losing brake fluid. I keep having to top it off. I have put in at least a pint in the last few weeks. It seems like it pretty much happens only in colder weather (which in this context is around freezing). I don't see any obvious leaks - no fresh spots on the ground. On a couple of occasions I have pumped up the brakes after shutting off the engine and hours later when I got back in the pedal was still firm. To me that makes it less likely I have a leaky line (unless the ABS keeps pressure even when a wheel line leaks in those conditions?) I pulled off the vacuum hose on the brake booster and didn't see any sign of fluid in the hose - so it didn't seem to me like the booster was leaking into the manifold. Any common places I should look next for this leak?

Just fixed these exact symptoms on my 2002 Outback. It was hesitating and then as the problem got worse, I started having small explosions in the exhaust. One cylinder was not firing and unburned fuel was getting into the hot exhaust. I replaced the plugs and wires (and the valve cover gaskets since the seals around the plugs were leaking oil onto them) and all was well again.

Success! The combination of this loaner tool (OEM puller 27037) from Auto Zone: And some hammering with an 8 pound hammer got it loose. Once it was out, the new axle went in easily. I disconnected the knuckle from the strut instead of the ball joint because I was also replacing the struts. And it needed aligned anyway.

That sounds like a very safe thing to do. Aside from the quality of the HF puller, would a good puller of this style be made to be hit? In any case I'm out of time until Monday or Tuesday. Maybe the answer will become clear by then.

And I thought that now that I've left EA82 land for Legacy land, the axles would be tons easier :-\

Thanks for the suggestions. P'Blaster has been on it several hours, but because the hub is still on the car it's not quite in a position to soak. I'm considering bringing the knuckle inside because I already have the strut loose and all I'd need to do was disconnect the ABS sensor and one end of the ball joint or the other. I'm a bit afraid I'll need a drill and a tap to get the pinch bolt out... I'll have to see about Kroil. I've seen it but never used it. I also have some "Berkebile" I think, was in the car when I bought it from my father in law. Never heard of hammering on the screw of the puller. That would at least give me something stable enough to let me use both hands on the hammer.

[EDIT - solved!!! See below] Anybody got any hints for getting a stubborn axle out of the hub? I have the nut off, and have the inner end of the axle disconnected from the transmission, but I can't get the outer end out of the splines in the hub. I've tried beating it out, and I have tried a 3-jaw puller, which resulted in breaking the puller (Harbor Freight...) The car is a 2002 Outback. I suspect rust is involved...