welly

I have this code and a virtually permenant CEL. I figure its the rear sensor needing replaced on the exhaust. Car has 148,000 miles on it and this has been an issue for last 20k at least. I changed the front O2 sensor at 100k hence why I figure it needs the rear now. Always passes the annual test over here (MOT) including emisions test so i know its not the cat, or at least not in a measurable way. But a car that young as others say should be warranty covered - so its one for the dealer. Be interesting to find out what they say/ ho they reapir it.

Feel a bit out of it here with only 130k miles on my 2.5 Legacy MT (2000 my). Did the HGs at 100k when I fitted new rear exhaust parts. Was impressed with the original lasting 7 years - and the front part is still original. Not long after that had to replace clutch (release bearing went and clutch was pretty worn when I had a look at it). But i would fully intend to keep this till 200k at least and with, I hope, no more major expense. Quite happy doing the basics myself, might give timing belt a go myself next time. I do have access to a good mechanic who doesnt charge the earth so that keeps costs down. Had a Saab that did 190k with no issues and my motorcycle has 102,000 miles on it. I like vehicles to last; my wife tends to like something thats not too old.

In response to why the pad from pass side is shaped like that - what does the other pad from that wheel look like? I had same on mine but both pads off the same wheel were shaped the same but opposite if that makes sense when you put them together the backing plates were parallel. Turned out I had a siezed caliper pin and the other wasnt far behind. I have now taken to more regular investigation and greasing of the pins. Had the same occur on one of the back calipers too. Damn salty roads in the winter!

My 2000 Lecagy did that too on its first set of tyres. I think after 15,000 miles inside of the fronts were bald - I then started rotating tyres front to back every 7000 miles. Been fine since and I get nice even tyre wear.

I have a 2000 my Legacy estate (outback over there I think) which had the same problem. Although not as much water as you I would get it dumping out the lights cluster when I opened the tailgate. Apparently it was due to the seal that goes between the rear lights panel that runs right across the tail in one unit. Behind this is like a rubber sheet (as my mechanic described it) which I got him to replace - after that there has been no issues since. That was 6 years and 90,000 miles ago.

Great article and pictures. With these I might just give my next timing belt change a try myself. The pictures certainly give you confidence.

Even with the CEL out the car will still store the fault code that triggered it. Any OBD II reader will get it for you.

2001 MT Legacy 2.5 SOHC 111,000 miles. The other day 50 miles into a 200 mile trip my clutch went in a big way. Almost no warning , slight squeeking noise, some roughness when using the clutch. Pulled over then tried to pull away again and it went with noise and acrid smoke coming out the engine bay. Diagnosis by recovery mechanic is that the release bearing has most likely gone. So I thought I would get that replaced and do the clutch parts while I was in there. However according to my Subaru dealer my car has a dual mass flywheel. On these it is normally recommended to replace the DM also if you are in the clutch anyway. However a DM flywheel is $1100 and with the rest of the clutch part and labour I am looking at a totasl in the region of $1800 for the whole job. Thahts just too much. I am prepared to replace the "standard" clutch parts including the release bearing and leave the DM flywheel. If the clutch plate still has wear left I mifght even just replace the release bearing and keep my costs down. What is everyones experience or opinion especially on replacing or not the DM flywheel. Are these parts really considered a wear and tear item? Is it easy to judge the condition of the DM flywheel? If it looks okay should I just leave it and hope it keeps going? If I can get another 2 years out the car I would be happy - thats about another 20k miles. I havent got the clutch torn down yet so not exactly sure of the full extent of the problem. Could the release bearing have broken up and damaged anything else?

Here we go- data for low range @ 1000 rpm 1st --2 mph 2nd--9 mph 3rd--12 4th--16 5th--21 Hope this helps.

I got caught out with this. Hadnt looked at the brakes for a while (10k miles and over winter) and when I did some of these pins had seized and I had differential wearing on the pads. One of the rubber bellows covers was torn and this pin was a was stuck fast. Replaced the pads and all 4 pins and rubber belows (originals with 100k miles on them the pins). I now take them out every 6k miles when I rotate wheels and re grease them. I think its probably a combination of lack of grease and water (especially salty when they salt the roads) ingress that causes the problems.

I think the main difference is that the Suby makes more torque at lower revs. TBH when I drive in any gear and any range I rarely use 3000 rpm (it will for example happily accelerate from 1800 rpm in 5th gear on normal road driving) unless I want to smartly press on. When I do use low range - usually when pulling a trailer load of logs I never get to 3000 rpm in any gear. The low range is really good for getting going. What might be more interesting would be to do it again at 1000 rpm. Let me know - am happy to get you the data.

Speed @ 3000 rpm in low range: 1st - 14 mph 2nd - 24 mph 3rd - 35 mph 4th - 42 mph 5th - 60 mph

Have not thought of the low range usage in slow town traffic. - I like it for this. Love to get the figures from a testdrive at 3000 rpm. I can ask it in this post to as it seems like you might have the correct answer, is it possible to shift between low and high while under way? Yes you can shift under way. You just de clutch and shift range. I will get you data from 3000 rpm. The mpg is lower then I thought, have seen figures of 33-34 mpg on the freeway doing 55 mph, and 26-27 in city traffic. Is that 4.55 lt gallons? To be honest most I have ever got was 31 mpg I believe. Havent done much motorway driving but I figure I am doing well to get 30.

Hi Sturgeon I have 2001 2.5 manual over here in Scotland. It has low/hi range which I like a lot especially if crawling in stop go town traffic. We dont have as much snow as your but the little I have done on snow with snow tyres I think the Suby will go anywhere ground clearence permitting. I have 110k miles on mine now and it has been trouble free. Did HG last year - external leak that had been there for over 80,000 miles and I finally got fed up topping up the coolant all the time. Over here in Uk there seems to be confusion over T belt inteervals. In the USA they have options for 105k mile belt or I believe 60k miles. My handbook and dealer task cards mention TB every 45k miles. Other literature says 60k miles. I did mine at 60k and it was fine. No bad wear or similar issues so I am going to stick with this interval. If no one else post up I will test drive mine and give you mph for 3000 revs in first gear both low and high range. I dont tow anything like your boat load so can comment. But when I go get my firewood from the forest I like the low range to get moving with a heavy trailer. I only pull this short distances , 10 kms. MPG freeway is around 28 (UK gallon = 4.55 litres). Dont do much in town but mixed driving get 26 - 28. Hope this helps.

Last week I fitted new pluigs and leads to my 2.5 110k mile Legacy. Is it just me or would this make the car run better and seem to have more get up and go? I am assuming the new plugs and wires are giving me better/ more efficient combustion - or am I just imagining the whole thing?