NC83TurboGL

20220330_194600.mp4

1984 Turbo GL Wagon 116K miles, off the road since 1997 (hard to believe that is 25 years ago) After sorting distributor issues and new injectors it is running Compression 1,2,3 Cylinders 150 psi #4 130 psi Oil Pressure with a not new but not trashed Oil Pump and new 10w30 at 50 ambient temp startup 40 psi Oil Pressure dropping down to between 10 and 12 Psi at Idle when fully warmed up. Thinking it may have a rod knock, piston ring broken or lifter not pumping up based on Oil Pressure readings and engine noise. Looking for opinions on source of noise see video

Here it looks like there is an oring in between the main body and the gear plate, but my Turbo pump diagram doesn't show it what gives??

Yes I have been using and impact screwdriver, but even with heat the phillips bit and the screws are getting damaged and the screw is not starting to rotate.

My Turbo pump parts diagram shows no gasket or oring, but other EA81 pump disassembly diagrams show an oring. Is a EA81T specific oil pump the same as a Carbed EA81 oil pump just with the addition of the cylinderical extension which feeds the turbo and oil cooler in between main pump body and the oil filter?

Trying to verify whether there is a oring or gasket between the pump main body and the plate on my EA81T oil pump. The Turbo wagon that I am trying to resurrect has been off the road for 25 years. The orings on the outside of the body that fits in the crankcase bore were super hard and brittle. I have tried removing the 2 phillips screws that hold the plate over gears on the pump but even with heat and PBblaster they are not moving and the phillips heads are starting to strip. If I need to take them out they will probably need to be drilled out. However if there is no oring or gasket to replace in there I am not sure whether I want risk cracking the pump case by continuing to attempt to remove the two screws.

Well not exactly sure what I did... could be replacing what seemed to be stainless screws on the stator magnet with new stainless that were less magnetic or reshimming the drive gear... whatever it is I don't care bc I finally have spark with the distributor properly installed!!! Now onto fuel, but first checking oil pressure and flow. ezgif.com-gif-maker.mp4

After replacing old wires in the harness.... which changed nothing spark wise, I took the gear off the distributor to verify it is the dist gear touching the crank drive gear that kills the spark. It is, when the gear is removed I get spark even when the distributor is fully pushed home in the crankcase.

I started to wonder whether instead of a grounding issue perhaps it is a magnetic issue. I was think somehow the gear or the crankshaft has developed a magnetic charge. But I don't the gear on the crank is ferrous metal, I think it is brass. Right now I am completely redoing the B/W + and Yellow - lead wires from the coil to the distributor. I don't think it will fix the problem but the insulation on each had a few worn through spots so it needs to be done anyway.

I started to wonder whether instead of a grounding issue perhaps it is a magnetic issue. I was think somehow the gear or the crankshaft has developed a magnetic charge. But I don't the gear on the crank is ferrous metal, I think it is brass. Right now I am completely redoing the B/W + and Yellow - lead wires from the coil to the distributor. I don't think it will fix the problem but the insulation on each had a few worn through spots so it needs to be done anyway.

Just to make sure I cleaned the coil bracket and it's mounting points and installed the coil in it's bracket bolted to the body. Still no change.

Yes, the drive gear on the crank is fine the distributor turns properly with the engine when fully inserted. Fairly certain this is purely electrical not mechanical. Some crazy grounding problem I believe but I can't isolate what is changing.

The gear on the replacement dizzy is fine it meshes with crank and rotates correctly when pushed home in bore, but then Spark disappears. However to my knowledge what initially caused this 83 Turbo to get junked was the original distributor seized up and broke the drive gear off.

Yes, it does the same thing every time. Generates spark when in the bore but gear not meshed, NO spark once meshed. If completely removed from bore isolated from ground NO spark, if any part of housing and or shaft is grounded with the dizzy out of the case it always Produces spark no matter how I move the shaft.

Also the brass heatsink spacers look identical between old dist and reman, however the previous owner messed one up in his attempt to build a hybrid dist combining bits of a non turbo EA81 with the wrecked original dizzy ezgif-1-af87a6b7f761.mp4

Also the brass heatsink spacers look identical between old dist and reman, however the previous owner messed one up in his attempt to build a hybrid dist combining bits of a non turbo EA81 with the wrecked original dizzy

Step-a-toe Thanks for your replies. Yes this definitely has me scratching my head. If I ground wire the distributor outside the case it always gives good spark no matter how much I try to move the shaft vertically or horizontally. Also there is No significant play in the shaft in any direction. The distributor was purchased off Ebay a while ago after much searching for one under $300 so no ability to return/exchange. I feel like I should by some means be able to replicate the no spark condition with the dizzy outside the case and therefore trace what likely is a very odd grounding problem but thus far no luck. It seems to be shaft related somehow as I can also get spark as long as the drive gear has not meshed. Does anyone know if the shaft is supposed to be insulated from ground completely? I see no mention of any insulating washers or bushings, between the shaft the gear and the body in either my 83-84 factory shop manual or factory parts book.

I am trying to resurect a 1983 Turbo Wagon that was junked 25 years ago due to a bum distributor. The previous owner had tried to rig a non Turbo Hitachi distributor to work with no luck. I bought a reman Beck Arnley correct Turbo Hitachi to try to get the ignition system in order. After much testing I realized the Ignitor in the reman dist was no good. I swapped the used Ignitor from the original Turbo dist. Now I have spark when the Distributor is grounded out of the case or inserted partially into the case. However when I insert the Distributor all the way and the drive gear is meshed I lose spark. I thought ok I will try to replicate whatever grounding issue is happening when the drive gear meshes on the crank by clamping a ground onto the Dist Drive gear but when I do this I still get good spark. I have cleaned all grounds. Any insight or advice short of trying to round up another EA81T Distributor or Ignitor Module??? Any help greatly appreciated