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forester2002s last won the day on April 12 2016

forester2002s had the most liked content!

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About forester2002s

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    2002 Forester; 2017 Forester
  1. Take lots of photos before you disconnect anything. As you remove nuts and bolts, put them into containers (old yogurt containers, cut-off plastic bottles, children's snack containers etc). And in each container put a small piece of paper, with a brief description, e.g. 'starter-motor bolts', 'valve-cover bolts' etc. If your engine is dirty/oily, I suggest doing an engine shampoo before you start.
  2. A likely suspect would be your 'remanufactured' front axles. It could be that the joints on those axles have worn in a way that you hear the ticking sound when the axles are loaded, but not when the axles are unloaded.
  3. Sounds similar to the old 'marble in the ash-tray' symptom.
  4. OK, I misread your earlier post, thinking that this happened after the store had completed changing all wheels. But if they found the bad stud at the beginning, then it may not have been their fault after all. But I am also very nervous of shop personnel wielding air-wrenches, set to who-knows-what torque.
  5. Check all the other studs' threads !!
  6. I've never done it, but I think that you can hammer each stud out, by hitting it in the threaded end. May have to be done off the car...
  7. Just a thought... Is the buzzer working? Try 12V across the buzzer (if you can find it!)
  8. Sounds like a problem with the starter Could be as simple as worn-out starter-contacts. They are replaceable. Or you might need a replacement starter assembly. Subaru OEM from a scrap-yard might work well.
  9. ...or one from a car that was totalled in an accident.
  10. Could be a problem with the starter. If it happens again, tap the starter with a hammer, small rock, 2x4, or something similar. This can sometimes temporarily fix worn contacts in the starter.
  11. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html#legacy Outback
  12. I would go with an aftermarket hitch: Hidden-Hitch, Curt or something similar. The Class I hitch and the Class II hitch both use a 1.25" fitting. The Class I is slightly cheaper to buy, but only by a few dollars. I have always bought the Class II as it is more substantial than the Class I. Both are designed with the same attachment points to the underside of the car. But, as others have said, it is usually the vehicle's tow rating that governs. Installing an aftermarket hitch is no big deal, and you can either do it yourself, or get a shop to do it. Either way, it will be cheaper than getting a Subaru hitch installed at a Subaru dealership.
  13. And the other factor when towing, is SPEED. Go up a hill FAST, and the engine is putting out a lot of energy, and is more likely to overheat. Go up a hill SLOWLY, and the engine is not working as hard, and will generate less waste heat, and is less likely to overheat.