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forester2002s last won the day on July 7 2019

forester2002s had the most liked content!

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About forester2002s

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    Subaru Fanatic!

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    Vancouver Canada
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  • Vehicles
    2002 Forester; 2017 Forester

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  1. I'm not expert, but isn't classic Japanese script very similar to Chinese script? I.E. could this be a Japanese product?
  2. Check for hairline cracks in the ceramic-insulator of the spark-plug for the misfiring cylinder. A hairline-crack is hard to spot, but can allow leakage of high-voltage pulses, and might be giving you the misfire code.
  3. It could be wheel-bearings. I have had body-vibrations on my 2002 Forester (worse at about 105 km/h = 65 mph), and twice this has been rear-wheel bearings. I found the source of these vibrations difficult to trouble-shoot. The wheels show no looseness; there no noticeable heat build-up on the hubs; and it's difficult to identify whether the vibration comes from front or rear, left or right. Eventually to noise and vibration worsened, and the source was obvious. A couple of ideas: - what happens if you slip the car into neutral, and apply the brakes very gently? Does the vibration feel different? - what happens if you drive at speed round a very gentle curve to the left or right? Does the vibration feel different? If the answer is 'yes' to either, it could be wheel-bearings.
  4. First things that I would try: - Switch #1 spark-plug with adjacent. Still get the same code? - Switch #1 spark-plug wire with adjacent. Still get the same code? Do these sequentially, not both at the same time. Otherwise you can't tell which one made a change.
  5. Once you have a drum off, and before you touch anything, take a quick photo of the brake assembly. Do both left and right sides; they are slightly different. So if you have any doubt about how it all goes back together, you can refer to the photos.
  6. This may be a stupid question, but have you tried a fresh battery for the key-fob?
  7. My 2002 Forester 5MT does the same, and has since it was new. I think that it's normal.
  8. Could be a number of things. But one easy one is to check is that the wheel lug-nuts are tight...
  9. I can't comment on whether this is a good idea or not. But if you do cut & re-weld, consider that the assembly may have been rotationally balanced by the manufacturer. If so, have the machinist mark the two halves before cutting, and then re-weld in the same orientation.
  10. OP = Original Poster PO = Previous Owner
  11. https://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html
  12. Try changing the PCV valve. (use Subaru OEM only).