Jump to content

forester2002s

Members
  • Content count

    1011
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

forester2002s last won the day on March 29

forester2002s had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

139 Excellent

About forester2002s

  • Rank
    Subaru Fanatic!

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Vancouver Canada
  • Occupation
    none
  • Vehicles
    2002 Forester; 2017 Forester

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I would be cautious about tying the seat-heaters into another existing circuit. The seat-heaters draw quite a bit of power (they are 'heaters' after all), and could easily overload a circuit designed for something else.
  2. An overheated bulb-connector might be caused by a non-standard bulb. Some folks use high-intensity (and therefore high-wattage) bulbs to get better lighting from the headlamps. Worth checking the other side as well.
  3. History of Subaru CVTs: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions#Continuously_variable
  4. The EJ25 engines typically have peak torque at around 4000 r/min. And torque drops off quickly below 2000 r/min. So I tend to keep the engine speed between 2000 and 4000 r/min (for my style of driving, there's rarely any need to go higher than 4000).
  5. On my 2017 Forester, the Subaru designers have taken this to the extreme: there's no temperature gauge at all!!
  6. Low on refrigerant? If so, clutch won't engage until the refrigerant pressure is higher.
  7. Check your spare tire! And check that the wheel lug-nuts are not on so tight, that you cannot remove them using the Subaru-supplied wheel-wrench.
  8. I replaced my original 2002 Forester radiator about a year ago. It had a hairline crack in the plastic header near to the upper hose. I had been losing coolant very slowly for several months, but there was no obvious leak to be seen. The coolant loss gradually increased until one day, when I lifted the hood, I could see steam coming from the header. My replacement radiator was a TYC from Amazon. Good price and delivered quickly. One year later and all is fine, with no more coolant loss.
  9. I agree that axles are probably the main problem. But you should check the 3 engine mounts: - 2 lower-mounts between the engine and cross-member; - 1 upper-mount (dog-bone) between engine and fire-wall. If any of these mounts have failed (delaminated rubber?), this could be either the cause of the vibration, or else collateral damage from another source (e.g. axles).
  10. It goes almost without saying, that the car should not be driven (nor even the engine started). There's a real risk of fire or explosion with a leaking gas-tank.
  11. Just to be sure: Does the CEL lamp light up during the test-mode on starting up? All warning-lamps should light up briefly when starting the car. If the CEL lamp is not working, then no CEL problem will show up during driving.
  12. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine
  13. Are these USPS cars manuals? Or automatics? I would guess that the stop-start nature of a mail route would be hard on an MT-clutch, no matter how skilled/careful is the driver. But I suspect that an AT would last longer with that kind of service.
  14. My two wheel-bearing failures were both hard to diagnose. I bought an Infra-Red temperature gun, but I could not detect any temperature difference on the bearing hubs, even after a longish test-drive. Nor was there any looseness on the wheels. Neither with the wheels loaded on the ground, nor with the wheels unloaded up in the air. In both cases, it was only after the audible rumble got very annoying that I could feel a very-slight 'click' on the jacked-up wheel with the failed bearing.
×