attym

running it out? I can see that. good point. I would like to see that light just to know if it works.

Gas gauge is off. Its on E around 250 miles and it's getting 24 MPG. I drove for two days with it below E hoping that light would come on. I chickened out this morning and filled it up. I still had 3.5 gallons left. I'm going to bring a gallon of gas with me when it gets down to 300 miles and see that light!

Thanks! It was really dirty when I got it. I literally had to degrease it to get the black off of it. After a few washes, a coat of wax and a few personal touches, I'm digging it. I'll take 7-10, but I've haven't stayed in a car longer than 2 years. I get antsy and move on...perhaps to a 2000+

Legacy L I got for $1500. 130k, just installed my radio and roof rack and I'm going to drive it into the ground. I might have to do a clutch in the near future. Its a breath of fresh air from commuting in my Explorer by myself.

if its similar to my 96 legacy, this is what i did. To remove the factory deck, you ahve to remove four screws. Two that you can access when you open the cup holders and two that you'll need a small stubby screwdriver when you take out the ashtray or in my 96's case, the storage compartment. That should allow you to work out the trim that covers the factory radio and storage compartmnmet beneth it. I believe the stock radio was held in by six screws. Four on the brackets corners and two in the middle about half way back. (I never got these two back in and if you can't get them in, don't worry about it, its more than stable with just the four) Once you get them all out, you should be able to pull the radio and storage out. disconnect the wires (intenna and power/speaker harness). Once its out, you'll notice four screws holding the radio in place, two on each side. remove those and the radio should come out. Your new radio should fit right in here and bolt up to those four screws. You'll have to remove any trim ring on the front of the radio, if there is one, it shuld just click off with little effort. For the wiring, you'll need a harness (I don't recomend cutting the factory harness and splicing it into the new radio. I've done it, but you leave yourself stuff if you want to put the old radio back in. fort $15, the harness is well worth it) Just match up the color coded wires on the new radio to the harness, plug it into the car and you should be ready to go. This was one of the tightest installs I've done since it bolted right up, it looks like it belongs there. Hopefully this will apply to your 93. This was from memory so I might have missed a few details, but thats the general idea.

I'm sure it's a nice car, but you'd be over paying. I'm surprised they'd let a car sit on the lot for so long.

It didn't seem to move much at all. I returned the cable to basically its original position this morning. The pedal feels easier to push now rather than much closer to the top. If its in neutral (clutch engaged or not engaged), there is a rattle when reved. I also notice a similar rattle when I shift gears or push in the clutch while driving. I'll live with it for the time being, I bought the car thinking I'd have to do a clutch anyways. If I'm going to go in there, I'll do it all.

I'd keep on them and aslo call Subaru of america. The squeeky wheel gets greased.

The fork lever was hard to move if at all by hand.

The bearing always sort of made a "bad cable" sound when i pushed it in. The fork was fine two days ago when i tightened the cable, I'll re-check it to see if its loose now. I'll back the cabel down to where I had it or maybe just mention it to the guy who would be doing my clutch and have him adjust it.

I just tried to figure out my MPG. I was on E and only went 245 miles, I was a little concerned. I only was able to put 10.3 gallons back in. Either my gas gauge is off or they're giving me a 5.6 gallon reserve. I'm tempted to drive until i see the gas light which i've never seen besides my owners manual.

Would the car still drive and shift well? It shifts and drives fine, no slip at all, smooth shifting. Would you recomend loosening up the cable again?

I have a 96 Legacy L 2.2 MT The car shifts fines, but it was maiing a cricket sound when i was driving. The littlest touch to the clutch pedal would stop it. I could just rest my pinky on it and it would stop. I decided to go under the hood and tighten the cable just a few turns. I let off the lock nut and adjusted the other nut maybe 5-10 turns and it stopped, I tightened it all back up and thought i solved the cricket noise... But now when I rev the engine, it has a rattling noise both with the clutch in when out. I think it stops when the clucth is sort of half way, but i could be wrong. It doesn't rattle at idle.I'm hoping its the throw out bearing, I don't know. Should i adjust back the cable so if I have a new clutch put in it won't do the same thing after a few hundred miles. Did adjusting the cable cause the throw out bearing to get worse? does it sound like a throw out bearing? Its a rattle when reved.

I believe its .044 (double check)

I'm looking for a picture of this setup. I'm putting them on a 96 legacy L sedan and am curious to see a picture.