boxerhummfetish

Go to pick and pull or a scrapyard; I would think '93-'95 models would be compatible for that. The scrapyard charges you just a small amount, but you probably want to hire someone off of craigslist or so that has pulled these before. It can take a bit of time, like a pro about an hr to two. I wouldn't attempt myself unless i had to. http://www.picknpull.com/ btw wow what a***holes. the broke the most expensive and difficult window to swap, and you cannot even unlock the door from the rear hatch if they were thinking of breaking in; for that any of the side windows would do.

Wow, thank you very much John. I will look at the starter contacts first. Also, I will check the auto parts store and maybe radio shack and ask if there is some sort of conductive paste (maybe zinc based) for terminals.

I'm driving a '93 Legacy right now. Car has worked pretty well; a few minor issues but seems good. One odd thing did happen to me on a recent 6 hr drive to NYC, coming back midway and during my refueling rest break. Car had been sitting like 10 minutes with key maybe in on position to power my gps map which I was playing with for 10 minutes to figure out the route. I try to start the car, and it doesn't turn over like usual. Lights are on though on the dashboard, just turning the key to start the starter produces no action. Turn off for a while and again try a few times, and eventually it starts. What could cause this weird one time occurance? Once I had a loose battery terminal but in that case the dash lights showed that that was the case--similar to having a dead battery. Not sure what went on this time. My other question... I've noticed that this 1993 subaru is different (from my 1995 imp) in that the ignition will start on the second click, not the first turn of the key. Is this a weird old subaru safety feature or also a defect in the ignition system?

Hey, thanks everybody. I will look into all these possibilities. I did change the ATF fluid before my trip east (one flush only though)--and, like 91Loyale warned, I actually messed up with interchanging the fluids with the front diff, but quickly corrected the mix up. (Sorry 91Loyale for posting in OlderGen; my thought was this old Subie had more in common with the Older Gen drivetrain-wise than New Gen which are now all AWD and not 4WD. ) I think I may try the Gunk additive you suggested, I've had a great experience with their Steering rack additive (fixed everything), and if that doesn't work look at the possibility of something wrong with the CV or U joint.

Okay, I've developed or first noticed some very strange issues in an old 1st Gen Legacy wagon. It's a 1993 Legacy 4WD with Automatic transmission that I bought late spring this year and drove across to the east coast (exciting adventures). Anyways, aside from an incident with more than expected oil consumption (compared to my EJ 1.8 Impreza that burns next to none), I'm just coming up with an issue I'm concerned about. The symptom occurs only sometimes, and is only noticeable at very low idle/walking speeds; it's as if you left on the parking brake on--there is extra resistance force that brakes the car, usually to a halt, from walking speed; you need to tap the throttle where normally idle would move you forward. Then, the other odd thing is, once you're at halt, and you switch it out of gear, say from D to R or P, or from R to P, there is a slight jerk and thud from what might be the transmission; the release of power is noticeable as a jerk which actually moves the car forward by some a few millimeters or slight amount. It's also possible these symptoms occur more frequently when making sharp turns (extreme steering deflections) during parking maneuvres--but maybe I'm imagining this correlation because parking often involves such turns. This is so weird. Does anybody have a clue or guess as to what this may be? TIA

Okay, great, I came across that awesome link by browsing similar threads. That's great, the black connector worked and flashed me a code 32; this was indeed the O2 sensor. So, either the code was never reset (just did a 20+ minute battery disconnect, which should clear them) or I may have some faulty wiring with the new O2 sensor. Anyways, this routine is great to know.

Jerking reminds me of when my MAF when unreliable. So, MAF electronics could be going bad, such that cleaning won't help. I suggest pulling another used one from pick and pull; hopefully a better on. Other possibilities?? crank position sensor? plug wires or plug?

I just recently got this '93 legacy awd wagon. runs well, but recently the CEL light comes on for about 5 or ten minutes, usually (not consistently), and usually after driving for 5 to 10 minutes. It goes off after 10 minutes or so too. I thought it might've been the o2 sensor being really old (prev owner barely passed the smog); so I swapped that for a new one yesterday. But I still noticed they CEL light coming on once today. The previous owner also rep'd the MAF sensor (with a working used one). What else could this be? Also, anyone know what a low end OBD1 reader model is for a subaru?? Thanks!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delta_engine (6 piston engine rather) Just kidding. But I did hear they're coming out with an H4 diesel!

1995 Impreza L, 1.8, 5 speed, 150k miles. I get around 28 combined. 28 to 30 if pure freeway driving (road trips). City driving doesn't usually drag the mileage down too bad (unless I'm in a real hurry or going mental). I usually drive like a grandma, lug the engine on light acceleration ~1600 rpm, coast a lot, think about timing the traffic lights; I'll even often stop the engine on long red lights. I'm thinking on getting bigger tires on my next set (185 75 r14), because I think the fwy miles could be better, and would be improved by keeping the rpm's under 3000, which doesn't happen much in today's typical 70 to 75 mph fwy driving.

I just came across these links which opens the possibility that the mechanic incorrectly though the axle was too short. The compressed length listed by empi seems to be comparable to that which I measured, and the axle indeed seems to stretch a bit (whether a full two inches remains to be seen). This is the std (awd and auto part for the 90s soobs): http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/axle_images/80-5511.html Look up a different soob with this part reference: http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/driveaxles_pg22.html

Wow thanks for the hint. My guess is that this mystery part is an EJ axle. Did the FWD transmission go on the AWD without problems? If so I would guess those axles are the same. My mystery axle is significantly shorter, like by 6 cm (59 cm versus 75 cm). Is this FWD transmission of yours an auto or manual? From the napa parts online parts catalog it seems to tell me that 2WD parts are compatible with AWD for the automatic 2WD, but not for the manual 2WD.

I very unluckily received the wrong axle (too short, length=27.3") for my front CV assembly. It won't fit on my '95 Impreza manual awd and I'm wondering how in the world this mix up could've happened... ugh . I feel horrible having this new FEQ axle uselessy lying around. Where would this shorter axle fit (~27.25 inches)? Are the front axles different for auto trannys or 2wd's? The standard part seems to be 29.5 inches, and I have no idea how they shipped this part instead. (Too late to return though, since I didn't bother to change the CV until over a year after ordering the axle).

I may consider a new sensor soon; I guess with the car being in mid life (11 yrs) and the black tailpipe, it's not a bad time to do that soon. Also, the winter tires I got were about 3% and made the engine rev lower on the freeway. The mileage was about the same as with the smaller tires while the odo/speedo would underestimate the actual mileage by 3%. So, that's close to a 1mpg improvement. Not a bad idea for older imp 5sp's which rev hi at 70mph. My next set of summer tires will be larger. The biggest diff in mpg is whether i take it easy on the fwy or not. Makes a 2mpg diff.

alternator? lights off and a trickle charger could both maybe minimize that from happening. new batt helps too.