itzik93

All u had to do is to dry off the ingition components with compressed air and you'r car should've run like new. I cleaned my engine 2 monthes ago with no misfires problems at all. Itzik

Well, i had some time to do a small fuel economy test after relocating the knock-sensor. On mixed driving i've got 26MPG. I'd says its pretty damn good. Probably on highways it can get more. I'll do some tests in urban driving to see whats the diffrence before and after, especially on heavy traffic and stop&go traffic. Itzik

Update: A friend of mine, from work, done the same relocating on his car, impreza 2003 AWD GX (2.0L), and he confirmed good results about performance (car "pulls" m-u-c-h better). Itzik

Exactly. Because of that i asked if someone has already expirienced this procedure and can tell us more. Itzik

Well, I read this thread few days ago and decided to relocate my knock sensor. My KS has been replaced few monthes ago (the old one was cracked) bcoz he threw CEL while going uphill with the gas pedal on the floor. Anyway, since relocating the KS (as shown in the first post) the car pulls amazingly and it _seems_ to be more economical in fuel consumption. I guess i will finish the "fuel consuption test" in about 1-2 weeks - but I would have like to know if there's anybody who tried this thing and had success with better fuel consumption and performace. 10x Itzik

Before replacing any bulb's or headlight's - check voltage on the bulb's and search for power/current-flow drops (cause of age and sometime bad grounding or a bad bulb's plug). Volage of 12.5/12.8V instead of 14.V on the bulb's plug is not fair acceptable to get the best out of you'r bulb's/headlights. A "good" drop of voltage should be maximum 0.5V (its also a good idea to check the voltage on the fuel pump). Itzik.

The "Power" mode engaged when you press the accelerator pedal quickly. You dont have to floor it or smash it (!), just press is quickly and the power light will stay on till you'll release the pedal. Had the same model and the same car like your - but with an 1.6 engine (EJ16). It was a bullet proff car. bought the car in 1998 when it was 5 y/o from an old nice man (1st hand) that drove the car only 29,500km. Had it 6 years and drove it almost 100,000KM with 1 small problem: Engine temp sensor (check engine light was coming up somtimes - scanner says its the temp sensor. replaced it and the problem solved). Besides that - regular maintenance. Take care of the front CV boots. replace them with original boots (last for many years !). If you drive most of the time "city", replace the transmission fluid every 40,000km or 2 years if you use synthetic fluid. If you use mineral oil - change it more frequently. All the other fluids as the manual says. I've changed every 2 years all the fluids (brake, transmission, differential, radiator). Have fun Itzik

Good morning :-) On "new" subaru's in general (lets say impreza & legacy - all since 1995 and on), where's the location of the ground connection of the engine ECU ? (is it somewhere on the body frame near the passenger ? or is it on the engine ?) I searched on wiring-diagrams but it doesnt describes if its the body gorund or engine ground. Thanks alot, Itzik

Both have white connector. the "old" one has a smaller white connector, the "new" one has a bigger white connector. I had to cut the wires and solder them. Itzik.

It started 4 monthes ago. i was climbing uphill with the gas pedal on the floor for at least 1/2 a minute. It was the first time since i have the car that the "check engine" light was ON during driving. Since that time till this week, it never came back. But last week i drove uphill's with the gas peda on the floor - and it came back AGAIN. This time i pulled the code, and it said 22. check my manual and it seems to be the knock sensor. The car is legacy MY96, automatic, FWD, EJ20 with almost 173K k"m (thats around 105-110K miles). As usuall, i came to this forum to search for information. many of you said that the sensor might be cracked (a common age "problem"). I found (easly) the sensor on the motor and i saw it has only 1 wire. i thought it would be a good idea to start with cleaning the contact between the sensor and the engine - might be dirty of corrosion. As soon as i took out the sensor, i saw 3 cracks in different direction ! A good friend of mine gave me a good knock sensor that came off from another engine, i checked that it have no cracks, and installed it. enjoy the pictures :-) Itzik

Also check fuel pressure and validate that the intake manifold and throttle body are clean without vacum leaks. itzik

As i said before, i already changed the injectors (with injectors i bought from a "wrack-yard"). After everything was set on the car (and the car was starting and driving *great*) i passed them an "on-car" cleaning procedure with BG products - and thats it For now, the car is driving excellent and starting great in all situations. Itzik

Last update: I replaced few days ago the injectors (all 4 of them); problem solved. Next time you think about taking out the injectors for a clean, think twice and clean them on the car. Itzik.

Told you so :-) In my legacy both connectors has been replaced in the past few years. The right side was much before when the previous onwer had the car, the left side was 6 monthes ago (i own the car for more then 2 years). I used aftermarket connector from local parts store, so far so good. You have to cut the old connector and solder the new one. Cut the wires one by one and connect the same side wire from the new connector. after that solder the connections and isolate them. Izik

Had EXACTLY the same thing on my legacy, the problem was a BURNT FUSE that blowed because of short circuit at one of the headlight connectors. I replaced the headlight connector (the one with the 3 pin's inside that connects to the bulb) and replaced the fuse (15A, blue). To locate the exact fuse - pull out the fuse and inspect it visual. do not use a check bulb. The fuse is in the fuses/relays box (color: black) near the engine. Dont forget to update us... Itzik