t-wrx

Thanks!

I'm replacing the front axles on an 85 hatch, and I'm looking for the easiest way to do it. At this point, I have the roll pins driven out and the axle end nuts removed. I know I need to be able to swing the hubs outward so I have enough room to get the axles out and the new ones in. It looks like the easiest thing would be to remove the nut at the bottom of the ball joint at the lower end of the strut, but I'm a little worried about damaging the rubber boot. :-\ Is that the way to go? Ideas about keeping the boot in one piece?

So what's the consensus; if the C2334-L gets replaced, will it bring the dead back to life? CarFreak's digi isn't quite gone yet, so I expect it would get a new lease on life. But it would be great if we could turn the dead bodies into legitimate spares. Has anybody come up with a diagram yet? CF has a couple of manuals; one is likely to show the digi dash wiring. I'll riffle through them if it might do some good.

Oops! double-posted. Please ignore.

Absolutely, this was a terrific effort on the part of everyone who helped out on WCSS8. I had a BLAST! Car Freak makes a good point -- a lot of the people who organized this year's event won't be coming back. Those of us who benefitted from their efforts need to think about what we can do to help next time around. And speaking of thinking, check Zapar's post. He put in a crapload of work to make sure we had a good time, and he feels he got a load of ************ for his efforts. So besides our thanks, he (and everyone else who helped out on this WCSS, and all past WCSSes, and all future WCSSes) deserve our support! That means things like speaking up when people are partying in the quiet area so Zap or another volunteer doesn't have to (thanks, Laura!). It means talking to your friends when you think they might be doing something out of line, so one of the volunteers doesn't have to. You get the idea! So here's how I see it: we're going to need a few people to step forward as organizers so we can have WCSS9. But if we expect to have WCSS10, 11 and 12 (I'd sure like to see them!) we all need to step forward in small ways so we don't burn out everyone who steps forward as a volunteer.

I'm finally getting around to installing a 3-gauge center-panel cluster I got from the Primitive Racing booth at the last WCSS. I'd like to do this without destroying anything, and I don't want to just rip into the dash and try to figure out how to get the existing clock panel out. I'm hoping somebody has been through this already and can give me some suggestions. How do you get the clock panel out? Looks like the A/C ducting is right below, so I guess you have to go in from one side or the other. Glovebox or Instrument cluster? Or do you need to take both out to get to all the fasteners? Or is there some other way?

With a sunroof/moonroof, there is usually an outer seal, kind of a gutter all the way around, then an inner seal. To get to the drip, drip, drip stage, you gotta leak past the outer seal and fill up the gutter before the inner seal will start to leak. Before you start gooping any of the seals, check the gutter. There should be a drain hole to empty the gutter (clever, huh?). The drain hole leads to a tube running down from the roof and probably out thru the floor. The hole or the drain tube is probably plugged, and if you don't unplug it, all you will be able to do is slow down the drip.

I'll put in my 2 cents, since I helped test the alternator on this brat. That should be "goes from 1100 to 900 s-l-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o- " ...well, you get the idea. In fact, I don't think I ever heard it drop. Longer than just the lag to control emissions. That said, I gotta add that it didn't seem at all alarming to me. btw, electrically it was doing the right things. At idle, it was making about 2-3 amps at about 14.7 volts; turned on the accessories and the idle dropped down a good bit, but made about 25 amps at about 13.5 volts. No clue what those alternators should do, but when we asked for power, it stepped up, so I figure it works.