STRANGELUCK65

well, i finally tracked down the diagrams i needed. wish me luck - all i got is strangeluck

i work at a body shop and always have adjust the window hieght when i replace a door.first remove the door panel and then peel back the upper part of the vapor barrier, at the top of both window tracks are the stops.put your window up to the correct height,open and close the door to be sure you have it where you want it. slightly bump the window down using the power window switch, then loosen the stops and push/nudge them down and retighten the stops. open and close the door again. cycle the window up and down a few times, open and close the door again. if you are satisfied with the fit to the weatherseal reinstall door panel. doing this is not hard, just pay attention to what you are doing and don't rush it.

i thought the same thing when i was told. but sure enough it works.

hello *** is this thing on?anybody there

still in need of wiring diagrams

here is a tip from 2 senior master subaru mechanics that i will pass on to you guys.use ford motorcraft additive friction modifier,it costs less than $5.on the back of the bottle has printed "FORD INTERNAL REF. NO. 135454" i have used this myself and it does work.

wet sand spoiler toget rid of the bad paint.be sure next time BASF paint is used.i do paint and bodywork for a living-trust me.if you have any more questions pm me.

i do heavy collision bodywork.the hid units are from broken headlite assemblies.i strip them down to just the igniter pack and bulb socket.from there, they can be retrofitted to almost anything.cut a hole in the back of whatever headlite housing you choose,epoxy bond the bulb socket area from the hid assembly.find a suitable place to mount the igniter pack-and thats about it.KEEP IN MIND you will loose your hi beam.if you have fog lites it shouldn't be a problem.

i've got a box of used hid set ups at work.if you or someone you know is good at creative reengineering, i'll send you a set for a bottle of whiskey to be named latter.just pm me.

yes. i still need both,the other guy didn't send it.now that i know what a "pm"is-how do i access it.please overlook any misspellings,its a curse of being a good mechanic.zzz

whats a pm, and how do i use it.i'm not dumb-just smart in other areas:headbang:

no cutting ,slicing or dicing nessesary. everything bolted right in. i went from a 2.5 dohc w/auto to a 2.0 wrx w/5spd.the only problem i'm having is finding good wiring diagrams.i've done avionics in the past-so i'm not stupid when it comes to chasing sparks.i can do it without diagrams,but it will be a whole lot easier with them.i had enuf foresight to remove the comeplete harness from the wrx.any help in this matter will be apreciated.

a '01 legacy turbo hood will fit,or any hood of the same bodystyle.the only thing that may be diferent is the grille.if you or someone you know is good at bodywork-i have a baja scoop assembly that can be fit to anything.i do bodywork/heavy collision,so i know it can be done.soon i'll be fitting an '04 sti scoop to a '00 rs hood for a '96 sport wagon.bodywork is easy provided you don't overthink it.if you need any advice email me at strangeluck65@aol.com .

all week i fix trainwrecks for the local subaru dealer (mastro subaru-tampa).base your desision on structural demensions.measure from rear fender bolt to forward fender bolt on the opposite side,this is called an x-out. is the damage above the frame rails? is one or both rails bent?if so you could sub out the frame straightening to a bodyshop and finish it yourself.contrary to popular belief,mig welders are simple to use - if i can teach a big tittied blonde girlfriend to use one it aint that hard.if you choose to attemt to fix it and need demensions,let me know.like i said,this is what i do for a living.the way people drive here in tampa-i make a damn good living.