yewman

I didn't see any clip when I had the wheel off yesterday. I'll have to check again. I now know the basic difference between the two shocks listed for the legacy estate AWD. One has a 22mm piston rod, and the other is 25mm, which is easy to check. Mine is 22mm. Thanks for the replies Yewman

The LH rear shock absorber on my 1999 Legacy Estate ( Wagon) needs changing. There seem to be at least two different types listed for my car. 20362A, 20363A, and 20364A. What is the difference? My car has standard suspension. Also, the rear brake flexible hose goes through a bracket welded to the shock. I can't see any hexagons or flats on the metal parts of the hose, so how do you get them off the bracket? Thanks Yewman

Thanks for that, I'll try to get the grille off without wrecking the clips. No one in the UK seems to keep these clips and they all have to be specially ordered . Don't know how the body shops manage. I am amazed at the number of different locking clips invented by subaru for their bodywork and electrics. Still it's a small problem to put up with for a great car. Yewman

Thanks for all the advice. Finally got round to checking the system again. There is no pressure at the charging valves. So refrigerant gone. I have removed a couple of connections, and the o rings so far are good. Before I get it recharged I want to check as much as I can. There is a pipe going around the front of the radiator. Is there a cooler matrix in front of the rad? I couldn't see anything obvious. Regards Yewman

Ok, I've jumped the dryer plug and the compressor clutch engages, like you said. Before I start taking pipes off, and lose the refridgerant, is there anything else to check which might give the same result? There is no wetness inside the valve caps. How do you check where the leak is ? Thanks Yewman

Thanks a lot for the helpful replies. I'll check out the system and feed back the results. Regards, Yewman

The air conditioning has stopped working. Checking engine bay shows compressor clutch not engaging. I can engage clutch by using external live feed from battery. Current fault codes include 32, Oxygen sensor, 24, air control sensor Both of which I have had before, without affecting Air Con, and 12, starter switch/circuit. The engine starts and runs as normal, with no loss of power or surging. Any ideas please? Thanks Yewman

It's a manual transmission

As the speedo can be made to work inside the car, I'm sure you're right-----two problems. I did notice that the abs didn't seem to be very good on icy roads last winter. As I've not had ABS before, I had nothing to compare with..but could be dodgy speed sensor perhaps. Do you know where the one or two speed sensors are located?? Thanks Yewman

The ecu fault codes are showing number 33, the speed sensor. The speedo sometimes doesn't work, but pressing the trip odometer button makes it work again. This problem is well known on the forums, with 1999 Legacy's. My question is will the earthing fault in the speedo cluster which causes the speedo not to work trigger the ECU fault code? Also how many speed sensors are there on a manual transmission.I think the auto has 2. Where are the sensors Thanks Yewman

I did clean out the shavings, re assembled and kept the solenoid position as it was. The engine still runs well, and has just passed the government emissions check which is part of the annual test in the UK. The engine light still comes on sometimes. As you suggest, I will get a can of intake cleaner. Not sure who sells it over here. Thanks Yewman

Hello, i have a 1999 legacy with 2 litre engine. Although the engine runs fine, the warning light comes on sometimes. I checked the codes, and number 24 , the IAC valve comes up. I removed the grey plastic solenoid cover, shown in the photos in this thread.Inside was a small amount of metal shavings sticking to the magnet. I didn't go any further as I didn't want to damage anything, but can you pull the moving part of the solenoid out with the cover/electric coil bit removed? Are there any pics of what the metal rod /armature should look like, as I don't know where the metal shavings came from. I re assembled the valve, and the engine works fine. In the UK, a complete valve costs nearly as much as the car's worth Thanks Yewman

Correct. There is a sensor a few inches behind the dipstick. The two wires lead to a connector which I'd like to check,but I can't get two hands to it without removing the intake box. Will try another day when it's not raining Yewman

Thanks for the info. I'll have a look in the morning when the sun is up

Is there a photo somewhere showing the position of the sensor, or a description of what it looks like? Thanks Yewman

I have a 99 legacy with intermittent speedo failure. Tacho is OK. Engine light comes on when speedo fails and goes off if it starts to work ok. Any idea what colour the speed sensor wires are? On a RH drive is it still on the Right side of transmission Is this the "earth"fix or something else Thanks Yewman

I don't need to replace the latch or rod. I need to remove the latch and lock assembly, so I can fit a new return spring to the latch. It is not possible to do it when it's on the car. Without the spring, it messes up the electric locking. As I said, no parts are available for the latch, so I will have to find a spring somewhere. Even with the 3 bolts which secure the latch taken out, you can't get the latch out of the door without removing the rod from the top. Sorry if my explanation is not clear, it's easy to see when you look at it but not to write about !! Yewman

I have a 1999 Legacy estate (wagon). I need to remove the latch /lock assembly at the bottom of the tailgate. To do this you need to remove the rod which goes from the lock up to the handle(above the numberplate) This rod is rivetted on at the lower end, and screwed into a sort of ball joint at the top end.So it has to come off at the top. I have tried gently pressing the pin at the top, and squeezing the nylon bush the pin runs in.No good. My subaru dealer says that both the lock and handle are only available as complete assemblies, so I don't want to start getting all rough and sweaty with it. Can you tech men tell me how to release this rod please. Yewman.

I've just done setright's test. Connect black wires and green wires,and the engine light has steady on and off flash, indicating fault cleared. Well done everyone! On the basis that it may come back, It would be interesting to know what info is in the manual. Msge to Richard it,s Cockney ryming slang titfor tat= hat apples and pears= stairs Regards Yewman

Thanks for that advice, I'll try it out as soon as I can. Is there any way of checking the correct function of the sensor with a meter? Presumably it gives a variable resistance in different air flows. My sensor has 4 wires attached. Regards Yewman

This is just an interim report.I found the air flow sensor, bolted on the engine side of the air filter. The connectors looked bright and clean, so I worked the plug in and out of the socket to ensure good contact. Also removed the airpipe with sensor attached. the two filaments hanging down in the airflow looked sound, although I have never looked before! Initially the problem was the same, but has now disappeared. Two short trips and still OK. Was working today but tomorrow I will connect the wires under the dash and see if I get a code. Message to Manarius, uk subarus may be a different spec , but they are expensive compared to other makes, and the prices for genuine parts are in wonderland, as are the dealer labour rates. If I need to replace the airflow sensor, I will probably have to sell my house! See you tomorrow, yewman

The car has full service history, looks like only routine work on the engine,cam belts and such. Everything looks original in the engine bay. You can tell if wrong bits have been fitted as the installation never looks as neat as a new one . Is it possible UK spec is different? Also where is the pcv valve mentioned in previous posts? Meantime I,ll check the airflow valve. Regards Yewman

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I'll answer the questions together. The car is a 1999 GL estate, 2 litre non-turbo with 130,000 miles on the clock. The plugs, leads and filters are all good. I presume I can't check for stored codes or reset the ECU without going to the dealer. What and where is the PCV valve? It sounds as if the knock sensor is gone, but wouldn't the engine knock under power? I,ll try Setright's idea if I can find the right leads.Hope I don,t cook anything by mistake. Thanks Yewman..

My legacy 2 litre has just started to be really sluggish between 1750 and 2400 rpm, after which it goes like a train. It,s like there was a booster switch, as soon as the needle reaches 2400, off it goes. The engine is smooth even when sluggish. No misfires or anything obvious. Performance above 2400 is superb. Any ideas guys? Yewman