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see subject line My suggestion is to list the 1) year 2) engine type 3) fuel system employed Sure sounds like a bad IAC but it could be EGR related also. Possibly knackered vacuum fitting or even .... The wobble could be a broken belt in a tyre, or a poorly balanced tyre (lost a wheel weight possibly) tryin' ta help but the Great Carnac I'm not (whew that's showin my age, "The answer is....")

Red, there have been quite a few posts relating to the flapper door ignition sytem and problems there in. The intermitant strobe flash of the timing light could be a sign the ingitor in the disty is going or the knock control unit is supressing the spark voltage. What does the spark off the coil wire when cranking look like? Have you checked the connections on the ends of the fusible links lately? Tha alternater output goes through the link closest to the strut tower, I say this in reference to the remark about the headlights. If we are loosing some charging juice possibly the coil primeray is not seeing the voltage it needs. Your coil does not have the ignition amplifier on it's bracket so it does not need to be earthed. This is not ruling out a faulty ground connection somewhere. On hot wire cars the dash ground is under the intake manifold bolt just behind the upper rad hose connection, another important ground point is the screw by the battery in the rad. core support. These intermittant problems can certianly be buggers to track down.

Travis, the wire comes from the wiring on the engine, not the rad. Look up on the engine front by the goose neck, it has a clip beside the oil dip stick. Mine recently came out of the clip and got caught in the crank pully/fan belt. The remains were found up near the goose neck. This is a single wire by the way, as you ask for oil pressure sending wires. It is in a black sheath. Hope this helps, if you need a pict, please ask

Dateline: 12/06/03 Place: Laurel Highlands, PA White chit total: 14" Which is what? Why man invented Subarus and snow throwers

the yellow spark tells me you ig amp may be toast. This devise is located on the coil bracket under the coil. It relys on the bracket being grounded as it is only a power transistor. They do not go bad very often so a boneyard coil bracket will fix it,if it is indeed the problem.

Tony if you are low on coolant it will also show these signs

Red, sure sounds now like it is MAF related. If the vane (i.e. flapper door) is hanging (not moving open/closed in concert with the air flow)- it will do what you say. Can you borrow one? Atleast take it off and feel it swing open and closed. Many people have been known to mess with the return spring in these to "fattin' " the mixture. Maybe the return spring is sprung. Hope this helps

GB, the juice is now your problem, before you kind of mis lead in the fact the vent system was not switching either. You installed a new stereo so you must know your way around a multimeter. Here is a diagram of the ac circuit Hope it helps Start trouble shooting at the plug for the blower (under the glove box) sounds like you may have inadvertantly disconnected the blower switch during the instal. Some cars also had an inline fuse for blower control. You also need a new resistor block to fix the speed problem.

Thanks Tex, was begining to think I had lost what little part of my mind I have left. And thanks for the backup on the spring's rate being important. Let me ask this somewhat foolish question, with the MBC installed backward (and yes it goes in the line to the waste gate control diaphragm) If the check ball was sealing properly, my feeble mind says the wastegate would see no pressure and therefore you would be running with the turbo blowing all it could. This kind of error could lead easily to a blown head gasket. The check ball must be leaking by at its seat. My comment about the most important part. Where do you have the boost gage fitted and is it a vac/boost gage or ?? Also doesn't the website says the small "breather hole" is only an issue at around 20 psi. Think me eyes is goin to!

GB, the fact that none of the positions work (bilevel defrost ect) is not from a bad relay. You must have disconnected the vacuum feed to the control panel. When the controls are in the off position the blower fan will not run. Is the vacuum reservoir for the dash control, or vac can, connected properly. The two relays you ask about are for the AC system, one for the AC compressor the other for the rad fan. Hope this helps

cams http://www.deltacam.com/ ask Will hotter ignition w/a bit wider plug gap

Sorry Red, I know we must have talked by the reference. I can't remember what year/fuel system you have. IF it is a hot wire MAF system, have you swapped ignition amplifiers? Have you any where to get another MAF unit, this unit sounds highly suspect after all you have outlined. That baby should fly

Nomad, this time of year it is pretty important that the ECU knows the engine is cold. Sounds like the FI coolant thermosensor is knackered. On the goose neck (upper rad hose fitting) there are two coolant sensors, one for the dash gauge and one for the FI system. The one you are concerned with has a wired "pigtail" the other is a straight spade connection. You could try cleaning it's connector, but testing it is better. I have a chart of the resistance values from an 89 FSM. Email me if you need them. Hope this helps

Just for comparision, 87 hot wire 5 speed I have my distributor ignition timing adjustable from the dash and run mid grade, tweak as nes. 26 MPG Run about 25 BTDC as a norm. Have tried high test- no change that would warrent the expense. 14 PSI w/ B.cut, IC, very open in and out "takes" + other mods, & still get creamed by ricers. Me thinks a) I have some hi tech rockets runnin' around in Civic/Integra/Eclipse bodies you guys that say you waste them all the time, have some "sticker specials" you are running against.

Chris, Very good choice on the lamps. I used some cheap versions and they only lasted a week or so. Did you go with the Silver Stars? I have been looking at the XtraVision 9004XV Glad you checked all the relays, BTW they can be interchanged as a test for a bad unit. Since you have savoy. Here is a wiring diagram showing the "ground" you seek. Look left app. center on the diagram. This ground is by the driverside corner above the headlamp. Phillips head screw has several grounds under it. Prone to corroding, I replaced mine with a 6 mm x 10mm bolt. As I mentioned, this gound and it's connection to the lamps is controlled by the switch, very possibly the switch is the culprit. Hope this helps, if you need wire colors for testing the switch at the connector under the steering col. please ask.

Guys, I am perplexed as to why no overboost control has been expierenced. I can't believe the boost gauge is that badly calibrated. I am questioning this "run out of breath" Here are some thoughts, If it is indeed running out of breath, it could mean the air flow volume through the MAF may not be high enough for the signal voltage to the ECU to increase to the level where it will start the timer. Therefore this timer, which would cause the control when it times out, is not being initiated. Now why is it running out of breath, a) could a restricted air filter be causing it? Could one of the exhaust components be partially plugged (my second cat had broken into chuncks and was obstructing flow) c) cams are of the newer style so hey are not in the equation. As I said my wagon will pull to 7 k+ and even there is showing no sign of running out of steam, I just don't trust running the engine at this elevated RPM for long periods. Hey Tex I need some back up here, am I the only turbo owner with an over boost control programed in their ECU?? I have read where the Euro cars has it programed at a higher MAF signal level but this does fit either

romcat, this forum has a very good search function In the box at the bottom of the forum page type "Weber 32/36" Some very good post, threads I believe you will go DGEV and not look back (the EV is for Electric Valve as in choke) all explained in the posts Good luck and welcome aboard

On my 86 Brat "Snow Worries",I cut the factory "J" pipes off and added two "seat of pants" to make the "X". This allows the "X" to be placed at the point in the cross member where the factory pipe was. Pretty quiet as it exits the rear, very nice non "buzz bomb"rumble. Material - 2" Aluminized exhaust pipe Has Weber DGEV32/36, and has been known to get out of it's own way. Both low end torque and high end HP increased as well as the MPG. Kinda of a "win-win-win" if you like. I second Tom -nice "mud up" Scott

I downloaded the parts manual from the recent posting by Josh. It is only for 1982. It only lists one cam for all EA81s but Emily knows her stuffing so I would not doubt her. But I did find this little ditty on early EA81 valves, that I don't believe I've read here before. Sorry if it's a reprint

gorgeous, that is a calender queen if I ever saw one Goes to show they DO exist in PA Where did it grow up though?

Russ has a good point (as Tony did) but you say the CEL is on and off Why not ask the ECU what it thinks the problem is? Here is a link to the instructions and a chart http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ If you can find time to do this please let us know what you find

Peter your welcome, I am glad we all could help, it was indeed a team effort

Well Donald it is not quite as simple as vols (what are they, small rodents?) and dists If you follow this link http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4322&highlight=fuel+pump You will see, we all can learn something from doing some searching and reading. The seatbelts of all things??

Soobme, just so you are not confused too bad, I think Donald mis read your question. He is refering to the knock control unit itself, not the the knock control sensor you ask for.

Soob, Tony is correctly pointing you to the FI thermosensor which is in the general location of the KS Hope this helps find it. This is a hot wire MAF manifold but yours is similiar.