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Jim, your statement "no 4wd hi or even the light on the dash " Is a bit confusing as you also say"the 4wd works good" Does the car move in 4wd high range? If you are asking where the switch for the dashboard indicator that tells you you are in "4WD HI" is, you will find it under the console behind the 4wd lever.

RU4x , looks like Donald is a bit confused as to which post he is answering. Yes to your question but larger than 8mm. Tom has used American standard size also,as Donald said

Well Donald missed a few crucial items. The spider intake (standard on the mid 87 XT and onward) is wired for a hot wire Mass Air Flow sensor. The 86 XT in question will have from the factory a vane style MAF. This modification would require the coolant sensor and more importantly the throttle position switch/sensor swapped over. There is also no provision on the spider intake for the EGR fitting. Some form of blocking plate must be fabricated. The wiring harness connectors will also be different. Plumbing the fuel in and the fuel return lines could be accomplished as the fuel pressure regulator is incorporated in the fuel line system. As for MF's statement "try an xt spider intake, it will let you use ej motor stuff" we will have to let him go into detail here, as the heads and spark system are different. You can use a different turbo unit, flanges for the crossover and downpipe will need changed and the turbo outlet to your intercooler will need adjusted. Twin blowers? The master cyl. and distrib. and steering may make that a bit of a challenge. If you do a search on turbocharges in this forum you will find links to creating a hybrid Tcharger. From reading the mods you have done, you seem to have a very good handle on how to twist a wrench, these modifications are very doable. As for your thermostat question, the 180 deg stat is a common swap, but for the winter months the factory Tstat (88 deg C commonly called 190 deg F) gives the best heat. A close check of the radiator fins is advisable. With a 180 deg F thermostat the gauge should show approx 1/4 scale. Delta Cams sells some nice stuff, WJM just put a set in his EA82T here is their website http://www.deltacam.com/ The 3AT transmission you are running is not known for it's efficiency. These have been known to loose the seal between the tranny and the diff, this allows the fluids to intermix. A swap to a manual is a desirable option. The RX full time 4wd 5speed (10 speed as it's hi/low is shiftable at any speed) is the cat's meow or mutts nutz as I say. Hope this helps.

Sorry to say that Donald (aka M.F.) is incorrect. He is thinking of an EA81 car or one without AC. The coolant thermo switch in these cars, does not depend on a radiator ground. As seen below the thermoswitch is a two wire affair, not a single pin as on the EA81 switches. It is possible the thermo switch is faulty (pull it's connector and jumper the contacts as a test) The diagram shows the fan relay. I have the detailed schematic if you need it. ref: FSM XT Hope this helps

Glen you are absolutly correct, the bolt and nut GD speaks of, does the "clamping" that eliminates all slop in the connection

Hey Arche, I have never heard of "the little 4x engage motor " please enlighten me as to it's location. The systems I have are controlled by a push/pull vacuum servo. The two control solenoid valves are located beside the drives side hood hinge. The wires under the spare tire are for the indicator switch only. I just wrote a trouble shooting article for the USRM. It is possible one of the wires from the shifter under the console have shorted to ground. Easy to check if you start at the two vacuum solenoids and their wiring. See the USRM for details, if it has not been added yet feel free to email me. Hope this helps.

Sorry Ed, been to busy with my newest winter ride "Gramps" . I have not made the time to fool with her. Do you have a suitable pump yet?

I believe Donald missed a word. He says'the 5spd never came with the turbo" What he should have said is it never came with a dual range 5 speed, except in the RX which was really a 10 speed as it can be shifted high to low range at any speed. But the low is not as low as it is in a dual range, only about a half gear, this designed more for rallying than for off road

Glen the slot is shown in the USRM write up but maybe this "cheesy" drawing will show what it is. A bandsaw or hacksaw or sawzall will do a fine job, I made mine about 5mm wide. Make sure it goes back to the upright section of the shifter. Hope this helps

You may want to use the term Scapwagon orsuch, therefore avoiding copywrite infringement. As for the relays. If you want to know what they all are for, simple, get a FSM. For each system that has a relay, it lists the color code for the wires . (I am surprized there are only 5, GL-10s have many more) The relays are all the same, they can be interchanged to prove one is toast. Good luck let's hope it is just a bad lamp

this topic has been brought up many many times. Please try using the "search" feature You will see if you take the time to do so this problem is the result of a bad radiator - the problem will not be fixed by flushing. So many guys have tried this and wasted their time and money on fast fix "flushes". Most of the problem lies in delaminated cooling fins on the outside, no flush will fix this. There will be references to places and prices for a rad. This is a very common topic. Hope this helps - as a Suby engine is a terrible thing to waste

Stacy, the A.Zone is incorrect on the fuel pump and head lamp relay part. They are the same "style" and part number but this statement is not correct "accorrding to the Zone's discription it not only controls the headlamp, but the fuel pump as well. " The wiring diagram above must not make sense to you, this is undestandable as the head lamp system is complex. I'll ask again - does the dash indicator illuminate in the high beam position? If so-- My bet now is you may have a bad lamp in the one high beam circuit, try swapping lamps. Yes, I know they are new but this does not mean one was defective or fried prematurly.

Stacy, here is a wiring diagram for starters. Check the fusible link for corrosion on it's female male contacts If you study this diagram you will see the head lamps are controlled by two relays, one for the right and one for the left head lamp. Since you have problems in both it points to the feed for the relays (the fusible link), now for the high beam problem does the dash indicator light? This whole mess could be a switch problem

Galen, your email said nothing about not starting after it dies. Tuff troubleshooting with half the info - homework needed When you have the car in a no start situation pop the hood and use a helper or a remote start switch and check the spark with the coil wire, it should be blue white and atleast a half inch long. This will atleast be a start as to what is giving you problems. Coil or spark generating circuits or fuel delivery

Dear Mr. Flysuby, I see you are new to the board, please take this in the jest it is mentioned. We can fix problems but we can NOT read minds. The type and year of the auto in question may help. My guess 1954 Packard

Will, you sound convinced it is a fuel starvation causing this. I will then have to assume you have an air fuel ratio meter connected and are seeing it go full lean when this occures. If not how do you know it is fuel starved? A spark related problem could show the same symptoms- no??

GD is spot on about the problem, he is also correct about the power tools ect. To remove and affect the repair of said shifter - one must work above and below. Remove the shifter console cover. The cointray spacer behind the the shifter console and infront of the E brake housing is a snap fit. It exposes the two phillips head screws for rear of the shifter console. The metal retaining ring is next then the rubber boot gets lifted. Fighting your way around the four wheel drive shift lever can be eased by removing the lever) One 6mm (10 mm head size) bolt holds the shifter. Now down under: The pin GD speaks of, must be driven out. Note: this pin is a two piece affair you must get the inner and out pieces out. The nuetral spring is an EZ removal but study it's mounting points. The "barrel" must now be slotted back to the upright section The bolt used to "clamp" the barrel back down is a 8mm (12 mm head size) The use of this size bolt precludes the drilling of said parts. If you want the mutts nutz, a short shifter can be incorporated at this time (welding required, email for details) Hope this helps

Dave, on the very front of the throttle body is a "can" shaped electrical devise that sits horizontal. This, for future reference is the IAC valve (Idle Air Control valve). Look on the passenger side of the throttle body just behind the can. In a recess sits a screw that also runs horizontal. This is the idle control. The way the idle is controlled on fuel injected cars (turbos also) is to allow a small controlled vacuum leak. Not by adjusting how far the throttle plate is open as is the case on a carbed car. This is mentioned for the sole reason that turning the screw anticlockwise raises the amount of the vacuum leak and thus increases the idle. (On a carbed car turning the idle speed adj screw this way lowers the idle) Hope this helps, as you are correct- during the winter months, a slightly higher idle speed helps offset the battery drain caused by the heater blower, headlights and wipers all being used simultaniously at some times. Note: the IAC valve controls the idle speed during warm up, but can affect the idle at all times if the internal shuttle sticks.

Blaster the line should not "T" into the MAF to turbo pipe. This is where the vacuum is being bled off. Try simply plugging the line going to the MAF pipe. See that does it. I have an 89 EA82T if you want, email me I'll shoot some picts of that area. Note: There are several lines that connect to the MAF pipe, these are "breathers" for other devises, the waste gate duty solenoid you mention, being one of them.

T-bone, I think as per the instructions the "read memory" connectors are black in color http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ If the coolant temp sensor has corroded connections, as is most often the problem, the ECU will not light the light nor store a code as their is still resistance on the input. I believe the ECU would have to see an open (infinte resistance) or a dead short (0 resistance) before tripping the CEL.

. . Mac, nice find, got luv those two nutz Here is the ref. if anyone is interested taken from Mac's link Dear Tom and Ray: I have a 1986 Subaru GL station wagon with 135,000 miles. There is not a dealer around and local mechanics can't answer this question: After about 15 minutes of operation, the ECS light comes on. I assume this indicates a scheduled adjustment or part replacement. The car runs fine, but the light drives me nuts. Can you help? Paul Ray: ECS...let's see. I think that means "Engine to Crap-out Soon," Paul. Tom: Actually, ECS is Subaru's "Check Engine" light. It means the car's computer has stored a trouble code. Ray: Underneath the dashboard, right above your knees is the computer. If you remove the plastic panel and turn the key on, you'll see the light on the computer flashing the code. For instance, you may see three long flashes followed by four short flashes, which would be code 34. Then you can call a Subaru dealer and ask them what that code is for. Tom: And they'll probably tell you it's the EGR solenoid, which is what it is on 98.576% of all Subarus we work on. Ray: You can confirm this diagnosis by asking the dealer is he has any EGR solenoids in stock. And when he tells you he has 800 of them, you'll know its a common problem. I do not think it is entirely accurate. I believe the "read memory" connectors may need connected as out lined in the instructions, & the percentage may be a bit high as purge valve solenoids are the same part and therefore fail also

Well put Shawn, I thought about this first, reason I said nothing was because if he had a double regulator setup I do not think it would have worked at all. He quotes it works sometimes. Am I mistaken that his external VR also controls his fuel pump on this model? Shawn you are by far and away a much wiser maven on these cars, please disregard any flatous blather on my part if deemed so.

ah young grasshopper, one must be cautious of letting the smoke out and a quick visual of the fusible links seldom results in any glory as the problem lies deep within. Your fault is iintermittent, be sure the bad juju is in presence when you have the alt tested. But this, we are sure you are aware. This message brought to you by Miss 'Trisity and her loyale followers

dj the light is on a timer circuit it will go out and store the code, it does this in case there are multiple faults or it could be triggered by an intermitant fault or you could just check the ECU for what code it is storing and fix the problem? or use avgas and lay the cat to waste if it contains Pb or use the Click and Clack method of extinguishing the light - black electrical tape!! nuff "or" ing? need a code chart and instructions?? try here http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Hope this helps

an EZ fix for the covers is leave them off many people have with no consequense or Zip ties work well or longer 6mm bolts and nuts congrats on the troubleshoot