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Jules, a search will turn up many links on this very common problem. A gentleman named Cameron has a very detailed and extensive article on cleaning and servicing the lifters. But Since this was a recent build from the crank up did you verify, clean, and instal the lifter gallery oil pressure relief valve under the cam lube tube banjo connection?? And the 0 ring in the head gasket for the oil passage to cam case - did you "glue" it in place with some grease? They are known to shift out of place and block oil flow to the above mentioned gallery.

Took my 86 Brat for a spin today, needed heat for the first time. Owe the smell of hot antifreeze waiffed through the cockpit Heater core must have gone south while I stayed north. Now we all know replacing it is a PITA or we can use the McBrat hack and whack the air box trick but my hair brained idea is going to be tried first I have a positive displacemnet gear pump, a hot plate and some spare heater hose. We also all know that the use of Barr's stop leak and other rad "miricles in a can" will lead to plugged rad passages, BUT If I mix the "miricle" chemical in a pot on the hot plate then pump it through the heater core only I stand a chance of sealing the leak, I will throttle the output hose to create some (5 psi or so) pressure in the core and force the fix into the leak. I am looking for recco's on the miricle I use, Barr's, Alumiseal, others? I know I can remove and inline connect the heater hoses thus bypassing the core, then light the passenger chair on fire for heating the cabin, but I'd rather NOT Thanks in advance for any comments or suggs

J, the rotation of the spider is going to cause an interesting upper rad hose config (will be pointing at the distributor) The manifold is a two part affair, you may beable to leave the bottom and just rotate the top. Since you have choosen to put the turbo up front if you move the battery to the rear smugglers trunk (Trogdor copywrite) you may have room for twins. Getting another Turbonetics may be a problem, I believe you have some lesser units you could use. Twins are one of those hair brained ideas that just look sophat. One bank of two cyl per turbo may prove retarded though. Time to look into a wideband 02 setup, group buy on the new gen board right now will save a couple bucks. Heat is an enemy you will be fighting with this proj. Big scoop and hood vents?? I'm sure you know of a good rad to use. The IC is going to share this area, may want to think about the WRC "V" setup Other adds - underdrive lightweight harmonic dampner, H20 injection, high boost aux. injectors, NOx, scatter shield (diaper) Bythesea short shifter setup, reinforced motor/tranny/dogbone mounts Good luck - if anybody can jank this off - it B U

TJ, there should be no sounds if all the air is out of the core The gurgle is a sign of some still trapped. May be time for the power flush again, sorry. as for Am I missing something? I sure can't think of anything except the above Can this unit be taken apart? It's a real PITA to get the HIVAC out Could something be broken inside? I guess the blend door could be broken, but you say you can hear it move and close. Try running in AC MAX after unplugging the AC compressor clutch - atleast the outside air will not be entering.

TJ, did the gruggling sound stop? If not you may have had the wrong hose disconnected. On the blend door, this is a swinging gate affair that directs the air either through the heater core or around it. Best thing I can tell you to do is get on your knees, say a small prayer j/k Look up under the dash at the HIVAC unit and move the hot/cold lever. This is one part of the ventilation system that is manual not vacuum controled. The hot/cold lever is attached to a cable which in turn is attached to the blend door bell crank. Moving the lever should result in the door moving, sounds like possibly the cable loop has jumped off the door accuator, ie bell crank.

Chris, did you plug the "read memory" connectors together before watching the 02 monitor for a code output? Have you seen this site? http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Your connectors will be by under the hood by the drives side hood hinge, the color may be white or brown, but not green. Green ones need plugged together for setting the ignition timing Haynes should stick to making underware IMHO

TJ If you do not have heat now, it's time to look towards the "blend door" adjustment on the HIVAC unit

This is a state by state DMV question In PA it used to be ten (10) years old and out of production made it eligible for "Classic" plates and title - one time fee to have the title changed and plates issued. Twenty five (25) years - eligible for antique -same criteria No inspection required UNLESS you want to drive it after dark. The inspection was for DOT approved headlamps. Any tag service should have the forms. Both plates have mileage and use situlations, BTW. Hope this helps

I do not know where you are getting your line numbers from? Please reread my original post for the answer to your last question. You said "I have vac. to the supply line that runs through the firewall" So I do not understand this last question, good luck, Skipout

Most shops will perform a coolant system leak down test test for only a few sheckles. If it show it is leaking down, pull the plugs and crank it If H20 spues out a Cyl -> headgasket if H20 comes out the exhaust -> the head is cracked hope this helps

TJ hope you catch this before starting the project. If you do not get pressure out of the hose you have disconnected please try the other hose. I have been informed that there were some changes made to the newer models, my experience is with earlier ones. Sorry for the confusion.

DIS, let me say I agree in a racing app, more fuel can help for the reason any boosted car needs more fuel when on boost. The surplus fuel, when it evaporates in the cyl combustion chamber, absorbs heat and thus cools the chamber. This is the reasoning behind the ECU going to it's full rich map and ignoring the 02 sensor output when it believes the car is in a positive intake manifold state. What I do not agree with is your statement that the injectors are plumbed in series, they are in parallel. Study the injector rail system you will see "T"s above the injectors and a 'T" where the main fuel output from the fuel pump (via the fuel filter) is brought in. The regulator is on the output side and dumps pressure back into the return line. Please if you do not believe me connect a pressure gauge to the small flex line above the injectors. Also please verify my statement by looking at a fuel rail close up, as I just did. I am not surprized #3 is melting it's piston but not for the reason stated. Although more fuel may help. Why not just put a bigger injector (more cc per percent duty cycle) in the number three location? I believe the reason #3 has problems is assoiated with a) it's proximity to the turbo unit (ambiant and radiated heat) and the coolant that is dumped from the turbo into the H20 jacket at this location. Both of these factors increase the temperature of the entire cylinder head in this location and as a result we see more head cracks in the area. I encourage your comments as my signature states, the more I learn.......

Assuming you have an American not Canadian model as per the FSM connection 1 goes to the servo labled as "B" sits at app. a 45 degree angle on the side of the hivac unit (windscreen heat) connection 2 goes to the servo marked as "A" sits horizontal on the side of the unit (dash/floor vents) connection 3 goes to the servo marked as "D" and is on top of the unit. (fresh air /recir) hope this helps You say "servos work" I will assume you applied vacuum via a Mighty Vac or similar to establish this fact.

Just some empirical observations please. Please post me a print out of a wide band 02 setup showing a need for more enrichment of the mixture when blowing say 14 psi. I would also settle for some certified G-TECH numbers showing an increase in HP or reduction of 0-60 times. The stock fuel system on an EA82T is overengineered as are most systems on a Subaru. The mixture stays very "fat" up to the limits of the factory IHI unit. If you replace it with one having a bigger A/R then maybe. BUT as I said, show me the need. Now in a racing application you may need it as the engine is in need of all the cooling it can get, but for us street rodders - ah?? I believe this increase in fuel will not yield higher HP or torque, just more sheckles spent at the pump and for fouled spark plugs. I ran an 0-scope connected to an injector signal. Our ECUs are not state of the art by any means and only vary the pulse width according to a limitied number of preprogramed "maps". When the 02 sensor "flips" to rich, the ECU shortens the duty cycle of the injector, in turn the mixture goes (flips) lean, this "tick tock" of the mixture is how the ECU controls the ratio adding more fuel per degree of pulse width duration may or may not increase this tick tock timing. I'm sorry empirical studies please as verbage is not conclusive evidence. I have been running up to 15 psi for about a 5000 miles now. I have the elementry air fuel metering using the factory 02 sensor (a poor gauge of the true mixture I know) and when on boost it has always been full rich. It has never gone anywhere near stoik.

Dave one thing not mentioned yet is the waste gate. This is the factory boost pressure control devise. If over the years the heat has caused a the internal spring to weaken, or the control rod is loose, the waste gate could be opening prematurly allowing the exhaust gas to bypass the turbo turbine. This unit is mounted on the turbo housing and has a diaphragm similar to a distributor advance diaphargm. It will have a rubber hose connected. Check the rod for integrity and then pull and plug the rubber hose. A VERY SHORT test drive will confirm this to be the problem or not. NOTE you will be running with no boost pressure control -- keep your eye glued to the boost gauge do NOT go over 10 PSI for any extended period. A head is a terrible thing to waste.

Submech, the dash ventilation system is controlled via vacuum servos. These are selected with the control push buttons Under the hood behind the pass side strut tower is a white plastic cannister. This is the vacuum reservoir. It has a check valve incorporated into it. Find out if it is indeed is storing vacuum (broken/disconneted line to it?) Then follow the line from it to the dash control panel. Sounds like somewhere you are loosing the vacuum to control the system. If you have already ascertained there is vacuum present at the control panel please post this fact. Hope this helps.

T.J. sure sounds like an embolism to me. The core locks an air pocket in itself as it sits a bit higher than all other coolant system components. The "burping" I have used involves removing the output hose from the core. This is the hose on the left as you face the firewall, it is NOT the hose connected to the pipe running under the intake manifold. This pipe comes from the H20 pump and is the input to the core. Temporarilly plug the place where the hose connects to the block. Place the open hose end in a jar or catch can and start the engine. When a staedy stream of coolant comes out, thumb plug the hose and reconnect it quickly to the proper fitting. Messy but has never failed to release a trapped air pocket. Note on EA82 cars there is NO coolant flow control valve, as there IS on EA81's, all temp control is done via a "blend door" in the ventilation system. The gurggling sound is the tip off to an embolism. Hope this helps

Rob, I own the same car to a "T" and have a FSM for it. Lets start by finding out if it's a fuel or spark or valve timing issue Lift the intake plenum (cast Al piece over throttle body that has "Subaru Turbo" cast in it) Pour a small quantity of gas down the throat, replace plenum and see if it starts If not the ig amp may be bad and the spark is not strong enough Should be a strong blue white and jump a 1/2" off the coil wire. Next I would check it's compression to check valve timing. Does the front of the engine look like it was apart recently? Maybe the pass side belt was installed incorrectly. Hope this helps feel free to email me if you like BTW the fuel pressure is only ~ 35 PSI - regulated

Ah I think this is a type-0 but Rich says "The yard that has the XT6 Turbo 4wd " I would like to see pictures of this go - mobile??

I'm sorry 78TurboBrat, your excellent description is for the wrong style mass air flow sensor, we were discussing the hot wire not the vane style. But your comment on the the no need for fuel enrichment untill you get to 16 PSI is on the mark as far as my empirical observations go. Subaru, as they often do, over engineered the fuel delivery system, mine runs super rich - up to 15 PSI (where I have my boost level set)

Mitch, I run a Starion IC and it does a fine job (I have temp probes in the aircleaner and in the throttle body above the butterfly) It does drop about 1~1.5 lbs of boost across it (have a boost gauge and have tee'd it in on both sides). As for it against say a WRX or a Saab or a T bird that would be a tuff comparision. Mine sits in the spare tire area and has a boost controled fan and is hood sccop fed. Pictures are already posted of my set up. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4368&highlight=turbo+mods There is not much space between the rad and the waterpump and with a twin row rad it would not fit, plus the hot air from the rad would be bad for the IC's thermal coefficient. In front of the rad is a better choice but the plumbing may prove to present a bit of a problem, nothing you couldn't overcome I'm sure

Well on GLs the first AC switch detent switches the air output to the dash vents only. It does not control the outside air feed to the system. This remains the same as it is in the "Heat" or "BiLevel" position

Tom, the second detent or all the way in position is called the AC MAX position on GLs. On most other cars this is called the "Recirculate" position. It does not (on all my cars any way) control fan speed it mearly closes the outside air vent for the ventilation system. As a result the cabin air is "recirculated" and is suppose to provide maximum cooling. The AC "Economy" position you speak of is not found on my 87 through 89 GL series cars, maybe the newer "Loyales" are different? The microswitch I spoke of controls the operation of the AC compressor and it's systems. You could check this on your car by observing the movement of the control rod and the operation of the micro switch. Hope this helps

your welcome sir, hope it helps give you miles of smiles in your Subydoo

Jimkup, I have never heard of one holding the valve open, but what if it will not let the intake open at all, this may cause the cylinder to not fill properly on the intake stroke - very far fetched You could leave the cam cover off and watch the valve/cam follower. A burnt valve is a possibility but not heard of often. Maybe you have the common crack between the valves and it has progessed to loosen a valve seat If you question this crack and it's commoness please do a search (small box lower corner of main page) for "heads" The oil pressure relieve valve in the lifter gallery may want cleaning also