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well, I am not to say what for the entire company I think Keck's Estate may be a Sat night affair I have to pick up my wagon Friday night just to get some miles on her before the 350 mi. ride home, if ya catch my drift??

no cabins left guys. any other suggs? Campsites will be available. Circle the wagons boyz, injuns and devils out dar. Do the campsites where we are going have 'trisity? Like for lights or a small heater? Are Trog, Moosens and I the only brave (foolish?) ones thus far? Hey Keck, how far away is your estate?

did a spin of the chuck-0-luck wheel (i.e. checked the weather) for the area http://www.weather.com/outlook/driving/local/USNJ0041?x=14&lswe=atison%2C+nj&lswa=WeatherLocalDriving&GO=GO&whatprefs=WeatherLocalDriving&y=12 from that spin it's lookin good By the way the spelling of the town is Atsion, near Berlin NJ Any other "overnighters" lookin to check out the Jersey Devil den?

Dave, please read Brian's(a.k.a. Suby Junkie) last post. It has two belts. If you do decide on doing the belt job, there are a few other items you would be well advised to change while you are in there. The EA82T in the Loyale is a somewhat different beast than your ol' reliable EA81 If you plan on keeping her, a FSM should be on your shopping list

Tom, good work, well told and hope others listen to your advise. Glad to see it's runnin as it should. If you ever tear it down, your jet sizes would be valuble to others using 32/36 DGs on EA82s along with your final FP. Are you planning on feeding it any warm air for the winter?

good reponces all, you might want to read this post also http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=5420 The nuetral safty circuit is the culprit, I bet

Dave good suggs so far. Couple other items to check. The spade connector where the main fusible link connects (closest to the strut tower or furthest from the bat) heat can melt plastic around it and make the female loose it's tension) Replacement links are available from Subaru BTW. New one with fresh female connectors are better than boneyard models IMHO Another source of problems is with the main connector to the ignition switch. Under the trim panel beneith the st. col is a pink connector, check it for signs of heat fatige and melting. hope this helps

Well thanks for the compl's guys, what I don't have? - money Being semi employed has it's advantages and it's dis... if ya catch my drift. Mick, good eye there mate, they are XT6 units, one of which I fried, first one I've ever heard gone toast. Rob, thanks and an under drive pulley would be dachit - EA82 harmonic damper (crank pully) is a two piece affair, tuff turnin' it. Make a new one or turn it under the outer section, I'll look into it. Larger pulley for the alt.? Well right now the alt output does not "kick in" untill about 1000 RPM (alt rot) barely idle speed. I believe the problem with the factory alt is in the "in rush" current when running larger lights ect (my case anyhow) This in rush current takes out the main diodes and or will fry the VR (have seen both along with the charging light diodes go toast) Brian, School shop class? How bout "derelict's dungeon" Remember guys I have been a "scrounge hound" for going on half century. Most of the "stuff" you see is a direct result. Moose the lathe in the backround is a geared head Clausing Colchester. Smaller one behind it is an Atlas. Le Blonds - isn't that who holds the umbrellas on the starting grid?? Or are they La Brunettes Looks like the consensus is "let the shop handle them."

Yes, Honda, (Subaru master) please do tell us of this fuse? BTW it is a fusible link - the same that controls the ECU -disconnect and crank?? The ECU is at this point powerless and will not open the injector, crank till the cows come home - it will still have pressure. 40 to 70 psi?? Honda's maybe, Bosch CIS yes, on this car - come on Master - it's only 21 psi, after sitting the residual pressure may be only 15. Squirt everywhere - ??? The only pressure is acumulated in the dampers and is on the order of milliliters not gallons or ounces. Crawl under the car find the fuel pump and try to pull the connector apart, then start the car this will de pressurize it. please excuse the sarcasm, I have not had my medication yet today

gotta luv those post interlopers -j/k, j/k boyz Lukr, another thing that could be causing the low MPG is the fuel pressure you are feeding it could be too high and is causing it to "dump" (pass fuel past the float needle valve and seat) Might want to pull a plug or two and have a look. How did you handle the return line to the tank? Have you considered a FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) Hope Tom will share what his final setting was.

then add this she'll spin up right proper then

the oil pressure sending unit is beside the oil filter check the wire to it, mine recently got caught in the pulley beside it and pulled loose. ALSO these sending units are notorious for going toast, gauges on rare occasion go bad, check the wire to the sending unit. Ground it and see what the gauge does - should peg to the highest reading. You will be told to put a mechanical gauge on to be sure. HTH

there is pressure stored in the system, remove the clamp, wrap a rag around the hose to filter junction then twist and yank - it will squirt a bit of fuel - No open flames please.

Jimbo this is a fairly common problem After checking ALL battery cable connections and their terminals. Usually it's the contacts in the ignition switch not passing enough current to close the starter solenoid. You can check this by putting a test light on the small spade terminal on top of the starter - turn key to start if light lights dimly - thats the problem I could be a problem in the neutral start circuit but it's rare. The test light will not light at all if this is the case. Two simple fixes involve a relay controlled by the ignition switch or the "never fail" button - I have used both

After toasting multiple alternators in my Subes, I've taken to make an attempt at repairing them. (basics only - diodes, volt reg, bushes) My question is Should I write up an article for the repair manual or would it basiclly be a waste of time as most just take them to a repair shop or grab a boneyard model? Here is the work bench and test rig I use when doing repairs. At this point I'm playing mix and match using good VRs and brush sets in shells with good diodes and windings. ( I know a lot of us use our extra seats for bench chairs)

Keith, I'm sorry that connection will only show + current flow. The correct point is between the main wire feed from the fusible link box and the battery. This will show discharge and charge as the case may be. BTW The alt. output goes to the fusible link box and then from there to the battery through this wire. Hope this helps

Red, email me - I'll look up the TPS test for a flap type in my FSM Code 12 is the starter switch?? Here is a code chart http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Hope this helps?

Red, the TPS is different on the hot wire MAF'd cars and the vane style, since you say you saw it change resistance then I'm assuming you have an 87 or newer hot wire car. Symtoms, as you describe would run ruff, and may be in the limp home mode, very rich. Do a plug cut to see or fit an A/F ratio gauge to see if it ever goes into closed loop. You may have some wiring knackered if you see resistance change at the TPS and not at the ECU (of course the wiring to the check connector you used could also be bad.) Have you checked the FI coolant sensor, it is a major player in the equation. It gets corroded from sitting in a vertical position and having it's boot get heat baked and cracked. The TPS is one of the sensors the ECU watches and uses for shifting to the full rich map (when it thinks the engine is under a positive intake manifold condition i.e. boost) So if the signal is not making trip to the ECU you could be asking for trouble in the form of detonation. The TPS also houses the "idle switch" BTW Hope this helps

Tom do a plug cut and see where the mixture is the choke gets any "key on" hot wire (not from the coil) full battery voltage I ran all my PCV hoses to a common filter to keep any blow by out of my intake (can be seen below just to the left of the KNN element) Here is one way to solve the air filter problem, with no hood "holin' ". It has lots of surface area (The Suby engineers gave them this much - would think the Weber would need the same amount if not more?) Hope this helps

Andy, the devise you picture is what I said it was. It is the fast idle solenoid and not a sensor. It increses the idle when the AC is on to compensate for the compressor drag. Wire it with which every wireing harness you are using or, if you are not using AC -fe getaboutit. One wire to ground the other gets battery voltage when the AC is in op. (Sorry for the corn fussion, maybe you thought I ment aux air valve (AAV). The devise you are talking about is better called "fast idle solenoid".) As for the TPS, as I mentioned they are different for vane style MAF's and hot wire. No mention of the system. Must match the system to the TPS and the idle switch. HTH

The TT units basicly need three main wires for operation 1) a constant hot (battery voltage) wire 2) a connection after the ignition switch to the wire that powers the ECU and ignition system 3) a good ground No mention of the manufacturer but some have a "safety circuit" connected to the parking brake dash light (if the brake is released the TT shuts the car down) To find the mentioned three important wires. drop the trim panel under the st. col. (the one for getting a look at the ECU) There you will find a bundle of wires coming from the col. They meet in a large black plug. The wires are large gage wires. #1 from above is the white wire #2 from above is the blue wire entering the connector from the body harness #3 is found buy using any body mounted bolt (don't be confused by a screw into plastic) - there is a good one by the hood release handle. When splicing into these wires I like to use the strip, twist, solder method shown here Hope this helps, there is no available "plug and play" adapter that I know of, sorry.

Tom how did you handle the fuel return. Sounds like it may be running lean now. Maybe not enough "go juice" Drive her gently with the surge and then yank a plug or two

Marnix sent one to I think Boz - seems some of the Euro models came with them. Might try him.

William, does the adapter have a thermostat? Where you live this may not be an issue, but I am sure you realize the importance of getting the oil to a temp about 215 F so volatiles and condensation are "boiled" out. I have a digital lab thermometer with a thermocouple in the oil pan, I am amazed at how fast the oil comes up to temp on our turbo cars, I feel during the summer months the cooler is a good idea. My turbo's oil runs at 260 - 270 deg F in my climate (W PA)

Andy, on the mechanical end, make sure you snag the dogbone (pitching stopper) from the XT. on the electrical, I have been trying to help Tex with his conversion. You do not say what year, fuel system (flapper door or Hot wire MAF) and if the XT donor is a turbo. The TPS is a different and may not (as in Tex's case) swap. If you have a multimeter, you can check the GL's TPS and if the XT's is the same FI system rewire to match. There may be a separate plug for the idle switch which is incoporated in the TPS. I am not aware of the brass "sensor" you sure it's not a aux air solenoid for when the AC is in op? I know of no "sensor" in this area aside from the TPS