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one good choice has been Redline 75-90 NS I have it in a couple of my cars (87 5 spped, 86 Brat) and the shifting very nice. I got mine on line from Summit Racing. I have not seen it available on shelves anywhere.

The CC units all have a brake pedal activated switch to disable the CC when the brakes are applied. I have noticed this switch set very close to being ON all the time. Thus rendering the CC inoperative. Please check it's operation and the gap between it and the pedal. hope this helps

Todd, I have the Nippon in my Brat, now this is an 86 Brat I don't know if the el dist system you have is the same as you mention a 79 Nippon and Hitachi system. I just took a look and here is the skinny the dist. has two wires leading to it only. One black and white which goes to the coil + also attached on this post is the igniton battery voltage feed (your 78 may have a ballast resistor?) This feeds ignition voltage to the coil and the dist. when the ignition sw. is in the run or crank to start pos. The other is a yellow wire which goes to the negative side of the coil (my Brat is a GL so also on this post is the yellow wire from the dash, this wire feeds the signal to the tach) Sorry I do not have a FSM for your car, Moosens may, you could email him directly.

Chris, one place oil can come from in the location you describe is the crankcase vent hose located in the center rear of the block. This hose is very prone to heat bake and as a consequence cracking at the fitting. Oil vapor blowby could cause this. I would change the PCV valve (please note, recent reports using aftermarket PCV valves on our turbo cars have caused problems, . For the cost, a genuine Subaru part is suggested) Please check this hose for cracks where it connects to the block fitting. Hope this helps

FYI Nitrous itself is not[/] combustible, you must add more fuel when you inject it. from the NE website "Q. Why does my engine need more fuel while on the bottle? A. The fuel, or gasoline, is the source of the additional horsepower. The nitrous' job is to provide the oxygen to allow the fuel to be burned." Just keep this in mind if you decide to DIY a lean engine is not a happy engine NE website referenced http://www.nitrousexpress.com/welcome.htm

thanks Al, I bow to your expertise , this shows me the A/F ratio meter I use is basically an average of the exhaust 02 content being a result of the on/off toggling of the 02 sensor output, as you have purposed since the first post. I guess I now question, is it better to know your average 02 content than to have no clue (other than doing a plug cut) about the relative mixture in the combustion chamber? Will you argue that 90 % of our problems lie not in the fine line a wideband will give us, but in a general window of mixture in the combustion process. In other words is the obsevation of an A/f ratio meter during daily driving worthless? Thanks again for the research and the links, I sit corrected.

Tom for some reason unbeknownst. it sounds like you lost "fire in the hole" Now the HiCrappy" should have had an electric choke and an anti diesel solenoid "hot "wire" (I.e. a wire that goes "hot" to battery voltage when the key is in the run position) Could either of these come to ground while the install was in progress with the key on? They may have been wired to the "ignition fuse" and it went "poof" I don't know how this beast is wired (it is one of the few EA82 Brats I know of) Check to see if you have +12 V on one of the coil primary wires when the key is in the run position.

I disagree with this statement "toggle their output to an OFF/ON state when the level of oxygen attains or falls below a certain threshold. " as I did in the previous post and will set about experimenting to prove the 02 sensor's output is varriable and not an on/off toggle as you purpose. I do not think you have seen the output on a scope of an 02 sensor connected properly to a vehicle that does not have feedback control. The reading I have done, does not support your on/off theory. I believe you are confussing the ECU's reaction to the high low voltage output as a digital signal from the 02 sensor.

Tom is right on, check that you connected a vacuum line to the white cannister on the shelf behind the pass sturt tower and that the check valve (needed with turbos especially) is working. The "surge" can be many things, could be as simple as a need for higher octane gas - knock sensor could be retarding/andvancing the ig timing trying to stop the pre ignition. May want to fit a boost gage to watch and see if the intake manifold pressure is oscillating in time with the surge - weak waste gate spring.

Ron please reread what you just said "You can increase pulse time by turning up the fuel pressure. This will richen up the mixture." Don't you mean increase the flow rate? The ECU will "tick tock" faster I believe with a higher fuel pressure or larger injectors. This is only when it is not thinikng the engine is on boost. (hot wire MAF info) My observations have been that the ECU does NOT know the engine is at a positive intake manifold pressure. (The pressure switch only lights the dash light, I've had it unpluged). It goes into it's full rich map, ignoring the 02 sensor, when certain parameters are met. Engine temp, RPM, TPS reading and vehicle speed are involved. Please tell me if you know different from my empirical observations

Good point, but I think the housings will take it, they may be made of pot metal

Andy, please spend your money on an A/F ratio gauge (meter). Then, if you see a lean condition at the boost you are running, think about larger poundage injectors. I run 14 -15 psi daily and have never seen a remotely lean condition when on boost. Always very rich (on twin meters I have currently connected for calibration purposes). Subarus are way over engineered in many aspects of performance. Most notably the fuel delivery system. Just one man's real life experience.

This man has his ducks in a row, no Duckams Adnoids but the real stuff-- Castorl GTX. Congrats Toybuilder. you do do some fine work. Thanks for the pict, and the info on retorque.

I agree on the clear. With repect to the wiring. I was rather shocked at the small wire gage used by Subaru. My guess it is 18 AWG or smaller? This is fine for say 55 watt lamps (A = W/V in dc) so 55w = 4.6 Amps now say you upgrade to 100 watt lamps 100w = 8.3 Amps. This is close to the max for 18 AWG THHN Some line loss will occure and to get the best light output the voltage at the lamps should be full battery voltage (app13.8 Vdc when running) There is a company selling a relay powered upgrade for the head lamps. Wires to the existing plug and has a plug for the lamp. Add a fused hot wire to the battery and you are all set. Sorry the company name eludes me, might try a Googleism or ask on the New Gen board, that is where I read about it first. Hope this helps some??

Is anyone thinking they are brave enough to try camping? from http://www.state.nj.us/dep/parksandforests/parks/wharton.html Here is a bit of copy Wharton State Forest is the largest single tract of land within the New Jersey State Park System. (and home of the fabled "Jersey Devil .ed) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Camping Atsion campsites: 50 tent and trailer sites with fire rings and picnic tables. Potable water, flush toilets and showers are within walking distance. Ground fires are not permitted during the day. Trailer sanitary station open March 1 through November 30. Campsites open April 1 through December 31. Fees. Wilderness campsites: (group, individual, and family) Bodine Field, Hawkins Bridge, Batona Campsite, Mullica River Wilderness Campsite, and Goshen Pond have hand pumps for water and pit toilets. Buttonwood Hill and Lower Forge sites have no water. Mullica River and Lower Forge are wilderness sites, access by hiking, canoeing or by horseback; motor vehicles are not permitted. All other areas are accessible by motor vehicles. Ground fires not permitted during the day. Campsite capacities vary from 50-250 persons. Fees. Cabins: Six furnished cabins with screened porch, fireplace, refrigerator, hot and cold running water; bathroom with toilet and shower; 2 bunks. Accommodates 4 people. Two cabins are designed for people with disabilities and each accommodates 6 people. One cabin accommodates 8 people. Cabins are located on Atsion Lake. Open April 1 through October 31. Fees.

Pearl, this has been mentioned recently and the over all consensus is you get what you pay for. The best is genuine Subaru, but they are around 70 clams, You can listen to your wallet but if my, or my loved ones, life were on the line - I'd go Subaru in this catogory. The aftermarket performance suppliers are focusing more and more on the newer (as in WRX/Legacy) line and have kind of left us old timers in their wake so to speak. Here is a Canadian company which deals some real nice brake impovement products (thanks to Mike aka Hodakarider) https://www.kvrperformance.com/world/world.html Don't forget to turn the piston while pushing.

Shanon, your wagon with the lever in one of the 4wd positions is only two(2) wheel drive, the front and rear open diffs only give power to the wheel with the LEAST traction. With the LSD and the center diff locked you will have three (3) wheel drive. Plus in some nasty situations where the car may get out of hand before you can grab and shift the lever the FT4wd may keep you out of trouble. Plus who wouldn't want a ten (10) speed in their car (The RX tranny can be shifted hi/lo/hi at any time, your wagon can not go into low at any appreciable speed.) Note the low range is not as low as yours (numerically). Please email me if your decide to sell the set up rather than instal it. Jack, Sfly is no doubt talking about welding the spider gears in the rear diff, turning it into a permantly locked diff - not a good choice if you want to drive it on dry paved roads, in my op.

Tex, how did you solve the TPS problem, this could be related. Do you have any gauges on this radical ride? I do not know what you mean when you say "idle sensor" Do you by chance mean "idle switch"?

it's not a GL10 then just a GL?? Had me goin ya did. Best bet - email Kerry at Roobuilders contact through CCR. he knows these carbs better than any one I know. May be a unrelated to the carb emission devise (Leaking egr valve or thermoswitch?) I believe he is in Denver so he knows altit comp also.

Excuse me Brian but your statement "Diff Locks only come on Full Time 4WD 5 speed Transmissions" I belive the automatic (4EAT) FT4wd also had diff lock switches Please correct me if I am all wet.

GD, just did this to one of my 86 Brats The connectors are to the inside of the vehicle and above the fuse box. Pull the trim panel down. The connectors are green and blue. On mine I separated the green to green and replaced one with the proper match blue. She be out, and yes, gb is correct it is triggered by a mileage timer. Hope this helps

wait now wait, Khaloum says 87 GL10 ? I have never seen an 87 GL10 with a carb. This is one for the books if it is a GL10 Now that said (please note GD) all 87 carbed 4x4s had non feedback carbs as far as I know (CA models may differ) There is no ECU and no 02 sensor. They pass emissions with smoke and mirrors I guess. So Khal if you find no 02 then there is no ECU Your idle problem many be a bad carb setting or possibly one of the smoke and mirrors mentioned or a vacuum line cracked and broken Please show us a picture of this "carbed" GL10

GD, it not real but it's not photoshop either, Trogdor saw it in person Suppose to be a 50 cal. patterned after the jeep in the TV show of long ago "Rat Patrol"

I have this set up for bout two years

here aare a few ideas for you when you put it back together check the hose coming from the middle back of the block - it loves to do what Red lance says (as they all do)