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cold engine: fuel injection = rich lotta gas on the bare cyl walls Think I'd unplug the injectors or fuel pump to prevent this.

thanks again for the replies I found the "Lets see those Brats" post and the strip appears on many Gen 1's making me think it was a dealer option. Just need the small part for the pass front fender. I have the fiberglass "hi topper" but like the look of the low rider. The carpet in the bead is so nice I may keep the cap on.

Thanks for the reply, Rob, the Poop link is great!! I will be using him. The strip is in this picture I'm missing the small section for the pass front fender Think may make my mind up, as finding this material may prove impossible The cap can be painted to match but the cost and if I would ever use it is the question

My 78 is still at the body shop long story longer.. shop had to move... ran out of cash........ Anywayz I want to know if the rub strip down the side at waste level I guess to prevent door dings ect. is factory Should I leave it (it's pop rivoted on) or remove it? Should I get the low rider "Gem Top" pained or not waste the money. I've seen gen II "Brat" decals but are ther good gen I sets available yet? Thanks for the help and suggs, diggin' getting into gen 1. Leave the Legacys and OhBee's behind.

OB, good point on the fuel gauge wiring, low fuel light wiring there also.... Mice might like the space?? I have a RemStar** and a real mech. "steth Oh scope" I'll use them to listen for injector click. Cougar - thanks, always a pleasure reading from you and your knowledge/resources rank right up there with the best there is. Yes, I've cranked it for several minutes (at intervals of 30 sec or so). If it comes down to it, I will get at the ECU and do some pin back probe testing. Thanks again for the support and suggs. ** Rem Star As a side note, the SS ("Ruby" seen in the background on the above front yard picture) Had been sitting for about 8 mo. She fired right up and has brakes!!!^^ Now I need to get it registered and inspected and I'll have wheels again!!! ^^ 4 of my cars, including the OB, have no brakes from sitting.

Thanks OB99W, was hoping you'd chime in. Will do on the fuel pump wiring .. if I see no flow at the filter, as I said I can hear it running after I crank it. My bet is ... as you sugg.... the injectors are not firing (no noid... shame on me) Thus the question on the cam sensor failing from sitting. Maybe just a low fuel problem. Gonna add another 5 gallon to see. Maybe some nefarious creature came and stole all the gas while I was away??

Will, I will report back on the fuel flow findings as for: " Just out of curiosity... what's the millage on the body/motor, 5spd?..." ~ 200 kmi lots of body taken buy the tinworm automatic with bad VSS no. 2 drive gear Was found in boneyard dead... should have left her that way. Boneyard shot My upper parking lot shot

Thanks for the quick replys guys Gary: I will check for codes (ghosts will be erased and tried again) Will pull a plug or two but am sure they are dry. Will: I will pull a line of the fuel filter outlet and crank some into a jar. The gas gauge issue is highlighted by the fact the low fuel light does not come on and it has in the past so I does work. Had around 1/4 tank when I left (parked it). It has sat in the past I'm dubious of the coroded fuel lines because all my 8 or so running Subarus sit for long periods. to wit: I have a couple 1978 Brats, one of which was sitting next to the OB in question. Had been sitting for well over a year (~18 mo.s). Yep, she fired right up and I drove her to my work station in the lower lot (brakes need work..ah duh??) Guess I'm just not cut out for these fancy new toys. "Ave-all-right folks, so whadya give ferdispiece" underd udered do I hear underfity ...."

My Oh Bee had been running fine. I did the conv. to the 2.2 in the spring no issues, ran great. Parked it and left for a couple of months down south. Came home, went to move her. Bat was dead so I changed it to a charged one. Then reset the anti-theft system. No problems. Factoids: 1) Cranks like normal just no fire in the hole. 2) Runs if I shoot starting fluid to it. 3) All grounds have been checked as have all fuses. 4) The connections to the cam & crank sensors and wiring are fine. No signs of mice or other problems. 5) Added 2 gallons of fresh gas. No difference BUT 6) The dash warning lights all work but the gas gauge does not seem to be. 7) I can hear the fuel pump for a second or two after cranking, as it should. 8) Fuel filter is brand new. 9) Checked all major hoses for vacuum leaks or chew marks - all is normal and tight. Questions: 1) Will my scanning tool show a problem code if it has not run? I suspect ghost codes will appear. 2) Is there a relationship between the dash gauges and say the fuel injectors wiring wise. Remeber runs if I shoot the juice to her. 3) Ever heard of a cam sensor just failing while sitting? 4) Anybody want a cheap Outback?, I'll throw in a Legacy GT wagon for parts. Call it a BOGO if you will.

I read replacing the plugs on this is a bit of a b....h Has anyone paid a dealer to do it? I need an approx. cost of said job. At 75 kmi. I think I'm due. Thanks for any help.

The picture is from a 97 Leg so your should be very close to it behind the rear seat pass side under the carpet you will see an oval cover. Remove it and the top of the pictured unit will be exposed. Remove the hoses (marking them for proper replacement. Remove the screws and gently prize the unit out. A pencil eraser works well to clean the contact swipe. I'm sorry I do not have the part number for the reostat board. Hope this helps.

Hi Kit, Some people would be able to help if they knew what car you have. Here is a picture to maybe help refresh your memory This is from a Legacy

be nice to know what "your car" is EJ22 EJ25?? If so, my guess is a broken timing belt.

can you spell s-p-u-d g-u-n ??

Check for spark at the spark plug end of the wire. Sounds like the spark NRG is not making the trip through the dist. cap. WAGs wrong rotor to cap missing contact button in dist rotor screw MIA My guess is you have no access to a timing light. This would be a great help in tracking the spark demon down.

I set this up using garden tractor plows and a winch. I used a rear tow hitch frame mount unit from a pick'em up truck for the main frame. It attaches to the front tow loops and pivots there.

Nipper, your thoughts on this. Any chance of it being in two gears at once? 1st and 3rd come to mind. Let the clutch out BANG goes the main shaft.

as msmith says the CC control is above the starter they may havs dislodged it's cover or the vacuum line to it. You will see a cable heading to this CC control from the throttle control on the intake manifold.

my most esteem pleasure Sir Keltik. "Porcupine73" is to be thanked for the pictures. I'm sure you now know the devise the oil filter mounts to is for the oil cooler. Does yours have the neat slide door in the undertray splash guard? Sure makes changing oil easier. Just had to do the pass side front 02 sensor. Very easy, 15 min max. After cracking it loose, it unscewed by hand. Whine?? No - But we are only at 75 Kmi. (120,000 KM) Please check the front of the engine maybe with a stethoscope, as it may be the ugly head of timing chain tensioners. (see linked to post) Or does it sound like it's from the tranny? We love our VDC.

Nip, Delta is offering his "Deltacam" calender, I believe. Not the Subie one you paid for from our Guru. Maybe his one week ban will get him up to speed on these.

This could turn into a great thread. I just did the exact swap last summer. Remove the battery and as Gary said put the AC comp there (lines get mushed) it stays better if bundjie corded. Remove rad (separate fan plugs from under side, make note to reconnect) Remove the black charcoal canister and bracket (front pass side of engine) PS pump needs the bracket swapped as does the AC SWAP the flex plate!! (Don't ask why it's in caps) The lower driver's side engine to tranny stud/nut is not fun. Very tight in space and torque. I use a flex socket and extensions from below. Pass side (lower) can be reached from up above after the air box and lines are removed. Mark or photo the fuel lines (filter area by master cyl.) Separating the engine tranny takes patience and some sharp tools (screw drives to pry them apart) One trick is to remove the lower studs -double nut unscrew the studs) There are two dowl pins half way down. Remove dog bone (pitch stopper) at the tranny. Jack the transmission up slightly keep it there while the engine is removed. The only way I have ever had complete success with the exhaust bolts is to heat them cherry red with a ox-cetelene torch. I'm sure others will have more.

That being said and correct your 88 should be a fuel inected model, a SPFI to be specific. Therefore the plug may be different but the dist is the same. Hope we helped?

Phiz, well done lad, you have this "photo shoot" stuff down-- way down Most excellent shots!! And thanks for the consideration to you and Brian in reference to keeping the size small enough to keep it on my monitor.

Gad Sir, you DO nice work!!! Well done!!

Get it on Porc!!! You are the cat's meow when it comes to stepping up to the "here's the hot skinny" plate. Rig: As you can see the clutch switch need to be closed to allow the "starter interlock relay" to engage, thus providing power to the starter solenoid. This interlock relay may be your problem or the switch. Shorting the switch will take it out of the loop. (Thanks Porc, I have the same issue with my 94)