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Everything posted by Skip
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Vintage Subaru Parts For Sale Cheap
Skip replied to CFELTD's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Gentleman John says "I work for a Subaru dealer in Lincolnshire UK." I would bet there are not many Subaru dealers in Lincolnshire. Pop on over and have a look about. -
listen to the Turbone he is da man when it comes to these Also I had a 87 GL-10 digidash do that, it turned out to be a bad ground for the dash components. The ground (get this) is under the pass side front intake manifold bolt.
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one switch may be for the cruise control. the other the starter inhibitor Both switches go "closed" when the clutch pedal is depressed. As a test, take the connector off the switch and short the contacts with a paper clip (better yet a short piece of wire with the ends stripped. See if this allows the car to crank. If not you may have other issues starter contacts corroded bat cables/connections ig switch going south ect. Hope this helps.
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Hey Gar, I hear you. I think we leave these two guys on their own. They don't seem to need/want our help. Good luck fellas.
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RMVR, being this is an XT they do have problems with wiring under the carpet. Don't know why this would cause this but might be worth looking at seeings how it does happen. Here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85671 and here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67331&page=4&highlight=injector+trunk Good reading for XT owners at any rate ugly!! indeed
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Your keyless entry system should be the "Code alarm" system. The remote for it looks like this Here is a place to read up on it and how to program a remote (Ebay has them (remotes) most of the time) http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm I also vote for rig wire or a wire tie holder. If it wasn't snowing buckets I go out and get a shot of my black box and how it's mounted.
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will this work, DIY shadetree fuel pressure guage..
Skip replied to Frank B's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My method is also "shadetree" but has worked for many miles I used a electronic oil pressure gauge and sender in a similar "T" config.. This let me mount the gauge in the cockpit with no worries of fuel intrusion. The diaphragm in the sender is made for gas /oil mixes (i.e. diluted oil) and did not suffer degradation. P.S. if you have not yet removed the gauge from the regulator good luck, they are locktited in and are there to stay. -
Snow worries mate, only had to shovel a bit. Hope this helps, it is a pulley from an EJ25 I could only take the cold so long and could not locate the EJ22 model. I will venture back in hopes of finding it after me toe toes warm abit. The drill bits were a nice fit (both were 0.45") (stood nice and plumb) and let me get the dia of the hole centers. The depth of the pulley is to where the holes bottom out. I WILL find the other pulley. (why would anyone keep a pulley with the center bore bored 150 over?)