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Have your heater vent controls been doing anything funny? The vacuum source for the 4wd shifting and the heater vent control come from the white plastic cylinder on the shelf behind the pass. side strut tower. Might want to look there first if the heater outputs are stuck in defrost.

Glenn, I understand the salt wash/rust issue. I live in the salt belt down here. Rusted lines in themselves do not light the light. I am attempting to see why the holes would cause the light to come on. There may be some sensor than monitors flow rate of purged vapors or a sensor to show the intgrity of the plumbing, these I have not heard of. I was trying to find a componet that, if bad, would cause the ECU to light the light. Then we can see about the fooling of said sensor IF it needs fooled or possibly just replaced. Thus the P0XXXX code.

It is a total guess not knowing what car/year/fuel system could be a rev sensor (control unit) could be a relay could be?? The system most prevelent is a relay controled by the ignition switch. The ground being provided by the ECU You say "control unit", I don't think you have an ECU. ????? Why do so many people these days think we know what car their working on??

Thanks Glenn, that helps. The problem that the ECU would see and light the light could be as simple as the purge control solenoid. This is easy to replace. Changing it, if it's the problem, would allow the ECU code to be cleared and the light would stay out. If would help narrow it down if you knew the code. Some auto parts places down here read them for free.

Sorry G, again my mistake. I used your description "About the size and shape of a screwdriver handle, It will have 2 hoses, and a 2 prong electrical connector." This looked like it. I changed the picture to correct this. That hose you mention is to the PCV valve I believe, is that correct? I will get another picture to correct my second error here if I have the correct AAV, and then let you handle it if Bill replys... again sorry for the mis-information.

Correct Cougar thus me saying older radios. If the class A amplifers used have the NPN power transistors wired with an emitter leg tied to the power supply, the left and right channels would have a common terminal. Thus the Subaru wiring can be used.

Will, I would assume so, I seem to remember someone's "coming apart at the seems"

Major picture error My mistake.

Simple question Simple answer nope nope http://www.magnecor.com/

Okay here goes, had to clear quite a bit of the whitechit off the hood to get it open, please ignore the grime. This is the best shot I could get of the area you point out. IF the hose in question is the hose pointed out here... Yes it is plumbed as GD explains. This Brat has been in use for several years like this in all forms of weather. Hope this helps, my hands are freezing.

I'll suit up and go out and get a shot of this area now. I hope it will help. Back in a few as it's cold and raining/sleeting outside.

I found this link while trying to help slideshow It may have been posted before, -> I missed it. This says Suzie Sammy but the 28 page manual is for the 32/36 DG series we use. Part layouts, tuning tips, jet use and explaination. The whole ball of wax. Weber Manual Be sure to Right click on "Download" and choose "save link target as" quite a download but if you have a question I'll bet you'll find an answer faster than waiting for GD or Big Jim. Atleast you will be able to ask an intelligent question to them. Go to post #28 for the new downloadable link!!

This might help Weber install Its on a Suzie but Here is another http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/...weber-all.html If you search for a poster named Cameron he had an excellent write on this also Hope this helps, you might take a look in the USRM, Ultimat Subaru Repair Manual (se link top of page)

sure would help knowing what engine/year you are working on. They all do best with NGK plugs The EJ series is very sensitive to the sparking plug wires OEM or Magecore K&N filters are generaly frowned upon. PCV valves and T-stats are also OEM only parts hope this helps I'm sure others will give their dose paysose

sorry Bill I do not mean to be rude but some of us folks don't get a chance to read every other post, posted by posters. Or remember for that matter as some of us have "senior monents" (speaking for myself here). Thus the more info one can give at the time of posting a "new" or different problem helps us help you..

Did they tell you the specific code? e.g. P0XXXX Very interesting test which I have never heard of but if smoke came out ...air can get in read vacuum leak ----> drivability issues You don't mention any. Sorry Glenn my response is as nebulous as the question is. These type problems can range from the gas cap loose or bad sealing to solenoids in the control system.

from this info and the fact the car is NOT 4wd it can be gleaned this car has an ECU and a feedback carb. If you eliminate the 02 you would also have to make some changes to the carb as the ECU would have no A/F reference voltage. A generic < 20 $ Bosch 02 sensor can be used. I am sorry I know not about the "rubber" hose to a cat?? Seems pretty hot for a rubber tube. We need GD or Gloyale to spell this one out. It could be the air injection tube to provide 02 to the cat to complete the unburned hydrocarbon combustion. A newer cat could be fitted eliminating this necessity.

I second Phizinza, the Forester is built on the Impreza chassis not the Legacy Size counts, but is the engine bay that much different ? Since Qman has done the 1.8 out -> 2.2 in swap that much is a given. Vis-A-Vis an EJ22 would be one candidate. Then fit is one thing, wiring is another and no mention if this car must have an IM sticker.

Snow worries Will The black ring in this shot of th harmonic damper, an extremely knackered damper at that

I have to agree with G If the pulley is "lockite"d on and a puller is used could the rubber isolation section of the damper be put at risk? The locktite mentioned here was in a post on the pulley coming loose and being put back on with the keyway a bit knackered. I agree will all who say it should not be that hard to get off as there is only about 0.500" of crank in the pulley hub. as seen here

excellent catch by Gloyale what he says is dead on. Bill here must have 871/2 model after the switch to the spider manifold Well done G!! Thanks Mike for the correction. IAC: Idle Air Control (newer terminology) AAV: Aux. Air Valve (old gen talk as per the FSM)

Reve, do you think he should shop for a bigger huffer or with the VF11 be enough? (I own three Legacy turbos and am working on the sme figure HP wise)

Hi Bill, would you care to enlighten us as to the car year fuel system state it was manuf. for this little help to us may in turn help us help you as you asked us for help

One thing to keep in mind here in reference to the words "common ground" Older radios the "common ground" was grounded as in to the chassis of the vehicle. Common ground wiring this way would damage many new head units. A common terminal (as we are speaking of here) may not cause the problem. One would need to check the wiring of the so called "negitive" leads to the two front and or the two rear speakers to see if continuity exists.

Steve, the first thing I see is no provision in the new engine for the lower starter bolt (just comparing your pictures) Second make sure the flex plate is the correct diameter. Third, minor issue.you and Todd should start your own post this one is 6+ pages deep