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did you use an OEM 02 sensor? Maybe check the 02 sensor plug. BTW the light you looked at is called the 02 monitor light With the running and warmed up, at idle you should see it flash in a random pattern. This indicates that the 02 sensor and the ECU are working together. For the cost (~ 20 bucks NAPA for a Bosch) a new one might be in order.

that's kewl, now it makes sense but you do have to lower the rear end (differenial) to lower the tank if it's 4wd?? I found all the hoses to be more of a chore. Since he does not grace us with what model it is, GL what? Brat, sedan, station wagon ..... I would say pulling the sender unit and looking through the hole would be my first line of attack. Then decide if the tank needs yanked.

Sumtin's wrong with this picture?? Lots and lots of hoses also.

all good info presslab would you or anyone else be so kind as to give reason for this canrage? A flailing driveshaft would be behind this section. and What caused the driveshaft front yoke to gernade?

with only 60 Kmi I do not think the above warnings are of consequence yet. Beautiful car, you'll love it. The issue of oil changes is a concern The timing chain (seen below thanks to Porupine73) and it's guides need good lubricant to maintain their integrity. DO heed Gary's warning in this respect.

Ray, I am to understand that by " My wifes 86 gl Hatch is having a hard time starting " You mean the engine is not turning over or "cranking" as some call it. My FSM shows no clutch interupt switch on your model. You can look up the clutch pedal arm and see if there is a switch. There maybe a switch but it would be for the cruise control if you have it. First the simple items of all battery cable connection need addressed as clean and tight (including the cable to connector junctions). Your clutch pumping is not why it cranks after a few pumps, it's just the failure of this type that takes several turns of the ignition switch that results in the car cranking. The lack of cranking can be caused by several factors 1) starter contacts being worn 2) ignition switch start contacts being worn. You could 1) replace the starter 2) replace the starter contacts 3) introduce a "starter relay" which in many cases circumvents the problem for a long time 4) install a "never fail button" that by-passes the ignition switch (see #3 above) If the starter contacts are indeed the culprit eventualy the starter may fail. Hope this helps.

Mr Garrett sir, the problem is the solenoid valve that controls the vacuum to the EGR valve. The rubber vacuum line leads to this solenoid valve. Very common problem, many posts on different fixes. Many use a solenoid of the same type from a late 80's Honda or Toyota , some wire a 35 ohm resistor to "fake out" the ECU.

Okay, snow worries mate, that makes much more sense. If you have the good spark you said you have all these items are NA (Not Applicable) They are all needed to make a good spark. The rotor screw I mentioned can cause a no start. Connect the green connectors by the driver's side hood hinge. Turn the key to run, do not start it. Fuel pump should cycle. Use a timing light to check the ignition timing (20 deg BTDC)

I want to know how you "saw" it getting fuel? You have the "LED" distributor (Crank Angle Sensor), and you have a fuel injected model. (SPFI) I don't know how you "saw" the fuel? Sounds like you have spark. Was the rotor tight on the shaft, held on by small screw since it's a fuelie. My guess is fuel filter or pump or pump relay but you "saw the fuel?

Hi Leli, get Peter to show you how to start a new topic for your question.

I believe the "blend door" mentioned is for the EA82 series cars the EA81 this gentleman has, uses a coolant flow control valve to adjust the temp of the air coming from the heater ducts.

Caboo gets my vote You will no doubt have to change the plug as he says

if he did not wire in an ECU (Electronic (emission) Contro Unit) how can he have spark and fuel? Sir, please check the igintion timing. Connect the green connectors by your ECU and use a timing light to see if it's firing near 20 BTDC (Before Top Dead Center)

Thanks Frank, I get it now. They sell a product for doing this http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=FTRK&dept=12 I was thinking you meant the POR-15 rust preventive paint that I have on the shelf. http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=1&dept=1

WAG H20 trapped in the vapor separator (fuel filter "looking" devise under the hood in the area of the driver's side hood hinge -three lines to it) gas moves past it above freezing, below 32 deg F gas freezes and blocks the flow Replace the separator and add a couple cans of dry gas. Good time to replace the primary fuel filter also (under car on the "in" line of the fuel pump)

I thought I saw this detailed over on Legacy Central? Complete with picts and part #s??

How long would that take?? I cleaned these Turbowheels (shown on my Oh Bee) up by light hand sanding and a respray. I used plastic cups to "mask off" the round areas if the spokes and a larger one for the center.

So what have your ambient temps been?

MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure Baro - Barometric pressures If it was not connected or being fed the wrong info (hose off) it would light the CEL. I just used it as an example of one thing the codes might show.

The point I was working on was that possibly a sensor (Maybe the MAP baro sensor.which could show up as an error code) is causing your problem.

Nice camera, and more importantly nice work with it. Thank you so kindly sir for resizing the pictures before posting. It's way kewl to see some one helping with pictures and being so kewl as to not let them blow off the screen. Please do keep us updated. killer price on the Hellas I have them on all my drivers. The driving light style work great when wired to come on with the high beam. They fit in the Outback fog light hole perfectly

Whoa!! I knew POR-15 was some serious stuff but I didn't know it could be imersed in gasoline?? Does it say you can do this on the can/website?

we just made it to positive digits temp wise and I'm supposed to leave for FL in this (our travel trailer) in a couple days?????

ever use a scan tool to check for stored codes? Did you have to change/ modify any sensors when doing the swap?

Look under the dash where the wires come down from the steering col. There you will find a pink, yes pink connector. My bet is you will also see black or brown burn marks on it. Very common point of corrosion. Resitance and electrical current yield heat. The connector melts and all sorts of problems arise. Some people eliminate this connector and wire all the wires separatly. Good luck -