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Thanks Will, fitting them to the alloys was a bit more involved than just "bending the clips" The holes in the wheels were not even close. I have a Pug steel 14" here, I'll go look and see what size the center hole is.

Here is what you are looking for I put my knife in as a size reference

Believe us Dean If you have zero nada oil pressure the lump would let you know it. If you find the oil pressure sending unit (down by the oil filter. (make sure they don't sell you an oil pressure "switch") You can ground the wire to it and the gauge should peg. I'll try and get you a picture of an oil pressure sending unit.

very rare did someone adjust the valves before this happened?

Here are Subaru center caps fitted to Pug 15" alloys sorry for the Hi Jack Will

Pugwat center caps??? Come on Will Fit a set of Subaru center caps (look at Willy, he has these fitted to 15" Pug alloys I'll show you how I did it if you want) Then paint (powder coat) them black, add some trim rings and you will have the "Skipster Signature Series" look

Dean, First make sure the wire to the oil pressure gauge is still attached. Runs down the front of the engine to the sender. These gauges are known to be inaccurate. You may want to fit a "real" gauge. If you had 0 oil pressure your lifters would be "clacking" lke no tomorrow. If you want to read the code stored in the ECU try this link http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ The connectors you will need are under the hood by the driver's side hinge

I forgot to mention Thank you very much for the pict resize. Much better now. I have a complete 87 GL-10 shell here same color interior You are welcome to any / all of it you want.

You might want to look at the tire size again They look like 13" wheels and that size is what came on the car. 14" wheels are chicken lips and are normaly in an alloy config (although they could be Peugeot steelies)

Have you checked the front diff fluid level? May be the seal between the diff and tranny is toast and the ATF is migrating to the diff. Did you pull the engine to do the head gaskets? If so maybe the torque converter was not seated and the hydraulic pump is now knackered.

IF it had LSD he probably sold it for more Corona.

won't that "Y" pipe have a cat on it? Boneyards will not sell used cats legally

Actually Mr. Bhien makes it more difficult than it really is. Follow the wiring from the turn signal and you will find it up by the parking light that I converted to a turn signal. It was a simple splice at that point, no "3 foot of wire" needed. I also changed the lamp to an amber colored one, and left the small corner marker as the "parking light"

I thought all 88/89 GL-10s had a rear sway bar? It came with a 4EAT tranny so the rear diff would need changed when he swapped to a 5sp wouldn't it?

Will, nice score on the GL-10 The rads in these are prone to exterior delamination of the cooling fins Overheat = head gaskets going POOF Looks like it might still have rump roast (Air Suspension System) pssst resize your pictures so they don't blow off the screen

piece of cake, mate

The KC HiLighters are mounted to aluminum plates I fabricated to replace the turn signal housings The turn signals are rewired to the white side lights beside the head lights. Makes it a bit safer as the turn signals can now been seen from the side better than before.

"so your saying use a tube to get a ventury effect on top of the carb and listen? Then set both to sound the same? I guess use two pipes, one on each ear?" Precisely, I only use one tube or a Unisync (air flow measuring device) Just listen to one and compare it to the other. Loosen the linkage that connects the carbies before doing this balance job - but you knew that.

put some hi test gas in it and see if it helps That will rule out/in predetonation due to carbon build up or advance ig timing.

Under the "surfboard" plastic there is a steel tube I drilled and tapped it to mount these on my 87 GL

sounds like it may need a good "burbing" many posts on how to do it. basics are get the front up on ramps let it run from cold with cap off watch for burping taking place at filler neck (keep drip pan under rad)

Kewl and you're welcome for trying to make it so you would understand it. Well then why the questions?? Wait now wait you just said I have lost my touch at explaining things I give up ask Cougar. How can you be sure if you haven't tested it? I give up ask Cougar.

Here is your second diagram with the missing notations (hope you don't mind me pirating your schematic) Comparing this to your first diagram you should now see the "L" terminal gets the wire (W/R) from the dash lights the "S" terminal (W) gets +12 V all the time as does the heavy W wire connected to the "B" terminal Let it also be seen what Cougar warned about both white wires are always hot. Either wire to ground will blow the fusible link #2.

"So you are saying the output from the W/R wire is feeding 12V. When it malfunctions it then creates a ground and illuminates the dash lights?" That pretty much sums it up. I don't like the "when it malfuctions" part. When there is no output on the L terminal (W/R) wire be it that the engine isn't running or the alt output has "ceased to be" then the ground appears and the lites all light. "So with my hacked up wiring, i should be able to take the original W/R wire (which right now has been cut) and if I ground that, all my warning indicators should light up??" Yep, if it is connected as shown in your second diagram that should be the case, mate If the lamps are there and good that is. (DO not ground the part of the wire connected to the alt!!)

Mr. Easterly sir, Your engine is a fairly well tuned piece of kit right out of the factory. All engines benefit from a cooler (denser) air charge as it contains more of the active ingredient 02. If you want to modify this tuned intake system please see the Nabisco boyz. They do this all the time and what you get here will pale in comparison to what they have tried. Happy and smooth running New Year